And so it begins Bottom Painting

jkidd

jkidd

Active member
Joined
Oct 23, 2006
Messages
1,681
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C Dory Year
2007
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Hull Identification Number
CDo22670C707
Vessel Name
Voyager
I'm ready to tape and sand the boat. I remove the trailer from under the boat today. Next is to remove the pin striping then tape. I'm going to raise the line 3 inches on the sides and take the stern as high as I can go.

Boatpaint1.sized.jpg

Boatpaint2.sized.jpg
 
Jody,

VERY impressive!

On my engine bracket, I found a pro scraper to work out better than sanding with all the dust and protective gear (esp indoors). I assume you have Interprotect 2000 epoxy or equivalent as a barrier coat. If not, it might be worth considering. It's solvent based, so ensure excellent ventilation indoors.

I'm not aware of a non solvent based epoxy barrier coat, but that don't mean nuthing. Perhaps it's not an issue where you boat.

Carry on and keep us updated!

Hope it's a lot of Fun!

John
 
jkidd, we need to do that too, keep us posted! Interesting lift, you have any side views of that? thanks!
 
I like the Davit setup you made Is there only the front one

So you lower the trailer put jacks stands in back then raise trailer and then use the front davit set up Is this how you did this ? Yes I agree make sure you put a barrier coat on When I did my CC 23venture I put 3 coats of barrier paint then 2 coats of bottom paint in 2012. Barrier coat still good I just do touch up every year The boat stays in Florida water from Oct-May It’s on trailer through the Summer months Jim
 
We had very good luck using a product call 'Copper Coat' with a few layers of barrier coat beneath it, as our boat was unpainted when we bought it in 2020. Supposed to be a 15 year solution .. and, after year 1 of keeping it in the water for 5 months or so, we see no indication that it won't be.

From a point of view of lifting/working on the boat, we used a Brownell lift system -- that worked very well and was fairly easy (although not inexpensive at like $ 800.00) -- but we can now use it each season to clean/pressure wash.

Both are shown in our album area and happy to field any ?

Good Luck!
 
I will be using 3 coats of Pettit Protect Epoxy barrier coat and then two coats of Pettit Hydrocoat Eco bottom paint in black.

The gantry is 3 2x6s for the verticals and 3 2x8s for the beam and 3/4 inch plywood. Everything is through bolted with carriage bolts. It was about $250 in materials. The stands are just 6000 lb jack stands with a 8" square pad the sits on top of them with a little play so they fit the shape of the boat.

I sat the back of the boat on the jack stands and then raised the front with a floor jack. Then I adjusted the strap on the gantry as tight as i could get it and lowered the boat onto the strap. Then I let the air out of the tires and pulled the trailer out from under the boat.
 
I need a garage, and a lift, like that! :) Good luck with your bottom paint application! Colby
 
Jody, Nice lift. And good idea to raise the waterline.

On my bottom paint job, I raised the line to just under the strake above, so your 3" will be close. A followed that strake along the sides and at the bow I followed the strake on the upward diagonal to just below the strake line under that anchor locker drain. Kind of helps with the C-Dory Face, and since most of my cruising is at slow cruise, the new line keeps the Mustache unnoticeable.

I did have the trim tabs media blasted, but then changed my mind and didn't have them painted. Wish now I had not had them blasted, but left the smooth 316SS. Much easier to clean.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

Old lines.
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Here is a view of the pad for the jack stand.

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A picture of the home made air supplied respirator. I used a turbine to supply the air outside of the shop.

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I got the pinstripes removed today and half of the adhesive off. I used a heat gun and the vinyl came off but left the adhesive. Lacquer thinner seem to take that off fairly easy. I tried the dewaxer and it wouldn't touch it. That stuff stinks bad so that's when I fixed the respirator so I could bring air in from the outside. I will also come in handy for the barrier coat. When I left Yellowstone this year the side had an oily colored stain on the sides I wasn't to worried about it cause I new bottom paint was coming. I tried Lacquer thinner and then the dewaxer neither would touch it. Then I tried Barkeepers Friend and that took it all off. I figured I better clean it off first before I tape. Nice and clean now to bad I'm going to sand it.

Boatpaint5.sized.jpg
 
Jody looks like you got a great set up. I did the same with the jack stands two in back one on keel in front, but I had to leave the trailer underneath and work around it. It was a pain. Good luck with the project I am sure it will turn out great.
 
Sunflower":3f26sray said:
Jody looks like you got a great set up. I did the same with the jack stands two in back one on keel in front, but I had to leave the trailer underneath and work around it. It was a pain. Good luck with the project I am sure it will turn out great.
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Thanks, If it turns out like yours all be very happy.
 
Looking good Jody. I am impressed!
 
Water Bill":oletjf25 said:
Looking good Jody. I am impressed!
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Thanks, Bill
 
All the sanding is done. Next is to dewax again and I can start the barrier coat.

Boatpaint6.sized.jpg
 
I'm curious why some want to raise the bottom paint line several inches. Why?
 
pcg":3137cr4a said:
I'm curious why some want to raise the bottom paint line several inches. Why?
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Depending on the load on the boat, the actual waterline can be a number of inches higher than the colored part of the lower hull (boot stripe) particularly at the stern. Raising the paint line protects the parts of the hull that are in the water. The factory should raise the color line of the lower hull a bit in the build process.
 
ssobol":m0xk0z8t said:
pcg":m0xk0z8t said:
I'm curious why some want to raise the bottom paint line several inches. Why?
Click to expand...

Depending on the load on the boat, the actual waterline can be a number of inches higher than the colored part of the lower hull (boot stripe) particularly at the stern. Raising the paint line protects the parts of the hull that are in the water. The factory should raise the color line of the lower hull a bit in the build process.
Click to expand...

Totally agree that the factory should raise their bottom color pan. Their lines are based on an empty boat, without an engine. I raised mine to the bottom of the next strake line. Also raised the bow to follow that strake line forward to just below the tow loop. That was to keep from growing a seasonal moustache from slow cruising, especially in tannic water.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

This is the old line level
IMGP6704.thumb.jpg
 
I ended up raising the waterline 4 inches and that should be pretty close to right for what I carry. My guess is the boats with the glass interior and the glassed in rear deck weigh at less 400 lbs heavier than the factories bad missed published weight. I sure wish they would weigh one of the new hulls and correct that. At Yellowstone Jay and I were comparing how his boat sits in the water as to mine and mine sits a lot deeper than his.
 
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