Wallas 1300 Heater Installation

The Wallas rep at the show told me a way to do it but I found a better way.

We wanted a simple way to direct the air around the boat a little better. I used 3in abs pipe fittings and some rubberized high temp electrical tape to snug the slip joint from the heater to pipe junction. I added a 5 inch straight pipe and have two slip fittings that I can swap between.

I got one fitting at 90 degrees to direct air into the cockpit directly and another coupler to use the standard louvered end most of the time. Works slick and looks fine. The flexpipe could have worked but it would have been flimsy.

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Greg
 
I spent some time at the SBS talking to the Wallas rep there. the 1300 is very appealing to me too, and I didn't get anything about the "end of life" coming for it. Hmmm. Maybe he just did want to get into that. I would consider it as my first choice heater from what I know about it, and my preference would be for an install under the sink, mounted to the forward cabinet wall... Might mean I'd have to move some other stuff... now wouldn't that be a surprise. :shock: :twisted: :mrgreen: :love ... boat projects.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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We ended up having some overheat shutdowns early this summer coincidentally or not, after Aven decided to turn the unit off by throwing the switch a few times. Anyway, we brought it to Scan Marine where they tested under warranty and said it was basically in spec but said they did a little tuning anyway for good measure. I re-installed and we ran it a few times even during the warm summer and still had some overheat shutdowns but it did run a few times without the over heat. Note: when the unit overheats, it throws a little switch near the air outlet and goes into shutdown mode only leaving us with about 10 minutes of operating time before it starts the shutdown and cool off running period. We press the little switch to reset and its ready for another try. So we could always cycle the unit again and again for an additional 10 minutes of heat in the worst case.

Well I didn't really make any changes, but this weekend (cooler weather maybe?) we ran it for about 8 hours without any problems so maybe the problem has gone away. We will report back if it comes back.

Another suggestion from another brat was to put a small piece of metal tape over the sensor/switch to just dampen the heating and lessen the sensitivity. I was keeping that in reserve and may still use that trick if the problem returns.

We still love the relative simplicity of this unit and the heat it puts out is always appreciated and even enjoyed.

Greg
 
Thought I'd add my installation and initial opinions on the Wallas 1300dt...

Last spring, Greg and Cindie gave me a demo of their 1300 on a crisp evening at Jones island. The way it heated up the entire cabin of their 19, PLUS their large camperback enclosure convinced me it was exactly what I was looking for. So, this Thursday I finally made the call to Scan Marine to place the order. The kit arrived on Friday and I installed it on Saturday.

It took about 2 hours just sitting in the boat trying to decide where to put it, while reviewing the great ideas in this thread and others, along with the installation manual. There are several design constraints, such as the tank must be below the heater, the intake/exhaust duct can't be longer than 3', and the warm air duct, if used, can't be longer than 3'. Also, the exhaust/intake must be at least 1' above waterline, and behind the widest part of the boat (this according to Scan Marine, although I didn't see any mention of this in the manual).

Confounding those restrictions was my preference to have it enclosed and out of the way, so as not to take up counter space (as in the case of a countertop installation) or legroom (in the case of an under-table installation). Additionally, I found myself really reluctant to drill unnecessary holes into the hull, countertop, fiberglass cabinet, or any other finished/exterior fiberglass area.

So the compromise I decided on was to mount it to the drawer frame under the galley counter and to not use the air duct (it was not recommended by Scan Marine for this model anyway), and this just requires the rightside cabinet door be left open while in use, which isn't an issue for me. My other thought with this location is that if I decide to relocate it down the road and use the air duct, it wouldn't be a big deal to do that.

After deciding on the location, it took about 4 hours for the physical install, mounting the heater, cutting and installing the thru-hull, cutting the intake and exhaust ducting to proper length, installing the tank. Then it took about 2 more hours to install /route the 12v wiring, fuse, and the optional remote switch.

Up until now, my winter boating has been restricted to marinas where I can plug in and use a 1500W ceramic heater. That heater has 2 settings 750W and 1500W, and I usually run it at the low setting and occasionally bump it up to the high setting for maybe up to an hour before I get too hot even in the coldest weather (about 32 degrees F is my boating limit)...

After running the Wallas for about 4 hours Saturday night, a cold night in the low 30s, I would say that it is somewhere in between the low and high setting of my ceramic heater, which is perfect! Although I don't have a thermometer yet, I would guess that it maintained around 70 degrees in the cabin. It is also much quieter than the electric heater. On the return trip Sunday morning I ran the Wallas, and it was so nice to finally have a warm cabin while cruising, and without fogging in the rain and snow. Back at the marina, it was also nice to be able to turn on the heat while cleaning up the boat on the workstand, without having to get out the extension cord and electric heater.

A couple of photos of the unit and the optional remote switch.
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There are a few more photos in this album:
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
 
We just ran ours for a weekend and I also used it while playing with the active captain app in the boatshed. Nice to have heat anytime at the flip of a switch.

