waxing, polishing, etc.
- Thread starter C-Dude
- Start date
I bought one of those Harbor Freight jobees to polish out some scratches and it worked ok for that but in the end, I ended up polishing and waxing by hand. Maybe it was because I used the string bonnets or maybe it was because I didn't know how to use it properly.
Maybe Joe could give me some pointers or maybe I should by the velcro pads by Makita. Those string bonnets just seemed like a hassle to me. I guess YMMV.
Maybe Joe could give me some pointers or maybe I should by the velcro pads by Makita. Those string bonnets just seemed like a hassle to me. I guess YMMV.
My Mom recently took delivery of her new Tom Cat, "Knoty Lady". It arrived at the shop in Oakland and sat for about three months while it was kittted out. Plenty of industry, railways and airports to develop a substantial layer of fallout.
Having transported the vessel to the new birth in Santa Cruz I suggested it probably needs a good cleaning and a coat of wax. Mom said she got some "cleaner wax" at West Marine. I shuddered. More often than not "cleaner waxes" are more cleaner than wax.
I have been detailing cars for ~20 years. If there's one thing that makes pro detailers wince is "cleaner wax".
Dad and I immediately got on the web to research gel coat preparations. I found Gel Coat Labs which I later found out to be an arm of a well respected company http://properautocare.com. I was actually a bit upset to discover the company wasn't actually a "Lab" that studied gel coat.
Being a factory trained Meguiar's guy from 1988 I was happy to see my folks had chosen a Meguiar's product. Still I was uncomfortable with a "one step" cleaner wax product. They had a bottle of Meguiars #M50 Cleaner wax. I squeezed some into my fingers and was suprized by the lack of abrasiveness and reassured by the emollient quality I have come to admire from nearly all Meguiar's products. The 3M stuff is way too "granular" for most non pro, non body shop guys. Their stuff always makes my hands dry. Meguiar's . . . you're soaking in it.
So I get down to the boat with my whole detailing kit, trash bag full of rags, solvent, claybars, tape . . . B&D 6138 rotary buffer with my full pack of Meguiar's Softbuff foam pads.
http://marinerv.meguiars.com/product/Ac ... es-Machine
I try a bit of the #50 on a spot that appears to have some sort of tree/berry stains with a W8000 pad. It's nice and smooth, not abrasive at all. Doesn't really take the berry stain out at all. Well that's good from what I gather having read all the stuff about not being too aggressive with gelcoat. I turned up the rpm's on the buffer and leaned on it a bit more. Nothing. I now knew that this compound was very gentle and it would be very difficult to damage the surface with this combination of pad and compound.
Technique helped me here in not damaging the surface I expect. I figure about 70% of my buffing was done with one hand, only using the weight of the buffer to grind the gelcoat. This is where the consistency of the product comes into play. It must not be too thick. Water it down or use some quick detailer to loosen it up. see below
In hindsight what I probably should have done was get there alot earlier, wash it with Dawn dish soap, claybar it, and then use a solvent like Pre-Kleano or GROW Super Kleen to really get the fallout and stains removed. Then hit it with a nice coat of liquid wax. Then come back the next day and put another coat of wax on it.
But . . . it was a brand new boat, maybe I didn't get all the stains out but it is now protected. From what I gather, gelcoat is quite soft and those stains should come up in a few months with regular attention.
I also wanted to doctor up the #50 with some cornstarch and water to make a more abrasive cut product but I had left my cornstarch at home. I would have taken about 6 oz. of the #50 into a squeeze bottle, added a couple of nickels or stainless steel nuts/washers, 1 T of cornstarch to test and then add more if needed. Add water to make it loose. The nickels/stainless are there to mix it up.
I also found the #50 to load up the pad after awhile so I just sprayed some quick detailer or water on the pad to loosen it up.
I think I need some help with the "cast" tread in the surface. I've seen specific products but don't really understand how to apply and remove these products and what exactly they are supposed to do . . .
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Jeff
Having transported the vessel to the new birth in Santa Cruz I suggested it probably needs a good cleaning and a coat of wax. Mom said she got some "cleaner wax" at West Marine. I shuddered. More often than not "cleaner waxes" are more cleaner than wax.
I have been detailing cars for ~20 years. If there's one thing that makes pro detailers wince is "cleaner wax".
Dad and I immediately got on the web to research gel coat preparations. I found Gel Coat Labs which I later found out to be an arm of a well respected company http://properautocare.com. I was actually a bit upset to discover the company wasn't actually a "Lab" that studied gel coat.
