trailering with tilt lock lever

ssobol

Active member
My CD-22 has a Honda BF90D engine on it. This engine has the tilt lock lever that holds the motor in the tilted up position. While this lock is for storing the motor when tilted up, the guy who owned the boat before me used the lever to hold the motor in the up position when trailering the boat.

My boat needs to have the motor tilted up to provide reasonable ground clearance when transporting the boat. Is the tilt lock lever sufficient support to hold the motor up when trailering the boat, or should I get a transom saver?

With my trailer it may be difficult to get a transom saver that fits and holds the motor up far enough due to the overhang of the hull past the end of the trailer and the angles involved.
 
There are many options. The previous owner is correct that the level is not made for the road, and stresses that it puts on the motor tilt lock.

I have used a Transomsaver, a block of wood, or one of the hard rubber blocks to both keep the engine up (clips over the lift arm on the center hydraulic cylinder) These are called "M-Y Wedge" Be sure that it is out before you lower the motor!
 
thataway":3l4otx3g said:
...hard rubber blocks to both keep the engine up (clips over the lift arm on the center hydraulic cylinder) These are called "M-Y Wedge"
Them's the ticket, right there! I have one to keep the motor up, and two on the steering cylinder shafts to keep the motor straight while towing.

And like Doc said, don't forget to pull them before launching. It's just a bit difficult to steer if you don't. Yeah, been there, done that. :oops:
 
never heard of the M-Y wedge before. i have always towed with the tilt bracket down on my (last) 115 rude and current e-tech. I will definitely look into getting one of these now though.
 
I trailered with a ~1" dowel under my Yamaha F80 for the first 20 miles (motor gently tilted down onto a 12" length of the dowel), however the Yamaha dealer/service place I had trailered to said they didn't recommend that as it could damage the tilt cylinder somehow (I'm not sure how). I don't know if that's true or not, but they didn't have a Yamaha wedge to sell me, so there was no profit motive on their part anyway. I went ahead and bought an M-Y Wedge, which I've used ever since. It seems like a good product. I did slice an inch or so off the Wedge, just so my motor would not sit with the props sticking out quite so far aft.

Sunbeam
 
Sunbeam":1kdui7el said:
I trailered with a ~1" dowel under my Yamaha F80 for the first 20 miles (motor gently tilted down onto a 12" length of the dowel), however the Yamaha dealer/service place I had trailered to said they didn't recommend that as it could damage the tilt cylinder somehow (I'm not sure how). I don't know if that's true or not, but they didn't have a Yamaha wedge to sell me, so there was no profit motive on their part anyway. I went ahead and bought an M-Y Wedge, which I've used ever since. It seems like a good product. I did slice an inch or so off the Wedge, just so my motor would not sit with the props sticking out quite so far aft.

Sunbeam

Never heard of the "M-Y wedge" before. I have used a wooden block under the engine with it firmly down against the block. That hold them at about a 35 degree angle and the props are about 16 inches above the pavement. Give adequate clearance for curb cuts, driveways and man hole covers. I have never worried about the engines turning. Can't say that they have. Generally they are in the centered position. SleepyC is going in to the Yamaha mechanics this next week. I will ask about the towing blocked up.

Harvey
SleepyC:moon
 
hardee":6jhwygxu said:
Sunbeam":6jhwygxu said:
I have never worried about the engines turning. Can't say that they have. Generally they are in the centered position.

I don't see any tendency for my big engine to turn (Yamaha F80); however, the Honda 8 will turn if I don't lock it in position (side-to-side, not up-and-down; there is a built in lever that locks it from turning side-to-side). So far I trailer with that engine down (which they state is preferable), although there is not a ton of clearance between the skeg and the ground. OTOH, there is plenty for most places, and if I get into a situation with an especially high curb, etc. I think I could probably just tilt it up for that one spot, then re-lower it.
 
