Trolling a Tom Cat at 1 mph

I agree with Joe on the repitching--if you go way down in pitch, you can troll at a slow speed, but the boat may not be able to reach a speed where it will plane and you risk over reving (unless a rev limiter is present) the outboard.)

As for steering, I just use a piece of PVC pipe which slips over the handle for steering. I used this same 3.5 Tohatsu motor to push a 28 foot express cruiser over our sand bar for about 4 years--if it was really windy, it was a bit of a problem with control--but even the main engine was a potential problem with a high freeboard foreward.

I agree that there are better trim tabs than Lenco--but my express cruiser had them and we had no problems--but the boat was lift kept and run in fresh water the last few minutes of each run.

I think that the Torqueedo is an interesting engine--I use a 43 Lb thrust trolling motor regularly on our 12 foot Aluminum skiff--but I have two Golf cart batteries and charge them with a 110 v chager regularly. I don't think I would buy one for cruising applications currently, but at some point I think they will come into their own and do offer advanced technology.
 
Sea Wolf":2jmlycsh said:
[it's a MinnKota 44 lb thrust Fresh water motor.
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According to the C-Dory website, your 22 on the trailer weighs about 3500#. My TC on the trailer weighs north of 9000#. I'm thinking that I should get 2 of the 80# thrust saltwater motors to get equivalent or slightly better performance to yours. What do you think?

Warren
 
The Tom Cat will also have more "water resistance" than the CD 22, because of the bridge deck draggin in the water. if the hulls were competely clear, I suspect that the weight would not make a lot of difference. (I have found pushing big boats, what water line, and hull shape means more than weight. For example pushing the 60,000 lb boat with about a 45 foot water line with 4.5 hp was about equivilant speed with a 40,000 lb boat with 40 foot LWL.

Don't forget that you will need 24 volts for the 80 lb thrust trolling motors.
There are ways of charging the batteries with 12 volts and a 110 V Charger, but not as convient as charging 12 volt batteries. (I have run both 24 volt windlass and 24 volt thrusters on 12 volt system boats, and had to deal with this problem).
 
Lori Ann":aqvuqrpz said:
Sea Wolf":aqvuqrpz said:
[it's a MinnKota 44 lb thrust Fresh water motor.
Click to expand...

According to the C-Dory website, your 22 on the trailer weighs about 3500#. My TC on the trailer weighs north of 9000#. I'm thinking that I should get 2 of the 80# thrust saltwater motors to get equivalent or slightly better performance to yours. What do you think?

Warren
Click to expand...

Warren-

160# should be adequate for the Tomcat 255, unless the drag from the tunnel is really significant. I'm not as familiar with the Tomcat, of course.

I'd discuss the plan with a technical representative from the electric motor manufacturer.

Also, I don't know if you were asking me or Bob, but if the 80# motors require 24 volts, you'll be best off with separate batteries for them. Getting 24 volts out of your existing batteries would require some pretty fancy diode hookups and present similar charging problems. Since you need the extra amperage anyway for the trolling motors, a additional set of batteries would be in order.

This is getting beyond what I am familiar with, and I'd suggest you talk to the technical rep about how this problem of creating and (mostly) charging the 24 volt system is best done.

Joe.
 
Yes, I would recommend separate batteries for the 24 volt trolling motors. Even if you put in the 40 lb thrus trolling motors, I probably would put in separate batteries. The trolling motors can use quite a bit of power at higher thrust levels, where I think you will be. I have a 28 lb thrust motor which I might have a chance to try on my tom cat and see what it does--I pulled some debris with the 43 lb thrust motor after the hurricane. But after a few experiences which took a long time, I started using the 3.5 hp Nissan for any major "logging" operations.

Charging the 24 volt system can be done several ways. I charged each 12 volt battery by taking them out of series and putting them in parallel with a simple switch. when charging, back in series when running the windlass or thruster. There is a relitatively simple device for about $90 which will do this for you automatically available currently:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=672772
 
This is getting way too complicated, not to mention the challenges of finding space for the batteries, and setting up the charging system.

I think I am first going to try the various methods suggested for slowing down the boat (drift socks, buckets, etc.)

Thanks, everyone.
Warren
 
Lori Ann: You may consider tossing the sock/buckets over the front of the boat using the center forward cleat, and letting the sock troll under/between the sponsons ...maybe? That would keep the sock out of the fishing lines, but, for sure you would want a good tie up front to keep it forward of the motors.. You have the sock. You have the rope....but, bad news if the sock gets free and into the single prop that is running. Looking at all of this... a real small "portable" kicker might be the rig with a piece of PVC pipe for speed adjustments and not have to get out of your chair in the cockpit.

Byrdman
 
Well, since I am going to buy a Tohatsu 3.5hp for the dinghy anyway, I think it behooves me to see how I can make it work with what I have. Thataway Bob attached his to his swim step bracket, so what I am thinking about now is investigating whether I could do the same and tie the motor in with the big motors using an EZ Steer linkage. I had one on my Hewescraft (130 & 9.9 Hondas) and it worked well.

