This has been discussed before i'm sure but can someone please point me in the right direction for trouble shooting this ******* stove. The stove fan starts when turned on and I can hear the fuel pump trying to pull fuel but after a few minutes the stove just shuts down. I figured glow plug but any info would be helpful so I don't waste any money on this thing. :? Thanks guys!
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Wallas stove troubleshooting
- Thread starter dutch123
- Start date
As always, the Wallas is very picky about getting enough voltage. That's the first thing I'd check. The plug that provides power to the unit can work loose and create issues.
One time after I'd had mine apart it just wouldn't fire. On a whim I blew gently into the fuel tank vent hose to make sure fuel was making it to the pump, it did the trick!
Does the fuel line have any sags or humps where a bubble could cause problems?
One more thing, if you decide to dig out the glowplug remove the unit from the counter and work on it upside down, you can thank me later.
Hopefully a more experienced wallas tech will chime in.
One time after I'd had mine apart it just wouldn't fire. On a whim I blew gently into the fuel tank vent hose to make sure fuel was making it to the pump, it did the trick!
Does the fuel line have any sags or humps where a bubble could cause problems?
One more thing, if you decide to dig out the glowplug remove the unit from the counter and work on it upside down, you can thank me later.
Hopefully a more experienced wallas tech will chime in.
starcrafttom
Active member
Dutch the last time it went to the shop I had the same problem you are having and I got the “check the voltage" run around from everyone including the repair shop. Turns out that it was a bad relay board on the back of the unit. This relay tells the computer if the top is open or not. During start up the computer will ask this relay or switch if it’s ok. If its shorted out the way mine was then it gets no answer and the unit shuts down. It’s the same thing for the glow plug and the fan switch. So you have to take the unit out to get to the switch and then take the back of the unit off, its only two screws. You CAN NOT get the switch board thingy (what is this green soldiered P.O.S. board really called?) from the outside. There are two screw heads on the outside, or so I thought, but they are really small bolts and you have to get inside to get to the nuts. Anyhow take it out and see if it is corroded. Mine was really bad. If you let the crab over boil and hit the top of the stove it all runs right to this board thingy. Hope this helps.
I had a similiar issue. Air bubble in the fuel supply line. I had to restart the stove about six times to reprime the pump.
I also had to tighten the connection where the supply line enters the pump.
I fear I will be cursed like Susan & Tom or Pat & Patti. I love my stove but would consider the anchor alternative if I had to go through what these guys have.
I also had to tighten the connection where the supply line enters the pump.
I fear I will be cursed like Susan & Tom or Pat & Patti. I love my stove but would consider the anchor alternative if I had to go through what these guys have.
Dutch123:
Please contact us (Scan Marine) for troubleshooting issues with your stove. We will need to know the model and age (it should be a 95DU/25 by the vintage of your boat). It will be helpful to know what (if any) light indications are given at the panel when you are trying to start it.
If the stove has not been in to our shop before, you might consider sending it or bringing it in for service. There are parts that wear out and some that just need cleaning on a periodic basis.
If you are a heavy user of your stove, we will recommend installing an hourmeter (we can show you how to connect it). These are available from a variety of places. Some models have an internal one we can read here, but for you to know how many hours you are accumulating, a separate one is needed.
Salt air produces a very hostile environment, particularly to electrical connections. Be sure to check all your wiring connections carefully, a little dialectric grease on some of them can be good preventive maintenance.
We would invite you to visit our web site at www.scanmarineusa.com - the Tech Talk section in particular. Please read the section on shipping your stove if you plan to do so.
We are here M-F, 9-5 except major holidays. Our toll free number is 1-800-606-6665. Talk to Mike in service.
Thank you for using Wallas!
Doug
Please contact us (Scan Marine) for troubleshooting issues with your stove. We will need to know the model and age (it should be a 95DU/25 by the vintage of your boat). It will be helpful to know what (if any) light indications are given at the panel when you are trying to start it.
If the stove has not been in to our shop before, you might consider sending it or bringing it in for service. There are parts that wear out and some that just need cleaning on a periodic basis.
