window fogging and shallow water alarms
- Thread starter colobear
- Start date
I've battled the fog with my new boat. We bought the fans reccommended here and it helped. We also ran the Wallas non-stop. It's still a constant battle when it's rainy and foggy outside.
Has anyone tried the ceramic heater from west marine??
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...3/0/0/defogger/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0
Has anyone tried the ceramic heater from west marine??
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...3/0/0/defogger/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0
John S,
I tried it. Took about 15 minutes to clear a couple of inches of window. Never did clear the whole thing, and that was sitting in the driveway, one person in cabin, with the heater outlet just about touching the window.
IMHO. Not worth the two holes I put in the boat to mount it. Much too Wimpy.
Merv
I tried it. Took about 15 minutes to clear a couple of inches of window. Never did clear the whole thing, and that was sitting in the driveway, one person in cabin, with the heater outlet just about touching the window.
IMHO. Not worth the two holes I put in the boat to mount it. Much too Wimpy.
Merv
Yep... I still like by big ol 20" box fan. Moves air, a lot of air with 3 dial settings, keeps things clear, and, works great in the cockpit as to keep insects blown away from you while enjoying a nice sun-downer/sun set or just sitting about the dock area. I had the two hard wired fans and they made more noise than clearing action..
I have used the little ceramic heater fans from the auto supply shops and RV places. Each uses alot of juice. I took an extended winter trip in my motorhome and, once on the highway at near zero temps, the motorhome's defroster became worthless. I hooked up three of the little ceramic heaters to do a huge Class A RV windshield. I would guess one would do a window and a half on a 22 CD. They are nice for when you are freezing cold also, as are the portable 12V seat heaters if you do alot of winter boating. John
two more things here.....
1- I used an old Interphase "Probe" , forward sensing sonar for years on my houseboat. If you are going slow, there is plenty of warning before you run aground. It is really good for following a shelf, drop off, or submerged channel. They now have the "Scout" and the (C-180) which look to the sides ahead in addition to the straight vertical ahead. Around here, even if on the Gulf of Mexico, there are sand and mud bars galore and they shift postition so you cannot rely on charts to avoid them. I am planning to put one on my C-Ranger.
2- Rainex I think might help also with the fogging. The main thing that causes fogging outside is if the glass is colder than the air, or moving fast in high humidity. Of course, inside fog is breath and combustion byproducts. In a pinch, you can just "Spit" on the windshield and rub it around. The mucous makes an emergency surface tension reduction. If it is cold out, the little ceramic heater fans (12V) will create a patch of clear glass, but not enough air to clear an entire windscreen.
John
1- I used an old Interphase "Probe" , forward sensing sonar for years on my houseboat. If you are going slow, there is plenty of warning before you run aground. It is really good for following a shelf, drop off, or submerged channel. They now have the "Scout" and the (C-180) which look to the sides ahead in addition to the straight vertical ahead. Around here, even if on the Gulf of Mexico, there are sand and mud bars galore and they shift postition so you cannot rely on charts to avoid them. I am planning to put one on my C-Ranger.
2- Rainex I think might help also with the fogging. The main thing that causes fogging outside is if the glass is colder than the air, or moving fast in high humidity. Of course, inside fog is breath and combustion byproducts. In a pinch, you can just "Spit" on the windshield and rub it around. The mucous makes an emergency surface tension reduction. If it is cold out, the little ceramic heater fans (12V) will create a patch of clear glass, but not enough air to clear an entire windscreen.
John
Colo.... one more thought.... prob the best bet if the fog was on the inside is to open as many windows as possible (I know it is raining) to let the human breath and inside humidity out of the cabin. The cause of the fogging is more humidity inside than outside and/or a cool window glass. Even a fan won't help much if you don't get the water vapor level down. John
John S..... Forgetting any nautical experience and looking at my experience as a dentist trying to look thru tiny fogged mirrors, here is what works in the dental office:
1- Best is to warm the mirror. A warm mirror will not fog inside the mouth. So, I wonder if some type of contact heater could actually warm your windshield up there in Alaska.
2- Blow air on the mirror. Air clears the fog off a small area and only as long as the blown air is dryer than the air fogging the mirror. i.e., just blowing a fan on the window probably won't help much unless the air is drier than the atmospheric air, or heated?
3- Surface tension reduction with chemicals. Soap works good as well as the others, but the film and streaking are problems.
4- Auto window defrosters only work well if they blow heated/ dried air from the air conditioner. i.e., the A/C unit dries the air, then it is heated, then blown on the windshield. So, you could buy an A/C unit and a generator to run it, to cool that Alaskan air before you heat it, then blow it on the window!
5- Whatever happened to those old, cheap heaters that dried the air so much your throat croaked like a frog?
John
1- Best is to warm the mirror. A warm mirror will not fog inside the mouth. So, I wonder if some type of contact heater could actually warm your windshield up there in Alaska.
2- Blow air on the mirror. Air clears the fog off a small area and only as long as the blown air is dryer than the air fogging the mirror. i.e., just blowing a fan on the window probably won't help much unless the air is drier than the atmospheric air, or heated?