Thanks for the center cleat idea. I'll have to see if the tunnel collapses the sock or not.

Warren
 
Warren-

The small Tohatsu seems like a great idea, considering the complexity of some of the alternatives. The KISS Principle wins again!

I've never seen an arrangement with a small motor between two large ones linked with an E-Z Steer system, but one could be devised with stainless cables linking two E-Z Steer motor brackets on the large engines with one on the the back of the Tohatsu. The one on the small motor would have to be extended out so that the radius of it's swing was similar to that of the big motors.

Do you have a second steering station in the cockpit?

You won't have throttle, shift (none on motor, probably), or shut off control over the motor from the helm anyway, so maybe Bob's $2.00 piece of PVC pipe is starting took better and better!

Joe.
 
The Tohatsu/Nissan only steers from the handle. It has a clutch (neutral)--360 degree rotation--so you even get a "stern thruster" in the deal...!

I agree that the dinghy motor is the simplist and cheapest--and that is what we use. The second feature of this is, that since the prop is between the tunnels, you can run the boat in just an inch or two of water deeper than the hulls.

I am not so sure about the linkage--this again gets complex. The main motors have enough rudder effect at a knot or to to allow rough steering. If you have to make radical movements, then fire up the mains, or use the PVC to steer the small outboard.
 
Joe,

Yes, I have an aft steering station on the TC. I also have an autopilot which I really want to keep operational with the small engine.

I don't believe it will be necessary to tie the Tohatsu to both Yamahas. Those are already tied together. I just need to tie the Tohatsu to one of them and hopefully that will work. I've asked EZ-Steer for more info. Why were you suggesting linking the small engine to both large engines?

For emergencies I can probably overpower the 3.5 with the two 150s until I get out of harm's way (e.g., combat trolling, etc.)

On my Hewescraft, I also experimented with a tiller extension. The problem with it was that the angle of swing was limited by running into the big motor and/or the hull (the longer the extension, the greater the arc of movement required.) However, the KISS principle dictates that an extension may be the best solution. We will see.


Warren
 
Lori Ann":kwufu4gc said:
Joe,

Why were you suggesting linking the small engine to both large engines?

Warren
Click to expand...

Sorry, just didn't think to realize one link would be enough with the existing cross link between the two motors.

Joe.
 
The link between the engines is the liquid tie bar--hydraulic. To me once you start putting mechanical tie bars in, it gets very complicated!
 
thataway":15ee30h6 said:
The link between the engines is the liquid tie bar--hydraulic. To me once you start putting mechanical tie bars in, it gets very complicated!
Click to expand...

The 3.5 is so much smaller and lighter than the 150 I don't see how it could have much effect, especially at slow speeds. The mechanical tie bar is between the 3.5 and only one of the 150s. Thus the hydraulic tie between the 150s is not affected.

Warren
 
Agree that you would not involve the liquid tie bar in the link to the 3.5. The EZ steer I believe clamps around the lower legs of the outboards--and thus you have a relitatively complicated linkage--especially with the articulartion which allows the kicker to be raised.

I would envision a linkage on the front--just a plane turnbuckle and rod type of link. Just put a couple of pins and a bar--something like that.
I would try and keep it as simple as possiable.

Also with the two large motors, almost acting as flanking rudders, I suspect that the boat might steer fairly well, with the trolling motor just locked dead center. I would try this first and see. Just make the bracket out of plywood and a couple of bolts--give it a try and see how it works.
 
thataway":1vslalnq said:
Also with the two large motors, almost acting as flanking rudders, I suspect that the boat might steer fairly well, with the trolling motor just locked dead center. I would try this first and see. Just make the bracket out of plywood and a couple of bolts--give it a try and see how it works.
Click to expand...

That's a great idea. But you know what? Sometimes I am so brilliant I scare myself. :roll: The latest solution I have come up with is to idle one motor in reverse while running the other at a higher speed in forward. Now, admittedly this introduces problems of excessive fuel consumption and steering, but is that a kick-ass KISS solution or what? :lol:

Back to your idea. I could take it one step further and give one motor or the other some throttle. One way or another I think the 3.5 mounted as you say should do the trick.

Warren
 
Warren,

The TC steers pretty good just by the engine legs, w/o engines "on".

Drift socks are great, just head upwind over potential fishing spots and drift back over them. Very stealthy approach. Good for walleyes.

I think some sort of "dam" or "drag" is far better than having to mess with a third motor.

Backtrolling will REALLY slow you down, and you could hang a rod out the helm window or thru the opening front window.

John
 
Warren-

Do you have a windlass?

Get a strong 5 gallon or larger as necessary bucket and substitute it for the anchor. (may have to weigh the bottom a bit to get it to deploy.)

Drag it between the hulls like a drogue.

It can be retrieved in an emergency with the windlass to clear the water with a fish on or move the boat quickly.

:idea :?: :?: :?: Worth a thought?

Joe.
 
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