Being a factory trained Meguiar's guy from 1988 I was happy to see my folks had chosen a Meguiar's product. Still I was uncomfortable with a "one step" cleaner wax product. They had a bottle of Meguiars #M50 Cleaner wax. I squeezed some into my fingers and was suprized by the lack of abrasiveness and reassured by the emollient quality I have come to admire from nearly all Meguiar's products. The 3M stuff is way too "granular" for most non pro, non body shop guys. Their stuff always makes my hands dry. Meguiar's . . . you're soaking in it.
So I get down to the boat with my whole detailing kit, trash bag full of rags, solvent, claybars, tape . . . B&D 6138 rotary buffer with my full pack of Meguiar's Softbuff foam pads.
http://marinerv.meguiars.com/product/Ac ... es-Machine
I try a bit of the #50 on a spot that appears to have some sort of tree/berry stains with a W8000 pad. It's nice and smooth, not abrasive at all. Doesn't really take the berry stain out at all. Well that's good from what I gather having read all the stuff about not being too aggressive with gelcoat. I turned up the rpm's on the buffer and leaned on it a bit more. Nothing. I now knew that this compound was very gentle and it would be very difficult to damage the surface with this combination of pad and compound.
Technique helped me here in not damaging the surface I expect. I figure about 70% of my buffing was done with one hand, only using the weight of the buffer to grind the gelcoat. This is where the consistency of the product comes into play. It must not be too thick. Water it down or use some quick detailer to loosen it up. see below
In hindsight what I probably should have done was get there alot earlier, wash it with Dawn dish soap, claybar it, and then use a solvent like Pre-Kleano or GROW Super Kleen to really get the fallout and stains removed. Then hit it with a nice coat of liquid wax. Then come back the next day and put another coat of wax on it.
But . . . it was a brand new boat, maybe I didn't get all the stains out but it is now protected. From what I gather, gelcoat is quite soft and those stains should come up in a few months with regular attention.
I also wanted to doctor up the #50 with some cornstarch and water to make a more abrasive cut product but I had left my cornstarch at home. I would have taken about 6 oz. of the #50 into a squeeze bottle, added a couple of nickels or stainless steel nuts/washers, 1 T of cornstarch to test and then add more if needed. Add water to make it loose. The nickels/stainless are there to mix it up.
I also found the #50 to load up the pad after awhile so I just sprayed some quick detailer or water on the pad to loosen it up.
I think I need some help with the "cast" tread in the surface. I've seen specific products but don't really understand how to apply and remove these products and what exactly they are supposed to do . . .
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Jeff
FWIW the Black & Decker 6138 is now the DeWalt DW849
I have had two of these buffers in my 20 years of detailing.
My first was a Snap-On model back in 1988.
Somehow the buffer was discontinued by Snap-On an offered by Black & Decker, a 6138 which I still use to this day.
The latest incarnation of this staple buffer is now the DeWalt DW849.
Same buffer, same features, same value.
From proper auto care . . .
http://www.properautocare.com/dew849profhe.html
I have had two of these buffers in my 20 years of detailing.
My first was a Snap-On model back in 1988.
Somehow the buffer was discontinued by Snap-On an offered by Black & Decker, a 6138 which I still use to this day.
The latest incarnation of this staple buffer is now the DeWalt DW849.
Same buffer, same features, same value.
From proper auto care . . .
http://www.properautocare.com/dew849profhe.html
smittypaddler
New member
Be sure to read the label on whatever polish you get, because some of them contain an abrasive. I neglected to read the label on a new polish, but luckily discovered after applying it to a small 6-inch square that it was making the surface dull rather than shiny. Also, I've had good luck using green Lime-Away as a cleaner, though you have to be careful, because it will almost instantly remove any anti-fouling bottom paint it gets on.
Been using Meguiar's M5016 Boat/RV Cleaner Wax
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXMY8 ,
quite happy with the results.
My approach is to do the entire boat prier to winter storage, and by hand. If you do the entire boat by hand switch hands as you go or you’re liable to get tennis elbo..don’t ask me how I know. :sad
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXMY8 ,
quite happy with the results.
My approach is to do the entire boat prier to winter storage, and by hand. If you do the entire boat by hand switch hands as you go or you’re liable to get tennis elbo..don’t ask me how I know. :sad
I brought this topic back up again to see if people were satisfied with their harbor freight buffer that was featured in this post. I did get one response back. Are there any other users out there that would recommend this buffer or should I bite the bullet and spend $150 and get a Porter Cable 7424? :?
The Porter Cable is pretty much the standard now for the enthusiast car detailing market. Never used one myself but they are very popular.
http://www.properautocare.com/porcabpolac.html
http://www.properautocare.com/porcabpolac.html
I have WEN from the 80's. It is like a Timex watch. Overall I am impressed with HF and they stand by their products like Sears and Craftsman hand tools. We have a store in Indy and stopped to pickup some airhose repair parts and irrigation pump for FL. The place was packed and folks were spending their money and not bailout cash. Everything I wanted was gone and bought some carpet cutting blades for $2.39 and left after 3 hrs
If you go to the description of the Porter-Cable machine linked above, there's no real discussion of the machine and how it works, specifications, etc., just a testimony by a user or two.
