WHY THE C-DORY GODS MADE TANDEM TRAILERS!!

C

Captains Cat

New member
RIGHT FRONT BLOWOUT AT 60MPH!

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PICK YOUR SPOT FOR A BLOWOUT!!

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THIS IS THE INSIDE TIRE WALL! BOTH SIDES WENT!!

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No damage, other than the tire! :roll: Will post the entire story on the Little Loop Thread as soon as I get done worrying about IRENE!! :disgust

Charlie
 
Hey Charlie, blow outs are always scary. It looks like it happened in a real safe place, too. NOT! How old was that tire? 5 year max on all trailer tires if you want to avoid problems.
 
Hind sight is great!

Dr. Bob asked if I wanted to replace them, after looking at them, about 5 yrs old, 500 miles (and they went 500 more before "pow") and in great visual shape, I made the decision not to. The boat is a little far forward on the trailer and the tongue weight is probably too high, hence both front tires failed, thankfully not at the same time. Dr. Bob graciously sent me enough $ to buy 4 new Marathons, he didn't have to, it was "as is, where is" on the Bill of Sale. In truth, I'd have done the same thing for someone, may still have to when the "CAT", sells.

Charlie
 
Charlie,
You might want to try some of the Carlisle radials. They might even be made in America. For me they were a lot better than the may pops or gonna pops I took off. They ride a lot nicer than the bias ply stuff.
D.D.
 
I won't horn in on Charlie's story, but will add a few comments. I have run large RV's for many years--and there is some disagreement about when to replace "like new" tires--which ranges from 5 to 7 years. I have run some high pressure RV tires 7 years and over 50,000 miles, with no ill effect--on the other hand have had tires newer than 5 years blow out on both RV's and Trailers. As Charlie noted, I asked if he wanted me to replace the trailer tires. They had less than 500 miles on them, had been in mostly shaded areas, and showed no evidence of side wall checking or cracking. (There was one trip from Apalachicola to Pensacola--about 200 miles max, and two trips to service center--about 50 miles each.

The tires were 5 years and 4 months old according to date stamps. They were inflated to 80 PSI, Max for those tires, and rated for about 3400 lbs each tire. I did forget to check the air in the spare. However, they were an off brand tire and what came on the Float On trailer. Boat trailer tires have a bad reputation. They normally have stiffer side walls, because of trailer "scrub" as the back or front tires don't track equally as you make a sharp turn.

I had owned the Ford Excursion for over 6 years and it had the same tires on as when I purchased it. (one had been replaced because of a slow leek)--and I could not see the date code on the outside of the tire. So to be safe I did replaced the tires on the Excursion. The Tom Cat had not had axle weights, nor tongue weights done. (to my recollection) We had discussed moving the forward support back, and thus the boat back. (To do this means that the spare tire and carrier have to be removed, and moved back, as well as the rear part of the front support moved back of the eyebolt which chains down the bow.

I also offered Charlie a weight distribution hitch--which I had bought and used with the C Dory 25. I had not yet fitted it to the C Dory trailer, and it may have involved drilling a couple of holes or moving the tongue jack. This particular hitch works well with surge brakes.

In retrospect I should have just replaced the trailer tires--and felt badly that Charlie had the blowouts.

Bottom line--even if the trailer tires look good, have no checking, and are over XX years old--if any question; then they should be replaced.
 
I think the real problem is the poor quality of the Chinese trailer tires that have been poured into the US. As far as I can tell there is no longer a domestic trailer tire made. The trailer tire with the best reputation is Maxxus made in Taiwan. Age of the tire obviously plays a role but I think the main culprit for most people who are putting miles on their trailers is the poor build quality of most of the available trailer tires.

Thinking of your guys on the East Coast
Eric
 
Eric,
I tend to agree with you, looking at the type of "blow out" on the tire. Remember this is a tire which showed no evidence of side wall rot or checking. It looks as if rubber and casing separation on the side--and some tread/belt damage on the running surface.

My Caracal trailer has tires which are only 4 years old and less than 1000 miles --and show some cracking just below the tread.]. It is only run about 2 miles to launch, but I will replace them. These are Trail America tires--the Spare is Carlisle--and no cracking. I will probably replace the trailer tires--even with the short drive.
 
Charlie,

Sure glad nobody got hurt. Blowout is never fun, just some are more dangerous than others.

Might be a good time here for the tire Bob from Bend, to jump in here and set us straight.

Sounds like the C-Brat reputation of doing the right thing is continuing here. What an awesome group.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
I would move up to the maximum load range tire available in that rim size... and maybe even consider the next larger rim/tire that will fit the hub...

Then I would have someone drive next to me at highway speed and observe how the tires are behaving... Any excessive flex, wobble, etc... Then go for a run and stop every 20 miles and use the infrared thermometer gun to check the heat on each tire...
 
Trailer tires...............

My boat was purchased in Fla. after it set in the sun from 2005 to 2010 on the original tires. The transporter towed it 3200 miles to Wenatchee, Wash. in 54 total elapsed hours. He was NOT sight seeing, pedal to the metal all the way. The tires were all original Chinese made with a pressure rating of 65 psi. My tires had anywhere from 28 lbs to 35 lbs. and the spare had 10 psi. One tire had the tread come loose over 12 " but stayed together. All were weather checked and cracked. I replaced two with GY Wranglers but they were made in China also. The other two made it all the way to Ninilchik, Alaska (another 2500 miles) and I used them until this summer when one blew out. I replaced the other two then. The spare is still an original and cracked.