If you end up leaving your heater in the current location, you could always cut a nice hole in the door and pull off the grill of the heater to just let out the heat. Or a short duct extension just to meet up with the hole in the door when closed.

Or you could cut you door in two lengthwise to make it open bi-fold like and allow with air exchange without blocking the walkway. Or.... remove all or part of it, add a bit of nonslip, and make a nice cutting board. It would be easy enough to get a fresh door from the factory to have on hand as a replacement.

Greg
 
Just a quick update on my Wallas 1300 install described above, a new issue, and resolution / lesson-learned that may be worth documenting here for others installing this unit (not sure if it’s exclusive to the 1300 or may also be applicable to other models).

Exactly one month in I’ve happily run the 1300 for a total of about 5 times, with outside temps ranging from mid 30s to mid 40s, and each time it’s done a wonderful job of heating the cabin of the 22, even with the door open as I often prefer to run, with camperback full enclosure all buttoned up.

Monday on the return trip from Friday Harbor, with cabin door closed I noticed it getting a bit chilly inside, reached back and felt the heat coming out of the Wallas was luke warm. I shut it down for a while, switched batteries thinking maybe low voltage, then restarted but this time it was just blowing cold air like a $1500 fan. Next thought was the overtemp shutoff had tripped, but that was not the problem either. The other issue now occurring was the CO alarm in the cabin was going off (!). So I shut it down again and while still on the water I called Scan Marine, spoke to the service tech and after a few questions suggested bringing the whole thing in.

Tuesday I took it into the shop with plans of leaving it there for a repair. However the instant I walked in the door it was apparent to them what the problem was. The kerosene return line (the black tube in the photos above) was too long causing kerosene to back up inside the heater. This tube should be cut off immediately below the cap on the tank, whereas mine went straight down to the bottom of the tank. The installation instructions were not very clear in this regard, and apparently Scan recently received a bulletin from Wallas about cutting this tube as short as possible (even shorter than what they had previously thought to be necessary), because it has caused fouling in many units over the years.

We fired it up on the workbench, now with the shortened return line, and once again it was working as before, blowing out nice warm air. Hopefully that’s all it was…I know for many this example just confirms a distrust for Wallas, and maybe I’m not far behind after this experience. But I remain hopeful because it was my bad on the install, and I really like the quietness, simplicity, low fuel burn, and low amp draw of this heater compared to some of the others.

Finally, it’s worth repeating…if you don’t already have a CO detector in your boat, by all means get one, especially if you are sleeping aboard with a fossil fuel heater running! The thought of this failure occurring in the middle of the night, with no CO detector, was a little unsettling. I know most Brats already have CO alarms, but I also know some others who don’t!

-Mike
 
Mike,
Thanks for the reminder about the CO detector. Nice install--especially like the remote that can be reached from the bunk!! Makes getting up on a cold morning much easier!
 
I installed a Wallas 1300 under the sink on my 22'. I really liked it. I installed about 3 feet of duct to a vent on the floor, but after 15 min. or so, it would self shut off. too much back pressure and heat. I then ran a short duct to the vent installed just above the cabinet door, about waist high, and enjoyed some 12 years of trouble free service. It was still working when I sold that boat last October.
At the suggestion of Scan Marine, I used only Klean Heat for fuel.
I also installed a CO detector, and on overnight winter crab trips had run the heater 30 hours straight. Was nice to get up and see thick frost all over the outside of the boat, and to be warm and dry in the cabin. Now i did haft to have a sweat shirt and wool sox on, but 50 - 55 degrees in the cabin wile it was 30 outside was luxury to me. An added bonus with it installed under the sink, was the first 3 pumps of water to the sink was warm!
I got mine at the Seattle Boat Show, where Scan has a boat show price, save a little $$.
 
Installed the Wallas 1300 today. Utilized the space between the aft facing seat and the hull. Built a bulkhead out of 3/4” plywood that it is mounted to. The fuel tank is in the box under the seat. Plan to install a remote start switch in the vbirth. Thanks for all of the advice on the install. Pics in the album. Ken

Sorry, not very proficient posting photos with the ipad
 
I know that there is some logic that a larger heater than needed is the way to go - maybe and maybe not. The 4k BTU that the little 1300 will take the chill off on most days except for the coldest days of the year. And if it doesn't, you can always supplement heat for a very reasonable amount of money. My stovetop wallas 6.5k BTU keeps us quite warm on most trips. And, if we supplement with the buddy heater (I don't run it while sleeping), it gets Africa hot in the cabin even when it is frigid out, like it will be in 2 weeks for the shrimp opener up here. As far as moisture and foggy windows while running? Sure propane makes some, but with a good fan, the wallas turned on high, and a cracked window, it really hasn't been much of an issue for me. I think you will enjoy having some heat :-)
 
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