Big engines will turn--and should be trailered either with the blocks as described or hard over. If you center, and trailer, many of our interstates are like a torture chamber, and there will be leaking around the seals of the Helm hydraulic pump! Believe me---1st hand experience!
 
Bob is correct as usual. Folks wonder what the cd can take at sea. They can take Interstates with aplomb so the sea is easy. I haven't been shaken and stirred so hard before as on some California highways. I have taken to centring the ob and using a dock line to tie the cavitation plate securely between the tie down u bolts. The ram takes a beating on the road and it is good to take the tendency to move out of the motor.
 
I have a Suzuki 90 and after a previous thread here I bought the MY wedge. The web site said it would work and the directions said it would work. However, the instruction had a muddy photo and I can't make it work on my motor frame.

I've tied a block of wood and wedged that down, but on a bumpy road it's always hanging after any distance.

I've now gone to trailering at full till up. My reasoning is that the motor is better balanced on the transom, and the forces are just down, rather than a twisting action when the motor is only partially raised.

Am I missing something?

Chuck
 
thataway":93h0hnrb said:
Big engines will turn--and should be trailered either with the blocks as described or hard over. If you center, and trailer, many of our interstates are like a torture chamber, and there will be leaking around the seals of the Helm hydraulic pump! Believe me---1st hand experience!

Can I double-check that I'm understanding correctly? I sure don't want to damage my engine while trailering. So, I've never trailered my Yamaha without the M-Y Wedge (well, I did for the first 20 miles at slow speed, but never since). With the M-Y Wedge, the Yamaha exhibits no "desire" to turn that I can see, so am I good? Is it without the wedge that something additional needs to be done? Or do you mean I should have something else along with the M-Y Wedge?

(BTW, for my engine it's just the single Wedge on the central tilt cylinder; I don't know that there would be anyplace to put anything additional.)

Thanks for clarifying (especially if I missed something obvious :crook)
Sunbeam :hot
(Currently trailering)
 
Hi ,
I have always tow with the motor up and the locks in 10 years now no problem so far ( if I remember right the factory said that up with the locks in that, that was the balance point ).
Richard
 
Here is is my personal experience with the MY Wedge Scroll down to see my post at 9:58 PM. My forgetfulness cost me about $600 to replace both T/T cylinders on a pair of Suzi 115's on CAPTAIN'S CAT. I gave one to Dr. Bob for his Caracal and the other one to a Brat for a $10 Tip Jar contribution. Dr Bob is too smart to make the blunder I did, hope the other Brat (don't remember who) is too. Be careful and don't forget they are they are there or you will destroy a lot of hardware. A 2x4 would be safer! IMHO :lol:

Charlie
 
Actually the Wedge which Charlie gave me, eventually went to the next C dory--the 2006 22, with a 90 hp Honda. Maybe I knew I could not live without a C Dory when I sold Charlie "Thataway".

Yes, I have used wooden blocks in the past. The M-Y Wedge slips over the ram of the middle cylinder of the trailering tilt cylinder.

I have been told by a number of mechanics that the small tab is only a safety while working on the engine, and should not take the force of the engine weight while trailering. I have seen several which have broken when used this way. If you only trailer the boat a few miles to the ramp, most likely this will not be an issue. We trailered over 9,000 miles this year, and some years with the 25 we trailered more than that, over all types of roads.

As for the centering. I started off this summer with the Honda 90 centered. By the second night we noted hydraulic fluid on the console under the helm. Over all several ounces were forced out of the seals of the steering pump. We then placed the helm hard over and no more leakage problem. I do think that it was hard on the seals--there is a bit more "bump" as you turn the helm, but not enough that we have elected to rebuilt it yet.

There are M-Y wedges which go on the sides of the hydraulic cylinder which turns the engine--and these will keep the engine centered. Not sure if that answers your question SunBeam or not.

On the Caracal, it did come with a "Transom Saver" I have continued to use it. With the heavy rubber bungi cord which holds the transom saver in place, plus the design of the grip on the lower unit, the Suzuki does not seem to turn, this appears to be due to the design of the transom saver bracket on the lower unit.
 
