Windlass Switch Location?

[Desert Dory]

I'm getting ready to wrap up my windlass install and currently trying to figure the best place to mount the rocker switch. So far I like this location best for a couple of reasons.

1. I've used this socket twice since we've had the boat. Once for the spot light and once to charge my handheld VHF. Note: I'll be adding another socket lower on the bulkhead (probably) to power the fridge so I figure I can just as easily add a dual port socket.

2. And this is probably the biggest reason, I can easily reach the switch thru the open side window if needed. Note: Our forward center window does NOT open.

3. Easy enough to enlarge the existing hole to fit the switch.

4. Windlass switch plate will cover the existing screw holes.

Can you guys see any reason to NOT mount it there? Bad idea to have it on the throttle hand side? Better location somewhere else?

 

[Knipet]

I think access to the switch when your on the foredeck might have some good utility like when needed to "dip" the anchor back in the water to wash the mud off.
However, I would caution you to make absolutely sure it can't be accidentally bumped, like when reaching out the window from the helm when putting out your fender or midship line. Otherwise nice work!

 

[TyBoo]

That will work!

Even with it on the same side as the controls you should be able to operate it with your left hand so your right hand is free for the throttle if you should need to power up toward the anchor briefly.

I would suggest also putting the breaker for the windlass circuit in a spot that is easily accessed. If the toggle should get bumped while underway you will want the breaker to be off so the anchor stays put.

I mounted the controls for my windlass above the windshield with the breaker and a power indicator light alongside the switch.

I will look for a pic in my albums.

 

[TyBoo]

Here is where I have it mounted in a small box I made for it. That is an electronic line counter between the switch and the breaker.

 

[colbysmith]

Cool Mike. Never even thought to put the windlass switch up there. Midnight Flyers switch was located just beneath the helm. Out of the way, and can use either hand to easily run it. And I never had any issues with the knees there. It worked well, so when I installed a windlass on C-Traveler, I ended up putting it in the same position. Now, more importantly, tell us about that line counter! Sure would make life a lot easier than catching and counting the 20 foot tape markers as they go out! Colby

 

[Desert Dory]

Great feedback gents! You got me thinking.

@Mike It seems they always recommend installing the breaker close to the battery and my battery is in the starboard lazarette. I like the idea of having it close by though. Thoughts?

@Steve Good point on possibly bumping the switch. The supplied switch is somewhat recessed in the housing with a smallish edge around it, which seems sufficient, but I have an idea to put a couple of guards around it. I'll have to find what I'm looking for in my parts box and post it up for thoughts.

 

[TyBoo]

You are right about keeping the breaker close to the battery. In my case, the power is taken from a power lug behind the helm that is protected with a 100 amp breaker near the batteries, so the run from there to the switch is short. If you are running your power all the way from the batteries in the back then a breaker at the source is a must. There is no rule against an additional circuit interrupter, however.

Also, my switch is the older style heavy duty toggle that directly feeds the windlass rather than operating a relay like the newer Lewmars use. Since it was already wired I left that switch in service when I replaced the windlass with what looks to be the same one you have.

Sorry, Colby, that line counter is top secret and there are only four like it in the world. But you can build your own quite simply with a 12v digital counter, a magnet on the windlass gypsy, and a reed switch that gets flagged by it. It counts revolutions of the gypsy, the circumference of which is pretty close to 4 times Pi, and that is close enough to a foot for a general reference.

Here's the first one that came up on Amazon.

 

[Knipet]

...on possibly bumping the switch. The supplied switch is somewhat recessed in the housing with a smallish edge around it, which seems sufficient, but I have an idea to put a couple of guards around it. I'll have to find what I'm looking for in my parts box and post it up for thoughts.

Perhaps see if bumping it is really an issue. I really like Mike's suggestion of having the breaker near the switch, but since your's and many others are back near the batteries, install a second breaker that is quickly accessible at the helm? Good safety item.

