V-Berth condensation: foam

With the solvent-based adhesives, is there much VOC out-gassing after the initial application? I've used contact cement applying counter top laminate in the past and it's had a very strong, toxic smell (hence the need for a respirator).

I'm contemplating this project myself and am concerned I don't wind up with a berth that smells like solvent. In such a confined space it seems like any residual out-gassing might be a problem.
 
I used 3M spray adhesive (green label can) to apply 1/4" closed cell foam to the sides of the vee berth. I cleaned the surface with alcohol before application. The foam has been up there several years now with minor debondings. I wore a cartridge respirator with the top hatch and cabin windows open. Odor during and for a few day after application but nothing since.
 
williwaw":3bni9mea said:
With the solvent-based adhesives, is there much VOC out-gassing after the initial application? I've used contact cement applying counter top laminate in the past and it's had a very strong, toxic smell (hence the need for a respirator).

I'm contemplating this project myself and am concerned I don't wind up with a berth that smells like solvent. In such a confined space it seems like any residual out-gassing might be a problem.
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Yes, that is a concern. The paint on contact cements, in use, leave a thicker film, which takes longer to "dry" to the point you can join the two surfaces. I have not used any spray on contact cements over large areas, but I suspect it is easier to generate a minimal surface film, and likely would require less time to outgas.

I strongly prefer closed cell foam for an application like this over open cell foam. Open cell foam is typically not as durable and does not insulate as well, for a given thickness. In addition, open cell will absorb water and take a while to dry out.

Remember, the purpose of the foam layer is to prevent the exposed surfaces from cooling to the point they pull water out of the air, as condensation, so the better the insulating value, the better it will work. Of course, any surface will show mildew if not ventilated, and a little heat, in the form of a light bulb or two, is always a good idea if the boat is in long term storage.
 
willronco":379tfkch said:
Thanks for the tip on respirators. I bought one of the 3m cartridge type respirators and sure enough, NO SMELL WHATSOEVER while I was gluing stuff to the walls. Count me among the converted, that thing is AWESOME.
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Sweet! Glad to hear you got one and liked it. It *is* nice to just smell "air" (on top of being protected, of course). I now grab mine quite often.... you get spoiled by having it.

willronco":379tfkch said:
However, I had no luck on getting foam to stick to the walls. I tried contact cement and DAP adhesive, but neither wanted to stick to the contours of the hull. It could have been a temperature / humidity problem I guess.
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Erg...:amgry

I did a similar project (closed cell Ensolite onto fiberglass inside walls of a camper) and did have success. I'm going to see if I can figure out which product I used. It was a "net" type aerosol by 3M. I know it was NOT the 3M77, because Internet research showed that had not worked for others for the same job (it's for lighter stuff). I think I used either the 3M80 or 3M90 but will now go look to see if I have notes on it.

I could see where if there was any moisture/condensation on the inner berth walls you might have an issue (did you?).

I don't know of any glue that will hold the stuff up, but then release cleanly (usually there is some "clean-up" required after removal, in my experience). But then there are always new products, and/or ones that are unknown to me.

I'm with Dave -- I wouldn't use open-celled foam on boat "walls" (i.e. inside of hull sides); too often I've seen it moldy or falling apart from absorbing moisture.

Sunbeam
 
Sunbeam, thanks!

There wasn't visible condensation on the walls, but it felt pretty damp inside the cabin. I'm starting to think a stronger/better adhesive is going to be what I need, and I'm OK with that.

My concern with removal is mostly that the foam/glue residue would prove practically impossible to remove. If, at some future date, I need to spend four hours with paint thinner to get all of the glue and foam off the wall, that is OK. I just really want to avoid something that is impossible to remove without damaging the fiberglass.

I'm OK with something that would leave residue behind, as long as I can remove it with "normal" tools (eg. goo-gone or similar, assuming that doesn't damage interior fiberglass and paint)
 
When we did this project on the 22 6 years ago? We used closed cell foam and rubber cement. Just cut out your foam sheets to the right shape. Paint the walls, after proper prep, with the cement and then paint the foam. Wait a minute before you place the two together. you have a couple of minutes to move the foam around and get the placement right before the cement sets. We did the same thing with the carpet. last I say the boat, about a year ago. It was just like the day we installed it. Picture in my album some where of the install.
 
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