Well I'm a little less happy with the M-Y Wedge this morning. I'm not sure how or why it happened (as it did fine on a ~3,000-mile tow this summer), but when I checked the trailer at my stop last night, I noticed that the motor was sitting lower than usual (i.e. less tilted up). It seemed stable, so I left it alone (was parked) until I could investigate this morning in daylight. (By the way, the M-Y Wedge is sort of a tall, U-shaped piece of rubber that "clips" over the trim cylinder, after which you lower the motor down onto it and pinch it in place.)

Daylight revealed this:

IMG_5535.jpg

IMG_5537.jpg

Somewhat ironic given this discussion/thread yesterday.

As you can see, the Wedge somehow became not clipped onto the trim cylinder, and is (was) now wedged in between the cylinder and the transom. I don't know if it slipped off, and thus was not in column and then deformed, or if it deformed and thus slipped, or what (?). The engine was trimmed down onto it in the same way as it was for my earlier long tow (trimmed down until you feel it resisting and see it "stop").

With a bit of work, I was able to get it out (without putting my fingers in there!). It's permanently deformed now:

IMG_5540.jpg

Luckily I don't see any damage to the transom, and the motor still tilts up and down as usual. I'll have my Yamaha mechanic check it over just to be sure (although when I called them this morning they said it was probably okay).

So, there I was (am), on the road and no more usable Wedge. I had originally cut a 1" dowel to fit in the two cast slots and lowered the engine down on that, but the shop said it wasn't a good idea and suggested a commercial product (not that they had one to sell me; I bought the M-Y Wedge on my own). Of course I was tripping over that piece of dowel ALL summer on the boat, but now I couldn't find it anywhere :cry

I did have a ~1" x 2" plywood scrap that was just about 4" too long, so I cut it to the proper length to fit into those two cast slots with a hacksaw blade. Then I beveled the top edge to about 45º (plane and utility knife) so the motor would contact it on a larger surface area and not just the "sharp" edge. Once I was sure it fit well, I cut a couple of pieces of dense rubber from a piece I had onboard (slated to go under the fuel tanks), and taped them into position -- just to hold them there until the motor trapped them in place.

I lowered the motor onto the wood/rubber wedge and it seems happy and secure. It doesn't *seem* like it's going to crack the motor casting (I'll have to find out more about how/where they have cracked - maybe it was something that would be obviously "wrong" to do).

On the road again....

Sunbeam :hot

PS: Because of this discussion I double-checked my Yamaha manual (last night, just before I discovered this issue, weirdly). All motors are probably not the same, but the manual for my F80 recommends trailering with the motor in the normal, down running position. It then says that if that is not possible due to ground clearance issues, then to support the motor in the up position with some (non-specified) aftermarket product (and not the tile support lever that the motor has, which is apparently just for when you are working on the engine or etc. and want to support it in the up position).

PPS to Thataway: I thought of something last night, which is that maybe the reason my Yamaha does not "want" to pivot from side-to-side is that I don't have hydraulic steering, but instead have cable steering. The cable is pretty stiff (when not boating), so maybe that holds it in position? Even with the Wedge failure, the motor stayed in the straight-ahead position.
 
Update:
Seventy miles down the road, all looks well with "my" wedge, so that's good.

Also, in thinking about the problem with the M-Y Wedge, I developed a theory, which was that good-ol' "OE" (i.e. operator error) caused it :oops:

I couldn't remember the instructions from when I first got it (I mean, I did read them then, but after that it's just a piece of rubber so not very complicated), and so I started wondering if I had it on "backwards." That is, I was thinking that maybe the slit should have been toward the boat, and the solid side toward the motor. Then once it was "trapped" it could not have rotated, and (in my mind) the motor would be pressing it *onto* the trim cylinder vs. maybe pushing it off/out. This seemed to explain it all.

