Vancouver Island's West Coast in a C-Dory

Bess-C

New member
Brock, thanks for asking about our trip. The west coast of Vancouver Island is my favorite place, we've been going there for 15-20 years with and without a boat. I saw my first C-Dory there (a red 16'), and I think it is a perfect place to cruise with a C-Dory.

We took the ferry from Tsawassan to Nanaimo and stayed in Nanaimo the first night. I've had several C-Brats ask about the cost of the ferry. It is a little steep. The cost for the 25' our vehicle and two people was approximately $125 each way. We then went to Tofino and stayed at the 4th Street Dock for the first week.

If you haven't been there before, it's kind of hard to describe Tofino. It's a fishing village that has been transformed into a tourist destination. There is a thriving counterculture group, surfers, German tourists, French Canadians, sport fishermen and a few folks that are circumnavigating the island on their boats. It has 4 or 5 great restaurants. The 4th St dock is pretty run down, but an interesting place to stay. It doesn't feel like you're in an upscale tourist destination while moored there. From there we explored Clayoquot Sound. Once away from the dock, you have most of the Sound pretty much to yourself. It is approximately 20 miles across from south to north. There are great coves to spend the night in, usually you're the only one there. Lots of islands to explore. This year the salmon fishing was great. To quote a commercial fisherman it was "the best year in living memory" for salmon in Tofino. Even though we were at the tail end of the season, there were lots of springs (chinook) and coho left. The weather is usually best in August, but we had a lot of good weather the first week of September.

The second week of our vacation, we trailered 20 miles south to the town of Ucluelet. This town is on the northern edge of Barkley Sound. Barkley Sound is again about 20 miles north to south, with the Broken Island Group in the middle of it. Ucluelet's small boat basin is a great headquarters for the area. A beautiful area, we especially liked Bamfield which is at the southern edge of the Sound. Beautiful little town built around sportfishing and other water activities.

I could go on for way to long about this area. I recommend it as a cruising destination for any C-Dory. You can have a much more remote, wild experience than the more developed San Juan's, yet it's a relatively safe area to boat in with boats the size of all of the C-Dorys. If anyone wants to explore the area, I'll give you what knowledge I have. There are others here who have a better knowledge of the Barkley Sound area and fishing opportunities.
Lyle
 
Lyle - would you take your boat up the west side of Vancouver Island to Tofino from a launch, say, in Anacortes?


Bess-C":10qkp7zw said:
Brock, thanks for asking about our trip. The west coast of Vancouver Island is my favorite place, we've been going there for 15-20 years with and without a boat. I saw my first C-Dory there (a red 16'), and I think it is a perfect place to cruise with a C-Dory.
 
Hi Pat,

I don't think I would. I don't have enough experience on the open ocean. There are several long stretches where you can't get off of the ocean if conditions deteriorate. Also lots of fog on that coast in the summer. There were several larger boats docked close to us that had come up from Seattle. It's a common trip for boats 35' and up.

I believe Dusty has made the trip in a 26' boat, and if Mr. Fisherman will go 50 miles west from Newport, it would just be a day trip up and back from Neah Bay for him.
Lyle
 
Wow, Lyle, you and your photos have really set my mind in motion. How easy that is to trailer our small boats to Tofino or Ucluelet and begin a fabulous, relatively unpeopled adventure. Thanks for that.
 
CM - Are you supposed to be dayreaming and typing and internet browsing, or are you supposed to be working? I think the latter, my friend.
 
Bess-C":bumva5e1 said:
... if Mr. Fisherman will go 50 miles west from Newport, it would just be a day trip up and back from Neah Bay for him.
Lyle

well I am one to pick my days rather carefully and from what I have seen of the Northern coast I am not sure I would be able to do a trip like that without about a 3 week window in the calm summer months...

I have range for well over 200 miles without adding fuel... I sure enjoy those 12 hour days on the Ocean...
 
Ken, I'm supposed to be working too, but since I'm just back from vacation I can't get my mind and heart into it.

