trailering with tilt lock lever

Thanks for the detail. I now understand how it could happen. I'll have to look at my engine there just to see how it compares to what you're describing.

Just checked my homemade wedge again and all's still well. If it continues this solidly, I may end up sticking with "my" wedge.

Sunbeam
 
We do a "walk around" every two hours. This is along with out stretch the legs, walk the dog (if you have one), use the IR thermometer on the hubs, tires and disc brakes, thump the tires, and look at every piece of running gear, including the MY wedge. If the wedge deformed to this extent, it makes me think that there was excessive force on it. I have over 12,000 miles on the Wedge that Charlie gave me--I assume it was one of the two which ruined his trim system on the Suzuki, and it is still working well. I just bring the cyl down to contact, not to compression. The other issues why the cyl leaked to allow that much pressure on the MY wedge?

Yes, the "non feed back steering" will not allow turning of the outboard.
 
thataway":3mkq1uzj said:
If the wedge deformed to this extent, it makes me think that there was excessive force on it.
Click to expand...

You would think so, but I actually thought if anything I was too gentle on it. That is, I didn't want to "over trim" the engine down on it, so I brought it down just to contact and then a really small amount of "give" on the rubber (but nothing like "cranking" on it). I actually am thinking now that the wedge slipped out of place (forward off of the cylinder shaft) and then the motor pressed on it "un-fairly" (because it is not flat where the wedge then contacted it) and caused it to deform. The instructions say (emphatically) to put the solid part of the rubber toward the boat, but in the photos and video it looks to me like it is the opposite way (and I think I had it that "opposite" way on my successful 3,000 mile jaunt this summer). I will ask them about that when I contact them. To me the "opposite way" from the instructions seems like it would stay in place better.

thataway":3mkq1uzj said:
The other issues why the cyl leaked to allow that much pressure on the MY wedge?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if you are addressing Charlie's Suzukis or my engine. I guess maybe his since his trim cylinders were damaged. Mine seems fine, thankfully. Will have it checked over though.

thataway":3mkq1uzj said:
Yes, the "non feed back steering" will not allow turning of the outboard.
Click to expand...
Okay, so that explains why I don't have that issue. I notice the M-Y Wedge people make another product that looks like a pair of "mini wedges" and slips over the exposed rams on hydraulic steering to keep the motor from turning.

Sunbeam

PS: Aren't the IR thermometers handy? Sure is nice that they've become reasonably priced.
 
From Ron Fisher's picture in his post above:
stick11.sized.jpg


Ron, that is exactly like the wooden blocks I am using, only mine are a bit beefier. No extra padding there, just bare wood, held in place with the OB down pressure onto the sticks. Everything seems to stay in place. Maybe it is because my engines are smaller and lighter. (Hmmmmm, may be another advantage of twins) :P :lol: :lol:

Harvey
SleepyC:moon
 
Interesting to see how the wood fits on the various engines. On mine I have it "around the corner" on the vertical part, but that's because there are two indents there (on the boat-side of the motor casting) that nicely hold the wood.

I'll have to see how it continues to ride, but so far I'm liking my wider, wood-and-rubber wedge better than the central commercial one (of course I was also happy with the commercial wedge before it slipped out of place, and if it hadn't done that, I would still be trailering merrily along with it).
 
thataway":2iuns3l9 said:
The other issues why the cyl leaked to allow that much pressure on the MY wedge?
Click to expand...

Bob, mine didn't leak, I stupidly powered it down, not knowing they were still in place, getting them vertical to flush the engines after an extensive salt water trip to the OBX. My fault, no one else's, not even the Wedge. MURPHY got me....I was at the helm. If I'd been using the t/t switches at the engines and not the ones at the helm, it would not have happened..but I was tired after a 350mile TTT (TomCat Towing Trip), much of it on back, small roads!

The Suzi 115 and the 140 have the single t/t cylinder in the center, I think the 150 has dual cylinders which may be stronger. I'm not going to test them tho.. :disgust You have to lift the engine off the mount to replace them...

Whatever any of us use, we should make sure it's secured well to cover any eventualities. It could do a lot of damage to a following vehicle. Sure would lend credence though to those mudflaps that say BACK OFF JACK!
 
