wet feet

C

cbull

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Does anybody have a good way of getting rid of water in the back of the boat. I have two bilge pumps. They will not pull the water level down that far. Has anyone put scuppers in? Would they work? I have a one inch mat on the deck it helps some. I was in four foot seas the other day and the boat did great. Had to keep it in the twelve knot range. Water coming over bow heading into west wind. The dory surprised me with her performance. My next purchase will definitely be hydraulic steering. :xlol
 
We used Dri Deck, and added 5/8" thick industerial rubber foot pads over the dry deck. Although there are some one way valves, they are not reliable enough to use in the lowest point of the transom of the older C Dory 22. There is too much risk of water coming in.

There are bilge pumps which will clear the water down to fractions of an inch--but they are not the cheap centrifical pumps which most boats have in place. These are diaphragm bilge pumps, which can use a hose and acts like a vacuum to pick up the water. They start at $240 for a 4 gallon a minute to $520 for a 10.8 gallons a minute pump. We found a used $35 Jabsco diaphragm water pump, and disconnected the pressure switch, and put a manual switch on, with a low profile foot attatched by a hose for a pickup.

The centrifical pumps can only pump the water down to about 3/4" deep--the diaphragm pumps can draw it down to about 1/4". This allows all of the water, except that in the sump to be drained out. Also the diaprhagm pump can be remotely mounted, and also used to pull any water out of the cabin or other recesses.
 
Thanks I am going to look at those pumps. Floor boards would be a pain for me. I use the boat mainly for fishing. It would be a pain removing them every trip to clean the floor of blood and fish parts. Seems like scuppers would work. However, you are right they are not real reliable. Seems like they could get stuck open should any trash get in there.
 
Don't think scuppers are a good idea. They would only work if the floor were always above the waterline (self bailing), and that is a weak point with C-Dorys. The floor is at or below the waterline. If you were to install them and a bit of debris caused them to leak, you would quickly flood the boat.
 
On my 07 the floor boards were factory installed permenately. They are glassed to the sides and what appears to be 5200 to the cabin bulkhead. At first I thought this not to be a good idea but there's actually little chance of anything getting under them.
 
Might be the type of bilge pumps you have. I also have two, one under the door step (on a 22Cruiser) and the other at the stern, center, just forward of the transom. They seem to keep the water level down to where the dry can do the rest of the job. I have never had much water in the cockpit, but after a trip to Princes Louisa from Vanc BC, and looking at waves that were bigger than our usual fare, I'm thinking I might want a third, Very high output to help get the water down to managable for the other two in a fairly rapid time span.

One other consideration is to Increase the size and position of the Outboard Well drains, Scuppers there, if you will.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
I ordered Adeline with an optional (in '89) Rule 2000gph bilge pump, float switch, and on/off/auto control. The pump and switch were housed under a cover. However, it wouldn't evacuate the water that accumulated so I removed the pump and float switch and started over. I installed a Jabsco Waterpuppy self-priming pump. The pickup is a Perko Bronze Pump Strainer 208090 (with legs ground down). A Raritan Check Valve resides between the pickup and the pump to prevent backflow.
After a night of rain I may have up to 2 inches of water that settles up against the bulkhead. This setup removes it all .
pump_1.sized.jpg
 
The potential problem with the waterpuppy pump is that it is a vane pump, and if run dry it can damage the impeller. As long as you immediately stop the pump when it is dry it will be OK (the same holds true for the macerator pumps) The diaphragm pumps will not be damaged by running dry. We carried water puppy pumps (with nitrile impellers) on our long distance boats, as back up for cooling pumps (engine, genset, refigeration etc, as well as fuel or oil transfer. The theory is the same for the diaphragm and the water puppy. The question is where water is most likely to collect--aft in the sump, when underway, or foreward at rest, and I suspect with this setup, you left the aft pump for underway, and use the water puppy when at anchor and weight is foreward, allowing water to run toward the cabin door.
 
The diaphragm pumps will not be damaged by running dry.
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This is true. As I recall the waterpuppy was selected because it was physically the shortest and would fit under the factory cover for a nice clean installation. I've been very happy with the life of the vanes. Over 15 years on the original impeller and still going strong.
I suspect with this setup, you left the aft pump for underway, and use the water puppy when at anchor and weight is foreward, allowing water to run toward the cabin door.
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Precisely !
 
cbull":2934ilis said:
Does anybody have a good way of getting rid of water in the back of the boat. I have two bilge pumps. They will not pull the water level down that far. Has anyone put scuppers in? Would they work? I have a one inch mat on the deck it helps some. I was in four foot seas the other day and the boat did great. Had to keep it in the twelve knot range. Water coming over bow heading into west wind. The dory surprised me with her performance. My next purchase will definitely be hydraulic steering. :xlol
Click to expand...

If I didn't go out in 4 foot seas where I go, then I would never go.....But to answer your question, the very best way to get rid of that tiny amount of water that accumulates from bringing fish over the side is a square laundry soap bucket. The pumps don't get it out - you're right. I have found that it only takes 30 seconds or so a couple of times a day and it is gone. Also, the price is right too :)
 
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