I Then clicked on the machine package below that, and found this:
"The "Ultimate Detailing Machine". That's what I named the Porter Cable 7424 polisher back in 2000 after I removed the stock foam pad and substituted a professional, flexible backing plate and a European, engineered-foam pad from Lake Country Mfg. This modification of the stock machine totally transformed the flexibility and performance of the 7424 polisher. Our addition of a Velcro® backed, flexible backing plate opened the door for the enthusiast to achieve professional-like results by allowing the use of the same compounding, polishing, glazing and finishing foam pads used by body shops and the world's automakers.
There are now a number of Chinese-made polishers being imported to compete with the Porter Cable 7424. We have decided to stay with the time-tested, Porter Cable machine. The Porter Cable 7424 is UL Approved, has a neutral balance, very little vibration for fatigue-free polishing and the adaptability of changing the counterweight to facilitate larger pads. With tens of thousands (if not hundreds of thousands) of machines in use, the Porter Cable 7424 has withstood the test of time and become a detailing icon.
The Porter Cable 7424 Ultimate Detailing Machine incorporates a random, swirl-free polishing action that will not scratch or burn the paint or clear coat. An electronic variable speed control allows you to adjust the speed from 2,500 to 6,000 OPM. A heavy duty, 3.7 amp motor supplies plenty of torque and the machine is double insulated against shock. The hand grip can be screwed into either side making the
Tech Note: Within the industry, this polisher is classified as an orbital polisher. It is designed to safely apply polish and wax in a manner similar to hand application. It minutes, it creates a mirror-like finish and shine that would otherwise take hours of hand labor. It will not create swirls or remove your car's clear coat finish.
The pad does not rotate in the conventional sense, it oscillates. This "jiggling" occurs at such a high rate that the eye can not see any pad movement. This is normal. This is the way the polisher is designed to work. This polisher is not designed for heavy compounding and may not fully remove scratches, deep swirls or paint imperfections. To completely remove swirls and scratches, consider a professional, circular polisher such as the Makita 9227, or DeWalt 849.
We supply this polisher with a professional, Flexible 6 inch Hook and Loop Backing Plate for quick pad changes and one Closed Cell Structure, Constant Pressure, 6-1/2 inch, White Polishing Pad for general polishing and waxing. These do not come with the basic machine from Porter Cable.
The white, Closed Cell Structure™ pad we include is the current state-of-the-art in foam technology. This technology, which puts a pattern of collapsed "dimples" on the surface of the pad, was developed for the new super-hard, scratch-resistant clear coats but can also be used on conventional paints and clear coats. " LINK
So this machine is a polish specific dual-orbital unit, and not an adapted disc sander, and would be a great polisher, but not suited for heavy compounding.
Joe. :teeth :thup
I Then clicked on the machine package below that, and found this:
"The "Ultimate Detailing Machine". That's what I named the Porter Cable 7424 polisher back in 2000 after I removed the stock foam pad and substituted a professional, flexible backing plate and a European, engineered-foam pad from Lake Country Mfg. This modification of the stock machine totally transformed the flexibility and performance of the 7424 polisher. Our addition of a Velcro® backed, flexible backing plate opened the door for the enthusiast to achieve professional-like results by allowing the use of the same compounding, polishing, glazing and finishing foam pads used by body shops and the world's automakers.
There are now a number of Chinese-made polishers being imported to compete with the Porter Cable 7424. We have decided to stay with the time-tested, Porter Cable machine. The Porter Cable 7424 is UL Approved, has a neutral balance, very little vibration for fatigue-free polishing and the adaptability of changing the counterweight to facilitate larger pads. With tens of thousands (if not hundreds of thousands) of machines in use, the Porter Cable 7424 has withstood the test of time and become a detailing icon.
The Porter Cable 7424 Ultimate Detailing Machine incorporates a random, swirl-free polishing action that will not scratch or burn the paint or clear coat. An electronic variable speed control allows you to adjust the speed from 2,500 to 6,000 OPM. A heavy duty, 3.7 amp motor supplies plenty of torque and the machine is double insulated against shock. The hand grip can be screwed into either side making the
Tech Note: Within the industry, this polisher is classified as an orbital polisher. It is designed to safely apply polish and wax in a manner similar to hand application. It minutes, it creates a mirror-like finish and shine that would otherwise take hours of hand labor. It will not create swirls or remove your car's clear coat finish.