Harvey,

The motor pictured is a Honda forty, four stroke.

This same stick started our beefier when it was used on the Honda ninety that we hauled from Lake Havasue back to Iowa, last January.

The motor was placed in the most “up” position and I started band saw whittling until the stick would pass through.

Added a little down to stop any rocking etc.

I really do not know the “scientifics” here, but this approach seems logical and worked for us.

Regards,

Ron Fisher
_________________
1983 22' Classic, (R-Dory) sold April 2011
1990 16' Angler, (Lil Sis) sold January 2012
2006 16' Angler, (Gra-C) sold November 2012
2004 19' Angler, (Game On) purchased January 2012

"We Have Met The Enemy and He Is Us"
 
Hi Sunbeam. I have the Yamaha F80/F100. One day I noticed my lift lock bent out to the point where it slipped off the face and bound on the corner of the bracket. I raised the motor full up and hammered it back straight. That metal is very soft. I have tried dowels, 2x4's, metal all-thread and such and they all fell out dangling on the lanyard in a short distance. In a rush to head to the lake one day I ran to the garage and grabbed what seemed to be made for just this task. I had been wanting to add it to the Best Ideas for under $20, but just never got around to it.

I just loaded a few pictures for you on page 3 of my album. I would post here but don't know how. It is known as a Stanley (brand) tool or Stanley pry-bar. Can be had at any hardware for under $20. Others brands available now. Fits right in perfect ahead of the lift cylinder so it is about impossible to fall out. Recommend lanyard anyway. The leaf spring shape allows the bar to cradle and has a dab of flex so all is well.
 
C-WEED":ohiiv34w said:
I have the Yamaha F80/F100. One day I noticed my lift lock bent out to the point where it slipped off the face and bound on the corner of the bracket. I raised the motor full up and hammered it back straight. That metal is very soft.

...I just loaded a few pictures for you on page 3 of my album. I would post here but don't know how. It is known as a Stanley (brand) tool or Stanley pry-bar.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input - nice to hear from another F80-powered C-Dory :thup I'll take a look at your album.

I'm not sure when one is supposed to use that lever (except they say not for trailering). I guess maybe one could use it when working on the engine?

So far - after around 1,000 miles of not-always-smooth highway - my homemade wedge is working really well. Fingers crossed it will continue that way. I think it's the combination of the fact that the "stick" fits nicely into two recesses in the cast motor bracket, and then that the relatively high durometer rubber I wrapped it with allows the motor to "bite down" a little bit into it (without straining the trim mechanism) at which point it does its rubber thing and tries to "bounce back," which keeps tension on the whole arrangement. It hasn't budged. Also, there are two points of contact, not just one. It actually seems more secure than the M-Y Wedge. I made it with stuff I had on hand on the road (sure, now I'll never throw anything away! ;)).

(I'm still going to call the M-Y Wedge folks and talk it over with them -- I will report back in this thread.)

Sunbeam
 
Hm...all this talk about the wedge... I trailer my c-22 with the Merc 115 all the way down. I still have plenty of clearance. I do place it in gear to keep the prop from spinning in the wind. Is there any problems doing it this way? Colby
 
colbysmith":v962u8zp said:
Hm...all this talk about the wedge... I trailer my c-22 with the Merc 115 all the way down. I still have plenty of clearance. I do place it in gear to keep the prop from spinning in the wind. Is there any problems doing it this way? Colby
Click to expand...

As long as you're careful about the skeg not scraping on a sudden (like into/out of a parking lot) transition where one surface is flat and the other sloped moderately, you should be fine. Unless of course, some idiot hits you from behind (at any speed) where, if the motor were up, he/she would have done little damage to the boat/trailer and said idiot takes out your lower unit (with his/her) front unit... :cry Mine, on the 16 and the 22' when on the road were always up, betting on most idiots driving small sports cars!

With the TC255 and the engines up, they are pretty well out of any-idiot-range (new word) b/c of height, on lower boat towing rigs, maybe not. Of course if IDIOT is driving a big rig, all bets are off.. :disgust :thup

Charlie
 
Adding this post here because it was first posted on the "Best Ideas for Under $2)" thread, possibly my mistake.