If you are a heavy user of your stove, we will recommend installing an hourmeter (we can show you how to connect it). These are available from a variety of places. Some models have an internal one we can read here, but for you to know how many hours you are accumulating, a separate one is needed.
Salt air produces a very hostile environment, particularly to electrical connections. Be sure to check all your wiring connections carefully, a little dialectric grease on some of them can be good preventive maintenance.
We would invite you to visit our web site at www.scanmarineusa.com - the Tech Talk section in particular. Please read the section on shipping your stove if you plan to do so.
We are here M-F, 9-5 except major holidays. Our toll free number is 1-800-606-6665. Talk to Mike in service.
Thank you for using Wallas!
Doug
It sure is good to hear from Scan Marine. This is the kind of customer service that caused me to buy a 2003 C-Dory and it is the reason I am a champion of Ranger Tug. I don't understand any business in today's climate who does not strive to take what I call the Nordstrom's approach to customer service. Hats off to Scan Marine.
I agree. Because of Scan's post above, I re-visited their website and found it much improved. Despite it's idiosyncracies, there are a lot of us that like the Wallas and depend upon it. I appreciate their participation on the C-Brats' site and look forward to learning more about the tender loving care our little Finnish friends deserve.
Al (the Finn)
Al (the Finn)
Blindbaybob
New member
We have had various questions about our Wallas, and have always been able to get good advice from the people at Scan Marine. When our combustion fan stopped working, they suggested what to try, and when that didn't work, they sent us a new one, completely free, even though our warranty had just run out. Great friendly service!
The other perceived problem we have had, is a plugged fuel intake filter. Cleaning this filter has usually resulted in normal stove operation.
The other perceived problem we have had, is a plugged fuel intake filter. Cleaning this filter has usually resulted in normal stove operation.
starcrafttom said:Dutch the last time it went to the shop I had the same problem you are having and I got the “check the voltage" run around from everyone including the repair shop. Turns out that it was a bad relay board on the back of the unit. This relay tells the computer if the top is open or not. During start up the computer will ask this relay or switch if it’s ok. If its shorted out the way mine was then it gets no answer and the unit shuts down. It’s the same thing for the glow plug and the fan switch. So you have to take the unit out to get to the switch and then take the back of the unit off, its only two screws. You CAN NOT get the switch board thingy (what is this green soldiered P.O.S. board really called?) from the outside. There are two screw heads on the outside, or so I thought, but they are really small bolts and you have to get inside to get to the nuts. Anyhow take it out and see if it is corroded. Mine was really bad. If you let the crab over boil and hit the top of the stove it all runs right to this board thingy. Hope this helps.[/quote
Hi Tom
I recently checked out the P.O.S. board on my stove while trying to solve a different problem. I've been calling it the cooling fan circut board, but not sure that is correct. I think we are talking about the same part, and its possible you might have guessed its correct Finish description. Anyway it had a fair amount of old cooking oil on it. Scan/Mike said to try CRC brand electronic cleaner in spray can, commonly found in auto stores. He said to spray it on until oil is softened then air blast debre off. He said typically they either work or they don't. I know your problem wouldn't have been improved due to corrosion, but thought you might appreciate the tid bit.
Dutch123:
The part you are referring to is the 25 Lid Control Unit. A 95D is typically fitted with a #25 lid assemply and the lid switching function is controlled by the Control Unit (p/n 361018).
The first series of the 85D/270 units (successor to the 95D/25) had their lid switching inside the lid itself. Since early 2008, the newer (current) 85D/270 units have a switching system similar to the 95D/25, with a control board mounted below and near the right side lid hinge. This change also included making the lid captive to the stove assembly, just like the 95D/25.
Doug
The part you are referring to is the 25 Lid Control Unit. A 95D is typically fitted with a #25 lid assemply and the lid switching function is controlled by the Control Unit (p/n 361018).
The first series of the 85D/270 units (successor to the 95D/25) had their lid switching inside the lid itself. Since early 2008, the newer (current) 85D/270 units have a switching system similar to the 95D/25, with a control board mounted below and near the right side lid hinge. This change also included making the lid captive to the stove assembly, just like the 95D/25.
Doug