The pad does not rotate in the conventional sense, it oscillates. This "jiggling" occurs at such a high rate that the eye can not see any pad movement. This is normal. This is the way the polisher is designed to work. This polisher is not designed for heavy compounding and may not fully remove scratches, deep swirls or paint imperfections. To completely remove swirls and scratches, consider a professional, circular polisher such as the Makita 9227, or DeWalt 849.
We supply this polisher with a professional, Flexible 6 inch Hook and Loop Backing Plate for quick pad changes and one Closed Cell Structure, Constant Pressure, 6-1/2 inch, White Polishing Pad for general polishing and waxing. These do not come with the basic machine from Porter Cable.
The white, Closed Cell Structure™ pad we include is the current state-of-the-art in foam technology. This technology, which puts a pattern of collapsed "dimples" on the surface of the pad, was developed for the new super-hard, scratch-resistant clear coats but can also be used on conventional paints and clear coats. " LINK
So this machine is a polish specific dual-orbital unit, and not an adapted disc sander, and would be a great polisher, but not suited for heavy compounding.
Joe. :teeth :thup
I have been a loyal user of Collonite 920 (fiberglass cleaner) and 925 (fiberglass boat wax) since I first read about it in this forum. But, last week I pulled the boat out after 2 months in a slip. Since Joes is going out of business I spent a Christmas gift card on miscellaneous stuff there and picked up a bottle of 3M Marine Restorer and Wax. The stufr really works. It's easy to put on, takes away the surface scratches and oxidation, and shines almost as good as the Collonite 925, all in one step! I honestly don't know what it sells for, but I do know that it works.
Old Dusty uses the Porter Cable 7424 and loves it. Joe's write-up tells it all. A family-owned 30-year-old 26 Tolly needs a bunch of TLC right now, so the 7424 will get a real workout.
Used to do this all by hand, but the fingers all point different directions now -- rotary is mo' betta. And I've never found anything better than Collonite 920/925.
And a happy mother's day to all the mother ladies on the Brat site!! :love :love
Dusty
Used to do this all by hand, but the fingers all point different directions now -- rotary is mo' betta. And I've never found anything better than Collonite 920/925.
And a happy mother's day to all the mother ladies on the Brat site!! :love :love
Dusty
This looks like a good system- Shurhold
Special Offer for Alcoast.com Members!
Order Shurhold's Dual-Action Polisher [$149.98] and enter code ACM at checkout to get more than $50 worth of free accessories. You'll get the Pro Polish Compound (16 ounces) and pad for waxing and polishing along with a can of Serious Shine (3.5 ounces) and microfiber towel for spot detailing. May not be combined with any other offer. [/url]
Special Offer for Alcoast.com Members!
Order Shurhold's Dual-Action Polisher [$149.98] and enter code ACM at checkout to get more than $50 worth of free accessories. You'll get the Pro Polish Compound (16 ounces) and pad for waxing and polishing along with a can of Serious Shine (3.5 ounces) and microfiber towel for spot detailing. May not be combined with any other offer. [/url]
billtwymank
New member
***
The following is an E-mail reply from Collinite............
Thanks for your interest in Collinite products. The #870 Liquid Fleetwax is a product that cleans and applies a light coat of wax all in one application. The wax protection from the #870 usually lasts 3-4 months. The #925 Fiberglass Boat Wax is a pure liquid wax that does not contain any cleaning agent. The protection you receive from the #925 usually lasts 6-8 months. What some people will do after washing their boat with soap & water is, apply a coat of #870 first and then come back over it with a coat of #925 for extra protection.
The #845 Insulator Wax is the exact same product as the #925, just different label on the bottle. Both the #925 & #845 can be used on the car or boat.
Mike Oczkowski
Customer Service
Collinite Marine Products
After seeing some of the shinning boats on the Carolina Loop that use these products..........
I will now start using these products on Lady KC.....
***
The following is an E-mail reply from Collinite............
Thanks for your interest in Collinite products. The #870 Liquid Fleetwax is a product that cleans and applies a light coat of wax all in one application. The wax protection from the #870 usually lasts 3-4 months. The #925 Fiberglass Boat Wax is a pure liquid wax that does not contain any cleaning agent. The protection you receive from the #925 usually lasts 6-8 months. What some people will do after washing their boat with soap & water is, apply a coat of #870 first and then come back over it with a coat of #925 for extra protection.
The #845 Insulator Wax is the exact same product as the #925, just different label on the bottle. Both the #925 & #845 can be used on the car or boat.
Mike Oczkowski
Customer Service
Collinite Marine Products
After seeing some of the shinning boats on the Carolina Loop that use these products..........
I will now start using these products on Lady KC.....
***