Randy-
To compile a complete list of what to look for would be a daunting task, so the best approach would be to let each member contribute a few or several ideas and hope that the complete thread would approach a full list of considerations.
I'll start with a few:
1. Hull: The C-Dory hulls are structurally very sound, and will last for lifetime if taken care of. However, here are some things to look for.
Look at the whole hull, but especially the transom and the joint between the cabin bulkhead and the gunnels for stress cracks. Very fine lines may indicate cracks in only the gelcoat, whereas larger ones you can get a thin coin into or larger often indicate structural damage to the fiberglass layers underneath.
What shape is the finish (gelcoat) in? Generally, oxidation can be rubbed out and polished. Scratches can be filled with gelcoat (a more difficult procedure) and buffed out.
What shape is the bottom of the hull in? Does it have bottom paint? Will it have to be refinished or repainted for your use? What will it cost?
2. How about exposed teak or other wood on the external and internal surfaces. Teak, such as on cabin top handles, can be refinished at some cost and labor, or simply replaced with new wooden handles. The internal Decragard (Formica like) plastic cabinet finishes (when present on older boats) can be refinished with urethane or other coatings. The rear door can be plastic (Starboard) or Decraguard. If the later, it can be refinished or painted with some effort.
3. What is the type, age, and condition of the motor(s)? The obvious best is to have a late model 4-stroke fuel injected motor of adequate horsepower to make the boat perform easily when fully loaded. An underpowered boat will be a pain to use, plus difficult to sell later. Carburetored 4-strokes are also good bets; just more difficult to start in very cold weather. 2-stroke motors are still serviceable, but less so if you are highly concerned with reliability such as for offshore use, and are not allowed on some inland lakes. How many hours are on the motor(s)? 2-cycle motors can have a lifetime of 600-1200 hours or more, whereas 4-strokes routinely last 2000 hours or more. The total price will definietly reflect the motor (s) on a used boat.
4. What type of electronics are on the boat, how old are they, and will they meet your needs?
Do you need the latest electronic technology for the way you will use the boat, or are some older units OK? Nothing on a boat depreciates faster than the electronics. New and more capable units are constantly evolving and outdating and gradually making obsolete the previous generation. If the electronics aboard will work for you, fine. If it all or partially has to be replaced, figure that into your cost equation. When boat dealers figure out the value of a used boat, they often assign $0 (zero) value to outdated or obsolete electronic components. The used boat price should reflect all of this.
5. Look at the wiring and batteries. Have they been kept up and serviced, or are they a mess and unreliable? Do you see any corrosion on wiring or terminals? A boat can be entirely rewired, but at considerable expense and only be a very competent person. What will it take to make the boat fully serviceable for your needs?
6. Try out all the electronics, appliances, lighting, plumbing, bilge pumps, etc. Do they all work, or what will it cost to fix or replace them? Does the boat have all the options you think you will need, or will you have to add them yourself, and at what expense?
7. Does the boat have a trailer? Single or dual axle? Is it painted, galvanized, or aluminum/stainless? How about the tires and brakes, including the actuator? Are the bunks and/or rollers in good shape? How about the lights? The winch? How much will you have to spend on making it roadworthy?
8. Does the boat have a Bimini top or complete cockpit enclosure? What shape is it in? How about a mooring or storage cover? Window covers? Will you have repair or replacement costs, or will you have to add some of these items?
9. Check out the anchor, bow roller, rode, and windlass, if so equipped. Will you have to repair or modify any of these items? Is there a second anchor and rode? How about mooring lines, etc? How about a boat hook and fenders?
10. Don't forget to evaluate the upholstery, seating hardware, and dinette condition. Are any repairs or replacements necessary? How about the sleeping cushions and arrangements? Is everything suitable and in good shape?
THREE OTHER POINTS OF ADVICE:
A. If you're unfamiliar with boats in general, or C-Dories in particular, take a "friend" along to help you evaluate everything. A person who has owned a similar boat for a year or more will put a real "PRO" in your corner that can spot things you'll easily miss. It's easy to find someone to help you out because it's fun for everyone! Just ask here!
B. Go to the "Forums" listed in the "Library" and look at the
Market Place Reference to compare prices with previous ads asking prices. Do some homework!
C. Any really good C-Dory at a bargain price will be snapped up quickly. To be prepared, get you money or financing all lined up so you can act
ASAP! You should also already have decided how far you will be willing to travel and at what expense.
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Others will add specific caveats regarding certain C-Dory models, like watching for leaking bow rails and stem guards, but this should be a start for you.
Good Luck!
Joe. :teeth :thup
I've poked around the forums for the last couple of days and still have several questions.