Water problem

After thinking about it, I doubt the void would hold enough water to bring the bow down significantly, or if it had that much water in it you'd be seeing water trickling out around that plug...
 
The 22 Sport Cruiser is the Cruiser cabin length without a bulkhead. Inseat of a galley and dinette is had the forward facing seats line an angler, with long bench seats aft of them.

For the record, the 22 Angler's bulkhead is an option. The standard boat is built with the same arrangement as the 19 Angler.
 
As said, the low point is where the "lip" is on your boat. You need to make this lip higher. I would also install a sump aft of the lip. You can either up a pump in this sump (The C Dory 22 cruisers, either have a bilge pump aft, aft of the bulkhead or foreword of the bulkhead, with a step going into the cabin. (This is the way my 2006 boat is rigged--I added a second bilge pump aft in the sump by the stern--the way my 1993 boat was rigged--both are necessary).

You can put a pump in this sump, or you can have a pump off to the side, with a hose to a pickup (Perko-bronze, wedge shaped), with a float switch in the sump.

You might as well do it right--rather than fooling around with "portable" pumps etc.

You also want a slant back cockpit cover--the one I have by King Canvas, does not go all of the way back to the lazarettes thus is not as effective as it should be. I will modify it. A good cockpit cover will keep over 90% of the rain out of the boat.
 
The 19 is likely similar to your boat. On my 19 the floor went from the tanks forward to a raised area for the porta potty. I bonded a small beam or "lip" like Bob says, onto the floor between the back part of the seats to create a "dry zone". This lined up with the back of the cabin to take the drop curtain. It kept water out of the cabin until it was over 2 inches deep which I never saw. The pump between the fuel tanks having pumped it out. My 19 sat nicely just a bit strn low with just a main and no kicker You still want to work on getting the boat up for cruising though. You don't want handling issues. George
 
Again thanks to all reply's. I called C-dory yesterday, and they told me the plug fwd, and under the porti poti was probably from shooting in the floatation when the boat was made, and would hold very little if any water, also tomorrow a canvas shop is comming over to measure for a slant/back cover for the cockpit. This 22ft has the two fwd facing seats for passenger, and helm, and bench seats that run fore, and aft with storage underneath. I will use a tarp for our next rain on thursday, and just hope it doesn't take to long to finish the cover. Until then the SAGA continues......Thanks Grant
 
I have a water in the hull mystery and need help.

Last year I discovered wet foam in the area under the cuddy. There were signs of a bad seal in the anchor locker. I repaired the seal in the anchor locker and repaired the drain. Then I installed a hatch cover in the area ahead of where the porti pottie resides and removed a lot of foam. This spring I got the boat out of storage and installed two additional 8" hatches and removed the rest of the foam. I thought I had solved the water problem as the area was dry. A couple of nights later we had about a 1/2" of rain and the next morning, there was a small amount of water in the compartment. I could not see where it had come from so out comes the garden hose and I ran water over all of the forward deck area for about 15 minutes. went and checked the compartment and its dry with no sign of water intrusion.

Does anyone have any suggestions of where to look for the leak?

Gary
 
What do you mean by a "bad seal" in the anchor locker? The floor of the anchor compartment should be fully glassed off from the rest of the boat, and a hole drilled so that any water entering the anchor locker from the "deck pipe" or hawse pipe, runs out.

Most commonly this water under a bunk or portipotty area is from water in the anchor locker getting into the area under the forward platform.

If it was coming form the hull to deck joint, or a hatch, you would see water on the sides of the interior hull. The water from the anchor locker is more insidious.
 
Dr. Bob,

I guess I used the wrong word in"seal." What was done in the anchor locker was to clean the locker area and then used epoxy (G-Flex) and some glass to raise the "floor" , and fill the vertical joints where the hull meets the inner liner which forms the cuddy platform. I'm not sure I'm explaining this correctly but after I was done, I ran water into the locker and it all drained out like it was supposed to without any water entering the void under the cuddy deck.

I used G-flex as it is somewhat more flexible than the traditional 105 based product.

I hope this is a better explanation than my original post.

Thanks. :cat
 
Just a thought: If there was a leak in the tabbing joint of the locker bottom (which I'm guessing there might have been if you used G-flex to seal it), it's possible that it might have re-opened. G-flex is great stuff, but without tabbing added (i.e. fiberglass cloth reinforcement) to the repair, it may have opened up again. There is only so much strength in "plain" resin to resist something like a crack/joint re-opening (why they tab to begin with).

If you put the G-flex in for some other reason, then... never mind!

Sunbeam
 
Dr. Bob & Sunbeam,

Thank you for your thoughts on my problem. The weatherman was forecasting severe thunderstorms and large hail the other day so we put the boat back in storage. We will get it out and I will take a look at the anchor locker again to make sure my initial fix has stayed fixed.

Thanks Again.

Gary
 
Agree with Sunbeam--you need other structure with any epoxy. For example usually you build up layers of glass cloth with epoxy. You can also put a thickening agent in the other more brittle epoxies. I have only limited experience with G Flex--and that is working with plastics and other materials. Generally I don't use it with cloth, but that does not mean it could not be used as noted in the quote below from West Systems.

A toughened, versatile, liquid epoxy for permanent waterproof bonding of fiberglass, ceramics, metals, plastics, damp and difficult-to-bond woods. With a modulus of elasticity of 150,000 PSI, it is a bit more flexible than standard epoxies and polyester, but much stiffer than adhesive sealants. This gives G/flex 650 the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress of expansion, contraction, shock and vibration. It is ideal for bonding dissimilar materials. It can be modified with West System fillers and additives, and used to wet-out fiberglass tapes and fabrics
Click to expand...

My preference is to build a platform of glass cloth/epoxy (because of better secondary bonding than polyester) in the bottom of the anchor locker. You can then use thickened epoxy to smooth out and fill any irregularities in this floor. There should be little if any movement in this area--thus I don't believe the flexibility offers any advantage.

If there is a very small "hole" where moisture is getting thru--it would take some time for the moisture to show up in the bottom of the boat.
 
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