transducer attachment

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lloyds

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C Dory Year
1996
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
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undecided
I just purchased a new fish finder and was wondering if anyone has ever successfully attached the transducer to the hull with glue or adhesive of some sort? I hate to think about drilling new holes in the transom.
 
I would use 5200 to glue a piece of star board to the transom the screw the transducer into that. It will take a few days for the starboard to set up and cure but once its on its not coming off. I would line it up just a half inch or so above the the bottom of the hull. the mount on the transducer should have enough reach to make the bottom of the transducer and the hull line up.
 
I came across this, not sure if it works. www.sternmate.com it is a transducer mounting system that doesn't use screws .Tug
 
The Stern Mate systems seems to be a well thought out way of mounting a single transducer--not sure if it gives full flexibility. The mounting adhesive seems to be a two part--probably an epoxy. This would give me some pause about removal.

If using Starboard (which I have used many times)--you have to cross cut the back of the Starboard, with angled cuts or better yet small dovetails. I like to use 2-3 screws--first drill the screw holes, in the Starboard (countersunk)--and then into the boat. Then enlarge the screw holes, and fill with thickened epoxy. Put the block back in place and drill the pilot holes,--put the 4200 or 5200 in place and then the screws.

5200 does not adhere well to unprepared 5200. In fact few things do--flame treating and some epoxies and other urethane bonding agents can adhere--but not as well as screws, and the cross hatching.

Then you can put as many holes as you want in the Starboard to get the transducer just right.

Or try the Stern Mate and let us know how it goes.
 
I never saw a price on the sternmate on their website. But I didn't go through the purchase process either. I was thinking of using a piece of hardwood and using epoxy to attach it to the transom. I am going to try something, just can't decide what.
 
Too high for me. I think I can accomplish the same thing with a good piece of hardwood.
 
West Systems G-Flex 650 epoxy bonds to Starboard. Lightly sand Starboard and flash with a propane torch. Apply epoxy and clamp together or in the case of it being on the transom wedge a brace against a block of wood holding the Starboard tightly against the transom until the epoxy cures.
 
Thanks for that info. I don't have a torch. Can I accomplish the same thing with a heat gun?
 
We successfully mounted our transducer directly to the hull in 2008 and no problems at all. We used JB Weld - simple and easy.

We have cruised about 250hrs and all is nice and solid - no starboard, no drill holes.

Here is the original post that we found:

flagold wrote:

JB Weld works great for a "no hole" install. If you need to change transducers, you simply disassemble the bracket and slip the new one in the old bracket. If the bracket needs changing for some reason (the almost never have to be changed), pop the seam of the JB Weld/transducer/hull with a wood chisel and it will come off.

Figure out the loation of the install, place duct tape on the transducer and put the JB Weld on the surface that mates with the hull. Leave on overnight.
Click to expand...
 
lloyds":rti2iiz5 said:
Thanks for that info. I don't have a torch. Can I accomplish the same thing with a heat gun?
Click to expand...

Hardwood may be your best choice, apply 5200 and hot glue to hold it in place then let it cure for the recommended time. Additionally you could seal around the edges with 4200 and apply a few coats of Spar Urethane Varnish. If after a few years the hardwood attachment plate needs replacing it’s no big deal, 5200 can be safely removed with acetone and a plastic scraper.

I was going to do the exact same thing to my boat but opted for an in-hull transducer, it has worked great!

The problems I’ve encountered with starboard are nothing really sticks to it and eventually sunlight will destroy it.

I also like the JB weld idea, have had good luck with that stuff over the years.
 
I used the Stern Mate Product and it has been on over a year without any issues. It was easy to install and also provides for easy adjustment of the transducer position.
 
Lloyd, I think Tom's idea of a piece of starboard on the transom is best. I did drill and seal the holes when I mounted my starboard, as I did not want to have 5200 stuck on back there.
 
naptime":2dkq676b said:
I used the Stern Mate Product and it has been on over a year without any issues. It was easy to install and also provides for easy adjustment of the transducer position.
Click to expand...
Hello "naptime"....we always enjoy reading the great comments like yours made by our SternMate™ customers. You've had some winter up there this year according to my family, and I don't believe you've seen all of it yet either. Ya think a Cdory would look out of place in Texas? If you would, I'd certainly like to have a photo of your boat and SternMate™.
 
I need to add a caveat to my statement that G-Flex bonds to Starboard. It has been working great bonding Starboard to aluminum. I tried to glue two pieces of Starboard together to form a 1 inch thick piece to mount a new 1000 watt transducer to. While the bond between the two pieces of Starboard appears to be sound, the overflow from the joint broke off easily from the edges of the Starboard. Of course that edge wasn't sanded or flashed.
Forrest
 
A heat gun will not give enough heat to "flash" the Starboard. But you can use any gas burner (don't tell the Admiral--and be careful!). Everyone needs a propane torch! (Amoungst about 1000 other "tools").
 
I have another question regarding transducer mounting. My boat spends much of its time in the water. Aside from struggling with critters and slime on the engine brackets :amgry , dealing with growth on the transducer is about the biggest PITA there is. I've been toying for years with the idea of some sort of transducer mount that allows the unit to be raised out of the water when not in use, but affords a quick and easy way to lower the unit securely to its working location.

I just came across this: http://www.transducersaverplus.com/tran ... mount.html

Has anyone tried this or a similar product, or designed their own sliding mount? Pitfalls? Suggestions?
 
I glued two Weld Mount studs on the hull and then tapped a small piece of stainless for the transducer and drilled to holes for the studs and bolted it on.
My boat is in the water and I do not have a trailer so this was the best method for me. Seems to work just fine, no holes in hull,i can remove the transducer at any time, and removing the studs should not be a big deal.
Jerry C Nile
 
There are a lot of bass fishermen who have transducers mounted on the trolling motor in the bow. These come out of the water. I had one boat where the previous owner had mounted the transducer on a 8 foot pole, which swung from the bow sprit down into the water. I owned another boat which had a wooden version of the device you found.

I don't see any reason why it would not work. I have a swim step on one side of the 22, and a mount for the kicker/dinghy motor on the other (stb side, where the transducer is typically mounted.)

This device should work fine--just the issue of taking it up and down--and that may be not an issue for you. There are a number of other ways of mounting a transducer on an arm which would swing down.
 
I used a scrap piece of corian countertop material, epoxied to the transom, then drilled for the transducer mount. The corian material is soft enough to cut with a table saw into a block of the right size. If you would like a block, send me your measurements and I'll get in the mail to you.
 
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