 

[thataway]

I have always had a breaker aft near the battery, and a second breaker somewhere near the helm; either outboard of the windlass switch, or even back of the controls, on the foreword facing bulkhead of the galley counter.

I keep the helm windlass breaker off unless we are taking the anchor rode in or out. I don't want the switch accidentally tripped.

The place you have located looks good. My switches have been mostly on the starboard side of the helm. It is easy to using the left hand if necessary to run the switch. But usually it is bump the throttle, boat moves forward, and then bring in rode. I have never used a switch thru the window...

 

[colbysmith]

Sorry, Colby, that line counter is top secret and there are only four like it in the world. But you can build your own quite simply with a 12v digital counter, a magnet on the windlass gypsy, and a reed switch that gets flagged by it. It counts revolutions of the gypsy, the circumference of which is pretty close to 4 times Pi, and that is close enough to a foot for a general reference.

Well darn. :lol: But I may have to look into that amazon one sometime. Now I'm curious how you have yours set up. Got any photos that show how things are put together or hooked up at the windlass? Ie, where and how the magnet is attached and where the sensor is attached? Or am I delving into more top secrets now? Colby

 

[chromer]

Does anyone have a fob or app to work with their windlass in addition to legacy switch?

 

[Molly Brown]

I just installed one. Not cheap but I should have done it years ago. We almost always back in to shore and when alone I would have to run back and forth to the helm, or, if working on the bow I'd have to reach in from the helm window to adjust. It a simple straight forward install. I chose to install the wireless unit at the relay but you can cut in at the switch or anywhere along the switch wiring run. The Lewmar kit did not come with it's on wiring but since it is past the relay, less than 3 amp draw, you don't need heavy wiring. Looking forward to being able to pull the boat off the shore from shore. I haven't had it long enough to say what kind of range it has but the wireless unit could be installed anywhere on the boat. The higher the better I presume but for now mine is mounted behind the helm with all the other wiring.

James

 

[TyBoo]

Well darn. :lol: But I may have to look into that amazon one sometime. Now I'm curious how you have yours set up. Got any photos that show how things are put together or hooked up at the windlass? Ie, where and how the magnet is attached and where the sensor is attached? Or am I delving into more top secrets now? Colby

Naw, no secret really. To tell you the truth that $17 Amazon setup complete with sensor is probably better than the stuff mine is made of. It is an old school LCD counter with its own internal battery that gets replaced every few years. I got four of the things from work years ago when the machinery they were in was junked. The other three were given away and may or may not be in service still. I got my counters for nothing back when the mill still let us have scrap, but I priced the part number in the storeroom and they were close to three hundred bucks. The Amazon setup for less than twenty looks even better!

The magnet is encased in epoxy putty and sealed inside one of the holes in the gypsy nut (red circled) and the reed switch is clamped with a wire strap by the screw in the other circle. If the wind and rain lets up I will go down to the boat for a real picture.




With my counter, all I needed is a pair of small gauge wires from the switch to the counter input since it has it's own power. A 12vdc unit like the Amazon one would need power supply wires also. I used a real strong button type magnet and every time it rotates past the switch it sends the signal.

Here is a closeup I found in my album of the control setup. You can see from the worn off print on the switch plate how much use it gets. And hey, if you want to get really gimmicky and like gadgets as much as I do, put a video camera inside the anchor locker to watch the rode as it piles up while retrieving. Mine feeds the video to the big Garmin display.

 

[TyBoo]

Desert Dory - let me know if the thread hijack bugs you and I can split the line counter post off to a new topic. I feel bad about it already, but hey, they said no rules.

 

[Desert Dory]

Desert Dory - let me know if the thread hijack bugs you and I can split the line counter post off to a new topic. I feel bad about it already, but hey, they said no rules.

Lol... No worries Mike. It's all good info.

 

[colbysmith]

Thanks Mike. This may be a new project for me! Colby