Brock, here's some more information for you to process while daydreaming. It is about 2 hours from Seattle to the border crossing. It is exactly 45 minutes from the border crossing to the Tsawassen ferry dock. The ferry takes two hours to Nanaimo. From Nanaimo it is one hour to Port Alberni. From Port Alberni it is about 1 1/2 hours to the west coast. The road from Port Alberni to the west coast is the adventure. It gets worse the further west that you travel. It is uneven, narrow and twisty for about 20 miles. You are traveling down a narrow curvy road at 50 mph, and you come to a sign that says narrow winding road ahead. It's laughable, but they aren't kidding. It's only about 50 miles from Port Alberni to the west coast, but it takes an hour and a half. When you get almost to the Pacific Ocean you will come to a junction. Right 20 miles takes you to Tofino and Clayoquot Sound, left 5 miles takes you to Ucluelet and Barkley Sound The stretch between the junction and Tofino is a Canadian national park with beautiful beaches. The park is occupied by surfers (surfing's become a Canadian craze), cougars and bears. Both Tofino and Ucluelet have everything that you would need for C-Dory cruising.

When you're in Ucluelet you can cross a 7 mile channel and then you are in the Broken Island group, a group of several hundred islands that are also part of the national park. Because it's a national park it is undeveloped. There are protected places to anchor there. It's very popular with kayakers and boaters in the summer. It wasn't very populated at the beginning of September.
Lyle
 
TyBoo":1zg4hh9c said:
CM - Are you supposed to be dayreaming and typing and internet browsing, or are you supposed to be working? I think the latter, my friend.

Thanks, Pat. Man, that Tyboo's filling in for my absent control freak boss: Watching, surveying, evaluating, studying my motions and choices. To both big sister and brother I resolutely say, hey, what better place to hang out than Bratville?
:male
 
I've added a few pictures of our trip to our album this morning. They give a little flavor of the area. Most of these were taken by Shelley with her new digital camera. The guys harvesting the sea urchins were very friendly and cracked open one so that we could taste it. Not bad, I guess it's a great delicacy in Japan and they're harvesting millions every year for the Japanese market.
Lyle
 
I am heading to Port Alberni and up through the Broken Islands the 2nd Week in August. A group of friends will be kayaking while I am in my C-Dory.

Any info about Marina's in Port Alberni or places to go or avoid in the Broken Islands
 
Don't exactlly know the name of it, but it is on the river and you'd almost run into it as you come into downtown. You pay for parking there, but we've left vehicles for a week with no problems. There are attendants there whenever we've come in during daylight hours. It is also well lit. It is a couple of miles from the Alberni inlet, and you stay near the townside bank going or coming -- that's where the channel is. There are adequate pilings and such to make the trip just fine. Going down the inlet, there are a multitude of areas where you could make a wrong turn, so it is adviseable to preplot the trip with map and gps so that you can follow the road. If you need waypoints to get to Bamfield or Ucluelet I could probably print them for you. It is a beautiful trip ... very scenic and there is enough traffic that if you need assistance you could hail someone. There is also a daily passenger ferry that on alternating days goes to Bamfield, and Ucluelet. That is a nice day trip to take. Enjoy, Ron
 
C-Sick:

You are about to enter paradise. Plan on lots of explorations. Barkley Sound has a lot to offer. I was last there in 1999.

Suggestions: The main marina in Pt Alberni is well equipped and a very friendly place to moor. The town is a nice place with all the amenities you would expect. China Creek - just down the Sound is also a good marina. Getting from Alberni to "the front" (no one there calls them the Broken Islands) is about a 1.5-3 hour trip, depending on the water. Well worth it! Tides rips can be big there as can the winds. Together they can chop up the water. Visit Bamfield and see if "Pete" is still working the gas dock and bait store there (east side of the channel). Fishing on the front tends to be awesome. (You have to fish there.) We would have 3-4 cohos on at once. I have never laughed so hard in my life. Get your Canadian fishing license online at:

http://www.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/recfish/Li ... ault_e.htm

Other links:

http://www.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/recfish/default_e.htm
http://www.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/ops/fm/Areas/area_23_e.htm
http://www.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/recfish/Tidal/area23_e.htm
http://tides-marees.gc.ca/cgi-bin/tide- ... h&region=1
http://www.britishcolumbia.com/regions/ ... ownID=3940
http://www.salmonuniversity.com/vis_barkley_sound.html

Enjoy the bald eagles out on the front. Try bottom fishing most anywhere in Barkley Sound - awesome lings. (Check the regs tho...) EXPLORE!