C-WEED":1jhx7p1v said:
I have the Yamaha F80/F100. One day I noticed my lift lock bent out to the point where it slipped off the face and bound on the corner of the bracket. I raised the motor full up and hammered it back straight. That metal is very soft. I have tried dowels, 2x4's, metal all-thread and such and they all fell out dangling on the lanyard in a short distance. In a rush to head to the lake one day I ran to the garage and grabbed what seemed to be made for just this task.

Pics on page 3 of my album. I would post here but don't know how. It is known as a Stanley (brand) tool or Stanley pry-bar. Can be had at any hardware for under $20. Others brands available now. Fits right in perfect ahead of the lift cylinder so it is about impossible to fall out. Recommend lanyard anyway. The leaf spring shape allows the bar to cradle and has a dab of flex so all is well. Works good on my Yamaha not sure with other brands. Longer Bar length is available for larger outboards. Just like it was made for it!
Click to expand...

Chris- Here are the photos:

DSCN1924.sized.jpg
DSCN1923.sized.jpg
DSCN1922.sized.jpg

Does the metal bar cut into the metal castings and start corrosion?

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Charlie, I have worried about that everytime I go over a steep depression. But so far no problem. And I have gone over a few that would be considered large.... As far as someone hitting me from behind, it's all insured regardless...personally I believe there is less stress on the transom with the motor down.... none the less I'll have to look more into trailering with the motor up. If for no other reason than I don't have to pay as much attention to the road "divots". ;-) Colby
 
Hm.... kind of like the twin vs. single thing. ;-) FWIW, in earlier days, my pontoon had the device that went between the skag and trailer that held the motor up part way. Worked great, lasted a long time, trailered lots of miles that way. Last boat, a Searay I/O I used the devices that snapped over the hydraulic arms, and again with lots of trailering worked well, lasted long time, no issues. (Both these boat lower units would scrape ground if left down....) This boat so far seems to do just fine with motor down, no problems. I'm satisfied with clearance, and being aware of it go very slow if I'm not sure about a new location (pavement dip). Guess that answeres my question! ;-) Colby
 
colbysmith":2gebag1w said:
Hm...all this talk about the wedge... I trailer my c-22 with the Merc 115 all the way down. I still have plenty of clearance..... Is there any problems doing it this way?
Click to expand...

Does the Mercury manual for your specific motor discuss trailering?. The manuals for both of my engines (Yamaha 80 and Honda 8 ) say that the preferred way to trailer is with the motor down in the running position if you have the clearance. Of course that doesn't mean they all say that, but at least two do.

I have enough clearance on the Honda 8 to trailer with it down (and I could lift it temporarily if I just had to traverse a really steep driveway/transition); but on the Yamaha there is no way I could trailer with it in the down position without dragging it on the pavement. I guess your boat must sit higher up on its trailer? (presuming the engine is mounted the same in regards to the transom/prop height).

Sunbeam
 
Yes, I do have the manuals, and they recommend motor down. And yes, my trailer does have the boat sit high. (I still have no problem at most boat launches, but did run into a tough time in Dubuque on the Mississippi this year during the C-Dory get together in September. However, the river was very low.) The boat is in storage now, but I believe I had about a foot of clearance on the bottom of the skag. And the trailer wheels are fairly far back. Colby
 
FWIW: Roller trailers will situate the boat higher than bunk trailers and will have more clearance under the skeg(s).

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
We just used a carpeted piece of 2x4 with dimples drilled into the wood that fit the protrustions on our Yamaha outboard and tilt the motor down on it. Pictures in Will-C's album in a sub album titled trailer modifications. We have a pretty serious lag bolt going into the end of the 2x4 through a link of chain holding a piece of heavy cord connected to a clip that is attached to a stainless steel eye on our generator bracket to prevent one of our fellow motorists from wearing the 2x4 on their windshield if it should ever fall out. We have about 20k worth road miles of trailering the boat so far with no problems. Pretty simple to do. Cheaper than dirt. :)
D.D.
 
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