Winterizing

IdleUp

New member
I think I've read just about all the posts on the subject and it seems as if this is going to be a real job.

It appears the house water pump is hidden somewhere under the helm step. Do you have to remove the refrig or the cabin heater to access it. I wanted to gain access to the intake to run RV juice through the lines. If possible, I'll relocate it under the sink.

I Think I'm OK on the A/C since I can gain access of the intake on the manifold.

I have not yet found the forward bilge pump.

Shower slump won't be a problem.

I have a few Boat Safe heaters however, I don't think the heat will make it forward

Looks like I can drain the water heater - I seen a by-pass kit on Boaters World.


Seems as if boats should follow procedures of RV's and have wintererizing ability like they do

heater.jpg
 
Would anyone be willing to post a step by step procedure for winterizing the r 25. I plan to have my local mechanic do it, and he is good, but has not done a ranger 25. Simple language, and simple instructions...how to get to things...etc.

I'm pretty good at running parties for C dory, playing banjos, ....but a dunce on mechanical issues.

terraplane
 
I just called John at the factory and he advised me the fresh water pump is accessible by removing the heater at the floor of the helm.

The forward bilge pump is accessible under the step. However, it should be dry since it's located so high.
 
I have done the Mis Dee twice. Lets see if I can remember>

1. pumped out all the water from tank that I could.
2. pulled the plug on the hot water tank
3. used air to blow air conditioner at the intake.
4. Drained the shower hose
5. Pulled plug on exhaust riser
6. Drained raw water strainer
7. drained water from fresh water strainer
8. Blew air through gen set intake
9 Drained exhaust on gen
10. Make sure you have anti freeze in the fresh water side of the exchangers.
11. Blow air through wash down lines and pump.
12. Last but not least, I used camper type antifreeze in the tank and run until I got color out of ever faucet. Poured some in toilet, sinks, shower sump. Pour some in the bilge to get some in the pump.
Note: The stuff tastes terrible and takes lots of water to get rid of it.
(tanks full) I am going to try not to use the stuff in the future.

I put a by-pass on the hot water heater. Worked good to shut off water to the tank. But something was wrong with valves and had to take it off to use hot water later. Don't use any more air pressure than needed to move the water out. I found some kind of gadget that allowed me to blow air through the intakes. Can't remember what it was. (senior moment) When I find it I will let you all know. What ever it was, it worked well.

There maybe more to do , Jump right in if you think of anything.

Thats all I can think of right now. The instruction books on the engines, gen set included, tells you how to take care of them.
captd
 
capt d.

Thanks for the info. If you think of anything else, let me know. I'm going to show your list to my guy. Excuse my ignorance, but how do i find the access hot water heater?

terraplane tom
 
terraplane":3jrkkuyx said:
capt d.

Thanks for the info. If you think of anything else, let me know. I'm going to show your list to my guy. Excuse my ignorance, but how do i find the access hot water heater?

terraplane tom

Tom
Open the aft stbd deck hatch in the fantail.
The forward bulkhead is the electric hot water heater.
You can trace the supply and return lines pretty easy.

Joe Bradley
Starry Night
Virginia Beach, VA
 
Or Puget Sound, where you wouldn't have to endure all that bloody sunshine! It may be gray and damp, but we boat all year round here too - and no hurricanes!


TomRay":31sz1odt said:
Wouldn't it be easier to just move to Florida? ;)
 
After spending a few days at the factory and seeing the changes that have been made. Winterizing is a lot easier. The central strainer covers three things all at once. Open the top and pour anti freeze (RV type) into the bowl. shut off the intake, (the through hull ), Have some one crank the engine. pour in anti freeze until it comes out the exhaust. Run the wash down pump until it pumps red after shutting off the other two, toilet the same way. You should be able to blow out the air conditioner (Diaphram pump) Pour anti freeze into sinks, shower until it pumps red. If any water in the bilge just pour in some anti freeze.
No need to get to the pumps anywhere. Pull the plug on the hot water heater. Pump out as much drinking water as possible. Pour in the red stuff, lots of it. Pump until it comes out of all of all fresh water out puts. Shower, sinks, Etc. You do not have to pay anyone. Take your time , use lots of anti freeze.
captd
 
On my boat the strainer supplies the engine - wash down and the A/C - so you'll want to fire up the A/C to get the RV juice through the system.

My head is on a separate valve on the port side of the boat.

By the way, there might be a trap on the A/C evap drain so you might want to look that over as well.

Regards,
 
IdleUp":340e5ndz said:
On my boat the strainer supplies the engine - wash down and the A/C - so you'll want to fire up the A/C to get the RV juice through the system.

My head is on a separate valve on the port side of the boat.

By the way, there might be a trap on the A/C evap drain so you might want to look that over as well.

Regards,


You might be right about what comes off the strainer. I haven't taken the shrink wrap off yet, and my memory is short.
How do you get the other two? Last year on the 2007 I pulled the plug on the silencer box on the genset, lot of water there. I think I slipped a hose into the through hull and into a jug of antifreeze. Cranked the engine.
Andrew went through the strainer part, but didn't see him do the other two.

Maybe Andrew will enlighten us..............
captd
 
I wish I wish I could help you but i don't have a generator on mine so you might be right since that is another hose needed on the intake.

I'm sure one of the guys here have a gen could shed some ligt on the subject.

Thanks
 
Pat Anderson":b7jx61aq said:
Or Puget Sound, where you wouldn't have to endure all that bloody sunshine! It may be gray and damp, but we boat all year round here too - and no hurricanes!


TomRay":b7jx61aq said:
Wouldn't it be easier to just move to Florida? ;)

So if one lives in the greater Puget Sound region, it does not get cold enough to worry about winterizing a boat with outboards and an H2O system? :? Seems to me that we get freezes from time to time during winter; some lasting for days. Enlighten me please. Remember, from where I hail "winter" is 60F and we do everything all year. Winterizing is a non-existent term. :lol:

We do have hurricanes though. :disgust
 
I would definitely do some winterizing. I replaced a bilge pump after neglecting to get all the water out of the little bilge "bucket" at the rear of the cabin on my 22. It got into the 20's, enough to freeze the pump. I make sure to drain all water tanks and lines but don't worry about anything else as we usually take the boat out almost every month over the winter.
 
You can winterize your bilge pumps by pouring a little RV Juice in the bilge - be sure to have someone with a bucket by the outlet to catch it when it fires up!
 
Unless something was changed on your boat the way it runs is as follows. The multi port strainer supplies three items. Washdown, Engine and Head. The AC & Gen have there own thru hulls which is required (Port side) The AC seacock is the one fursthest forward which its strainer is accesible from the cabin step on the inside of the cabin. I have a pretty good winterizing list I would love to share that I read and it is pretty complete. If you have questions on how to do it please feel free to email me @ andrewcustis@rangertugs.com or phone me at 253-839-5213
 
IdleUp":1e7k9ehu said:
On my boat the strainer supplies the engine - wash down and the A/C - so you'll want to fire up the A/C to get the RV juice through the system.

My head is on a separate valve on the port side of the boat.

By the way, there might be a trap on the A/C evap drain so you might want to look that over as well.

Regards,

I stand corrected - Andrew was correct the A/C inlet is on it's own valve on the Port side of the boat!
 
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