However, just before posting this, I went back to the M-Y Wedge site and read the instructions for my type of Wedge (Universal model), and it actually stresses to turn the Wedge so that the solid side is facing the boat (which would put the slit side aft, which is how I had it when it failed). This is from the instructions:

M-Y Wedge website":2mxzjg0i said:
1. Trim outboard to up position.

2. Simply push the universal M-Y Wedge on the power tilt rod and it will pop or click into place.

TURN 180 DEGREES SO SOLID RUBBER IS FACING THE BOAT!!!!!

3. Trim outboard down until the rubber begins to compress.

I'll give the M-Y Wedge folks a call next week, just to get their thoughts on this. I spoke with them before ordering the Wedge last spring, and they were pleasant and helpful. I'll update this thread if/when I know more. It still may have been OE somehow.

Sunbeam :hot

PS to Captain's Cat: I went and read your linked M-Y Wedge story and I was surprised that tilting down on the wedges ruined the tilt cylinders on (both) of your 114 hp Suzukis. I was careful to not "over trim" the motor down on the Wedge (although I then wondered if I had not "pressed it down" enough and that allowed it to slip out of place - although it was compressed), but still.... that was considerable damage to your engines. I would have thought the tilt motors would just have "whirred" or stopped. Maybe it's because the "tilt" part goes faster (thus maybe more powerful) than the "trim" part on some engines? (I know my Yamaha is like this; the Etec 90 on a boat I was on this summer just had the slower function for both trim and tilt.) At any rate, if you wouldn't mind shedding more light on how it happened, I'd be interested to hear.
 
I thought I had added a few photos of my homemade-on-the road wedge, but I guess I forgot to transfer them over from my album. This is what I came up with. The blue tape is just temporary to hold the rubber in place before the engine traps it. If this wedge turns into a more permanent feature I'll do something such as contact-cement it into place on the wood.

IMG_5544.jpg

IMG_5548.jpg

IMG_5547.jpg

If anyone else who has a Yamaha F80 or F100 (or probably a 75 or 90) reads this and cares to share how they support the engine while trailering, I'm interested.

Sunbeam :hot
 
Sunbeam Said...

PS to Captain's Cat: I went and read your linked M-Y Wedge story and I was surprised that tilting down on the wedges ruined the tilt cylinders on (both) of your 115 hp Suzukis. I was careful to not "over trim" the motor down on the Wedge (although I then wondered if I had not "pressed it down" enough and that allowed it to slip out of place - although it was compressed), but still.... that was considerable damage to your engines. I would have thought the tilt motors would just have "whirred" or stopped. Maybe it's because the "tilt" part goes faster (thus maybe more powerful) than the "trim" part on some engines? (I know my Yamaha is like this; the Etec 90 on a boat I was on this summer just had the slower function for both trim and tilt.) At any rate, if you wouldn't mind shedding more light on how it happened, I'd be interested to hear.
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Ah, our learned Brat Friend, perhaps I can give back a little. Take a look at the stops on your engine in the down position. If they are like the Suzi, when you trim it all the way down, after the motor is done tilting and trimming, they have heavy stops on them. Then take a look at the top of the Trim/Tilt reservoir. Tap it.. It's made out of metal. If you hit it with a hammer (don't) it would dent easily. If you push it very hard with a very hard rubber M-Y wedge, it will crush it. Tilting it down to travel is simple. I did it several times. My trim/tilt runs at different speeds too, goes faster in the tilt position than trim position but I think when it reaches a certain position, it just shifts to the lower speed, probably with more pressure? Could be that the wedge is too long? It was just when I came back from an outer banks trip when I was up in the cockpit on the trailer with a flush bag ready to go on the ground under the engines that I didn't think to remove it from both engines from the traveling position and trimmed both engines down. The pressure, and it is considerable, from the hard M-Y wedge, crushed both of those metal reservoirs. :oops: :cry

And that's what caused it. Until I get younger instead of older and more forgetful, I'll never use one again. It's not a bad product in the right hands. :roll:

Charlie
 
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