Screw choice: I use pan head SS sheet metal screws--the wood screws are tapered and not much thread at the upper part of the shank. Occasionally I'll use flat head screws, but usually with footman loops, or other fasteners which have a beveled edge that the flat head sits flush to.
I would be sure all areas are filled with thickened epoxy--not just thin or penetrating epoxy. At this stage you should be able to sound out, with a plastic screwdriver handle (phenolic hammer is the classical surveyor's tool, but the screwdriver handle works as well.) Where there is the delimitation or wet core, you want to remove all of that. Not sure how much that will be--until you have sounded and drilled, etc.
I would glass over what ever were the cleats which held the tanks in place. That way there are no screws necessary. Starboard does not glue well. I have been trying some with "G Flee, and under cutting in a "Y" shape with a Fein type of saw. Seems to be working well. I also flame harden the Starboard with a propane torch.
You can glass in blocks--better than just epoxy under--but I have some blocks which are epoxied to the sides of the hull, and some which are glassed over. Both seem to be doing equally well at this point.
You can buy or make fiberglass "L" brackets You could use Starboard as a form--just put a little wax or teflon on the surface to be sure that the epoxy or polyester resin does not stick. Mold up what you need. If you use glass cloth and mat it will set up fairly quickly--then you can epoxy this to the floor, and have a permanent bracket for the facing boards.
I use heat guns (2 heats/fan speeds)--my wife draws the line at using her hair dryers. Just be sure you open it up enough. If there are large areas then get some core material, and put that in.
Anything you can glass in to screw to, is going to be better than the Balsa Core!
Thank you for asking about my projects--the boat is as ready as it is going to be in the summer of 18! Ready to roll to the Rivers. The side steps came out well, and no evidence of water intrusion. I am not so pleased with the Loctite PL Marine, which was touted to be the same as 3M 4000. I did some of the area where the seal around the removable floor section (fuel tank access) and around the steps turned yellow, and the adhesion to the fiberglass is not as good as I wanted. This area is covered by the Deckadence vinyl loop carpet, and with all of the rain we have had, when I pulled up the Deckadence carpet, There was some moisture trapped in the forward edge of the cockpit. I like the Deckadence; it looks better than the fiberglass cockpit floor. All of the dirt goes thru the vinyl loops, and it is all cleaned up in one short period of time. I pulled the Deckadence, and washed it from both sides, to get any dirt or debris out. After it and the deck was dry, the carpet was re-installed.
I would be sure all areas are filled with thickened epoxy--not just thin or penetrating epoxy. At this stage you should be able to sound out, with a plastic screwdriver handle (phenolic hammer is the classical surveyor's tool, but the screwdriver handle works as well.) Where there is the delimitation or wet core, you want to remove all of that. Not sure how much that will be--until you have sounded and drilled, etc.
I would glass over what ever were the cleats which held the tanks in place. That way there are no screws necessary. Starboard does not glue well. I have been trying some with "G Flee, and under cutting in a "Y" shape with a Fein type of saw. Seems to be working well. I also flame harden the Starboard with a propane torch.
You can glass in blocks--better than just epoxy under--but I have some blocks which are epoxied to the sides of the hull, and some which are glassed over. Both seem to be doing equally well at this point.
You can buy or make fiberglass "L" brackets You could use Starboard as a form--just put a little wax or teflon on the surface to be sure that the epoxy or polyester resin does not stick. Mold up what you need. If you use glass cloth and mat it will set up fairly quickly--then you can epoxy this to the floor, and have a permanent bracket for the facing boards.
I use heat guns (2 heats/fan speeds)--my wife draws the line at using her hair dryers. Just be sure you open it up enough. If there are large areas then get some core material, and put that in.
Anything you can glass in to screw to, is going to be better than the Balsa Core!
Thank you for asking about my projects--the boat is as ready as it is going to be in the summer of 18! Ready to roll to the Rivers. The side steps came out well, and no evidence of water intrusion. I am not so pleased with the Loctite PL Marine, which was touted to be the same as 3M 4000. I did some of the area where the seal around the removable floor section (fuel tank access) and around the steps turned yellow, and the adhesion to the fiberglass is not as good as I wanted. This area is covered by the Deckadence vinyl loop carpet, and with all of the rain we have had, when I pulled up the Deckadence carpet, There was some moisture trapped in the forward edge of the cockpit. I like the Deckadence; it looks better than the fiberglass cockpit floor. All of the dirt goes thru the vinyl loops, and it is all cleaned up in one short period of time. I pulled the Deckadence, and washed it from both sides, to get any dirt or debris out. After it and the deck was dry, the carpet was re-installed.
