white light wiring; both running AND anchor?

L

localboy

New member
I have an interesting layout. I have the stock, factory Perko anchor light on the front of the cabin top. I also have another 360 degree white light on the top of my radar arch that is wired as the running light. I'd like to make the radar arch light both my running and anchor light, thus eliminating the Perko one on the front of the roof. Possible? If so, how?
 
Mark,

There is a diode that is between the anchor light switch and the running light switch that keeps power from going to your running lights when the anchor light switch is thrown. My suspicion is that on the running light switch you have wiring for port, starboard and white lights. All you should need to do to get the light on the arch to function as your anchor and running light is to move its wire to the anchor light switch.

Personally, I would leave the wire for the Perko in place, too. That way you could use either light.

The CDory owners manual has a schematic that shows how things are wired.

Steve

(oh, and Hauula boys rule... :-))
 
To the best of my limited knowledge the anchor light should not be on under way. should someone think you are moored and not paying close attention there could be a problem.
 
The anchor light acts as the all around white light (which is a combnation of steaming and stern lights) when under way.

We're really getting into the rules and regs today! :wink:
 
Mark, the socket just behind the eyebrow up front and the socket on the arch should be wired the same . You can use one or the other. I always use the one on the arch and have the forward socket capped off. You should be able to put the all around light/anchor light in the arch and control them with the switches on your panel. This is how mine is wired.
 
Anna Leigh":xqreaapj said:
Mark, the socket just behind the eyebrow up front and the socket on the arch should be wired the same . You can use one or the other. I always use the one on the arch and have the forward socket capped off. You should be able to put the all around light/anchor light in the arch and control them with the switches on your panel. This is how mine is wired.
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That's what I'm aiming to replicate, David. Just one light for both needs and I can cap off the front socket. They are wired seperately. Ask Matt. I'll take a look at wiring diagrams and actual wires once I have some time. Electrical is NOT my forte', even when I work on my cars. I find it frustrating; I think I lack the patience. :? :thdown

I began thinking about this today. I was in Fisheries Supply and was looking at replacing the bulb with an LED unit, only to realize I had to get this solved before I make a purchase.
 
Most of the C Dories have a double throw switch. One way, there is power to the foreward red and green running lights, and the all around white light (allowable rather than separate stern and steaming lights in small craft). The other position of the switch, gives power only to the all around white light (anchor position). It is the same light. You can trace out the wiring and see where they go--but as noted they should be the same.
 
flrockytop":b88eq4g5 said:
thataway":b88eq4g5 said:
Most of the C Dories have a double throw switch. .
Click to expand...


I think that for at least the last couple of years C-Dory has gone with the two sperate switch setup with the diode.
Click to expand...

My '07 is set up like Dr. Bob wrote
Most of the C Dories have a double throw switch. One way, there is power to the foreward red and green running lights, and the all around white light
Click to expand...

I think all I'll need to do is run the third wire from the front light to the rear light.
 
I will confirm that Mark's boat is wired with the brow all around coming on with running lights, and the arch all around in anchor mode.

I thought it was an odd way to wire the boat, but i don't build them, so figured there must be a reason for the set up.
 
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