My point is that I always thought that Chinese tires were plain crap. My experience tells me otherwise. I would not knowingly buy those cheapy tires but some of them are pretty tough.
 
Levitation":x3mc53p6 said:
I would move up to the maximum load range tire available in that rim size... and maybe even consider the next larger rim/tire that will fit the hub...

Then I would have someone drive next to me at highway speed and observe how the tires are behaving... Any excessive flex, wobble, etc... Then go for a run and stop every 20 miles and use the infrared thermometer gun to check the heat on each tire...
Click to expand...

Denny, these tires were GoodYear Marathons, ST 235/80 R16's, Load Range E 10Ply. I don't think they come any beefier. And we did check bearing temps but not tire temps with an IR gun. But right after the blowouts, we did and they were NOT hot. Believe the big problem here was weight distribution, boat too far forward (Dr. Bob had recommend a load leveling hitch, I declined), he had also recommended replacing tires (again I declined, they looked so good). They, like the rear tires on the EXCURSION were at 80PSI which is the max.

This proves two things to me.

1. Listen to Dr. Bob
2 See the above

:lol: :mrgreen:

Hunkered down safely in a Marriott near Richmond Airport, having escaped IRENE and a lot of falling trees yesterday on the coast. Heading for San Diego at noon for 4 days of Symposium and presentation of a paper on Tuesday. Things have gotta calm down! I told our renters that I'd give them a $50 credit for Irene but had to charge them a $50 surcharge for the 5.8 Roller Coaster Ride they had last Tuesday (or was it Monday :?: )

More from the wifi on the plane!! :lol: :mrgreen: First class mileage upgrade from Atlanta to San Diego.... Woo Hoo!! :beer :cocktail

BTW, the kind Dr. Bob sent me a check for 4 new Marathons which he did NOT have to do. Bill of Sale read "as is, where is". He and Marie are #1 in our book!! :thup :love

Charlie
 
I had made sure that Charlie had an IR thermometer, but I had not mentioned getting tire temps (I do that on the RV and trailer tires). I also have pressure sensors on the valve stems of my RV and Toad (Honda pilot I tow), which read out in the RV. Charlie said that the tires did not feel hot when they changed them.

I believe that load range e (3400 to 3500 lbs) is max for this size tire. The axle is only rated for 6000 lbs. You might find some LT (Light Truck tires) which were slightly more in the 16" heavy duty rims--and that can be run at 110 PSI. A quick look at most tire sites did not find a higher load rating than "E" even for the largest tire which would fit on the 6.5" rim. However, I think the weight distribution, weighing the trailer: each axle, and tongue weight. When Charlie gets back he can check and see if there is a scale weight on this trailer by looking in the glove box for a scales ticket, but my recollection is that I didn't get one. I believe it was the C Dory 25 that I weighed.

Looking at the plane schedules, it looks as if he is going to get his flight out of Richmond!
 
AND NOW, FOR THE REST OF THE STORY!!

Launched THATAWAY yesterday AM. She likes the Potomac/Ches Bay!! Before I did, I went to a local truck scale, we're a farming community so there are several to choose from, no charge no waiting at any of them, unless a truck filled with corn is ahead of you...

Weight of Ford Excursion Diesel Tow vehicle #7120 :disgust

Total Weight of TC 255, 3/4 fuel/water, no people but all accessories including trailer #10280

Trailer Weight Empty #1900

Boat Alone (do the math...) #8380

Tongue Weight #1280

The latter number seems a bit high at over 10% which, I'm sure, contributed to the blowouts on I-85.

Being a Float-ON Aluminum trailer, adjustment of the Tongue Weight is simple. I have just got to move the bow support aft some number of inches. The trick is, how many inches?? :?

Any suggestions for calculations? I don't want to put it back on the trailer to see if I'm right, just want to BE right the next time I have to. I'm thinking 6". My bride agreed and said that 6" seemed about right to her!! :oops:

Not sure what she meant, or am I?? :crook :rose

Ideas w/o snide comments.... :?: :idea: Oh heck, go ahead Tom! :mrgreen:

Charlie
 
Charlie, I don't know how far to adjust your bow bar, but I can attest to just how scientific the calculations are. When I got my CD25 I towed it up to Les at EQ with my little Jeep Cherokee. Tongue weight seemed fine and it towed good. When I went back to get it I had a new Dodge 3500. We coupled the trailer and Les said, "Hmm. The back of the truck didn't move - needs more tongue weight." He moved the front stand ahead a bit, picked up the back of the boat with a Hyster and a wood block, and I cranked it ahead on the trailer with the winch. Then he jacked the tongue up, set it back down on the ball, and said, "That looks good." I have been towing it that way ever since.

I have a theory.. Using an infrared temp gun, check the hubs temps after a good tow. If the front hubs are within a few degrees of the rear hubs, the balance fore/aft is good. If they are the same side to side, then the boat is centered on the trailer. I know the side to side temp check is accurate because I have seen it coincide with the boat being visibly off center a few times. I'm guessing Les got the boat sitting in the right spot, because the front/rear temps are always within a few degrees. While you do want a load on the hitch, I think the load centered in all directions over the axles is the best situation, with a slight bias toward the tongue. Hub temp is a good way to watch that.
 
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