Cautions: Gas is really expensive. Watch out for deadheads - the Sound is full of them - BIG ones too. This includes huge chunks of bark that can wrap round your lower unit (!) Go slow at night. Watch for fog rolling in from seaward while on the front. If you don't have radar you will need to run! Be prepared for open ocean water conditions while on the front (big swells are common). The Sound is more protected. Really study your charts. Lots of widow-maker rocks - especially on the front.

Wish I were going... Enjoy!
 
What a great response from Falco to help a newbie discover the wonders of boating on the West Side of Vancouver Island. The links are great and you can't beat the encouragement.

It is one thing to own a boat. It is whole other matter to have people who willing to be so darn helpful.

Any one else want to chime in on the wonders of this area.
 
This is an old thread but still pretty relevant.

I have been thinking about going to Clayquot Sound and now I am convinced that I really need to go. Your pictures have convinced me.

However, I would feel better going with another boat. I single hand so I usually feel more comfortable with other boats around.
 
I've cruised Clayoquot twice, once cruising in from outside and once trailering a C-Dory and both times single-handed. The entire inside of the Sound is safer than cruising Lake Powell (where a collision with a PWC is a constant threat). Although it has a remote feeling, there are a surprising number of people monitoring VHF (the locals use it like a cell phone) as well as complete CG coverage on 16. Any "problem" would likely have a boat alongside in 30 minutes. Not true if you are in a remote slot canyon on Lake Powell. The biggest tidal rip is actually right along the docks in Tofino. Easiest to visit town for gas or supplies during slack. Also the area right around town has the most navigation markers because of rocks and sand spits. Going in and out of Tofino was probably the most complex navigation on the Sound.

Going outside to fish is a little different. If you fish the popular spots, like "the Rock," there will be other boats around. If you stay outside the little barrier islands when returning to Tofino, you will likely be by yourself for an hour. Still easy radio coverage but the prevailing wind and swells will push you towards a nasty landing.

There is plenty to do and see for a week to 10 days in the back areas of the Sound. If the water is flat out front (which it was for several days both times I was there), then poking around outside gives you the feeling of being on the edge of the earth. Fishing was great. There is a processor on the docks in Tofino that will freeze and package mult-day catches.

I just got back from fishing in the Broughtons and there is a new 1 Chinook limit for a "Goldilocks" fish. It can't be too small and it can't be too big. Odd regulation. The limit on rockfish was one a day, so my supper menu is still the same. I don't know if this BC rule applies everywhere.

There is overnight moorage at the Port of Tofino. I never stayed there, but I did stop in for fresh water and a walk up to the Rhino Coffee Shop. Good coffee and pastries. At the other end of town is a public dock with easy access to a good supermarket and hardware store.

I'm leaving for Haida Gwaii on Friday, so it looks like no cruising the West Coast of Vancouver Island for me this year.

Mark
 
Although it has a remote feeling, there are a surprising number of people monitoring VHF (the locals use it like a cell phone) as well as complete CG coverage on 16

Mark, Thanks for the encouragement. I really want to go there but it will take me some time to convince myself that I can (or want to) do it by myself.

It is good to hear about other people's experiences. I am one step closer to packing my boat.

Gypsy
 
Bess-C

Next summer we're going to take our C-Dory 25 to Vancouver Island (again), up to Port hardy and launch it. In trying to get a handle of the costs I looked at the BC Ferry page and made an estimate of the ferry tolls. I get a total for the truck, boat and two passengers of ~$250 each way. The total rig is 50', btw.

Since this is twice what you're indicating, how did you pay only $125 for a 50' rig? I would love it if I could get by for only that much.

Boris
 
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