3- Surface tension reduction with chemicals. Soap works good as well as the others, but the film and streaking are problems.
4- Auto window defrosters only work well if they blow heated/ dried air from the air conditioner. i.e., the A/C unit dries the air, then it is heated, then blown on the windshield. So, you could buy an A/C unit and a generator to run it, to cool that Alaskan air before you heat it, then blow it on the window!
5- Whatever happened to those old, cheap heaters that dried the air so much your throat croaked like a frog?
John
I am suprized that with all the responses that more of you don't know about the simplest solution for window fogging and apparently have lived with it or spent quite a bit of money to resolve it.
Take a paper towel and apply some dish soap to it and wipe it on the windows. Then take another towel and wipe the windows down until they are clear. This will resolve window fogging all day regardless of the conditions or number of people hiding out in the cabin.
We use it all the time with great success under all conditions in Alaska.
Take a paper towel and apply some dish soap to it and wipe it on the windows. Then take another towel and wipe the windows down until they are clear. This will resolve window fogging all day regardless of the conditions or number of people hiding out in the cabin.
We use it all the time with great success under all conditions in Alaska.
Most soaps contain surface tension reducing agents which will block fogging for awhile. What seems to last the longest for me is hand/bath skin conditioning bars such as Lever 2000. Just suds it up til creamy and smear on the glass, then wipe of with towel, etc.. I think the skin cream part lets more of the surface retention agent stay on the glass when wiping. John
Window Fogging Cured!!
I've revived this thread because I finally found a solution I'm happy with and wanted to share it. We tried it all, from the threads above, fog-x, shaving cream, we even wrestled with the 20" box fan for a trip.
The answer for us is a few of the tips and the Hella Turbo Fan. This fan was recommended to me by Bob, on Thataway. We just made our first trip with this fan, it was awesome, quiet, often it was clearing the helm window it was directed at and the center window. This is in pouring rain and fog outside. It DID NOT work without having a rear window opened to at least 4"-6" and we left the Wallas running continuously while underway.
It has a built in 2-speed switch with off position, best off was the easy mounting. I just backed out one of the window frame screws and inserted one side of the mount under it and tightened it back up, for the opposing side I just drilled a hole in the frame and installed a self tapping screw. Works perfect and no holes in the fiberglass.
The cheapest deal I found online was $59.99 at Defender Industries
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|6880|8130&id=8114
I ordered another one for the port side within 24 hrs of getting back into port.
The only downside I can see was the lack of a cage on the back side, I got my fingers into the running fan a couple of times, scared me, but never injured me.
Oh yeah, I think another thing that helped was a new rule we came up with, no boiling of water on the wallas stove, when we made pasta or boiled shrimp we did it on the aft deck with a 1000W electric burner using the generator, no moisture added to the cabin like that.
I've revived this thread because I finally found a solution I'm happy with and wanted to share it. We tried it all, from the threads above, fog-x, shaving cream, we even wrestled with the 20" box fan for a trip.
The answer for us is a few of the tips and the Hella Turbo Fan. This fan was recommended to me by Bob, on Thataway. We just made our first trip with this fan, it was awesome, quiet, often it was clearing the helm window it was directed at and the center window. This is in pouring rain and fog outside. It DID NOT work without having a rear window opened to at least 4"-6" and we left the Wallas running continuously while underway.
It has a built in 2-speed switch with off position, best off was the easy mounting. I just backed out one of the window frame screws and inserted one side of the mount under it and tightened it back up, for the opposing side I just drilled a hole in the frame and installed a self tapping screw. Works perfect and no holes in the fiberglass.
The cheapest deal I found online was $59.99 at Defender Industries
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|6880|8130&id=8114
I ordered another one for the port side within 24 hrs of getting back into port.
The only downside I can see was the lack of a cage on the back side, I got my fingers into the running fan a couple of times, scared me, but never injured me.
Oh yeah, I think another thing that helped was a new rule we came up with, no boiling of water on the wallas stove, when we made pasta or boiled shrimp we did it on the aft deck with a 1000W electric burner using the generator, no moisture added to the cabin like that.
We have two of these fans over our bunks, and one on each side of the front windows. I just loosened one of the Robertson screws, on the window frame, and put the screw thru one side of the holder, and then drilled a hole for a second screw for the other screw--there are single and two speed fans. The two speed are better but cost more. These use little power, and I justed added them on at the fuse for the cabin lights circuit on the CD 25, a separate circuit on the Tom Cat (since I had many more fuses available).
I am glad that these worked well for you!
I am glad that these worked well for you!
Warren, unfortunately my installation isn't neat, tidy or done correct yet. I installed the fan the same day we launched for our 8 day hunt. The wire just ran down beside the helm. I properly crimped on a terminal on the + and - side and the negative is attached to the buss. But....the + went right to a hot lug, that will get a fuse before I go out again.
With the mounting on the window frame you have lot's of other window frame screws left with which to install wire clamps to make a real good looking installation, I just haven't done it yet. I will try and get some photos soon of this install.
With the mounting on the window frame you have lot's of other window frame screws left with which to install wire clamps to make a real good looking installation, I just haven't done it yet. I will try and get some photos soon of this install.