Any cons to camper back?

If you are only trailering a short distance, it should be fine left up. However, if it's long distance, you are probably better taking it down.
 
We always take all of the canvas off the frames to trailer--I have seen Bimini damage even rolled up. If it was right behind the cabin house, then I probably would be OK with it on the frame. (My Caracal Cat Bimini fits flush below the casting platform when down, and no problem trailering because it is out of the wind.
 
I just trailered my boat about 1000 miles with the bimini in the set back position. That is, with the top rolled up around it's frame, and then enclosed in it's cover. It sits upright, back over the motor. Otherwise, I have trailered it laying forward against the cabin, tied in that postion against the top roof rails. (Unfortunately, in this secured position it is harder to get into the boat when "boaterhoming".) In the laid back position, I worry more about the frame's side to side movement on rough roads, than anything else. Other than a very short distance, I wouldn't trailer with the entire camper enclosure up/on. Or even with the Bimini in the open position. Colby
 
It's now been two years since my original replies in this thread, and Midnight Flyer was recently sold and C-Traveler (a 25) purchased. Once again I am looking at needing to get a bimini as C-Traveler did not come with one. At this time I'm looking at getting the Bimini only, with it being made so that if I decide to add the sides and back curtains (full camper enclosure) later, it will be an easy addition. What I learned with Midnight Flyer is that first off, with full camper enclosure, it worked best to have a zipper along the cabin preferred entry side. Unsnapping and snapping each time getting in and out was a pain. Also, in the 2 or 3 years I owned the full enclosure, I believe I only used it 3 times. (And I would have been fine without it even in those times.) In the end, it was the Bimini top alone that was worth it's weight in gold. Allowed for a lot more shade and kept a lot of the rain out. Unless of course it was blowing sideways... So at this point I don't think my use of the full enclosure was worth the cost. Also, on the 22, there wasn't a lot of extra storage room to keep those side and aft curtains when not in use, but brought along. The 25 has more room, but still just don't see my infrequent use of the full enclosure as worth the price and hassle.

While on this subject, I'd be interested in seeing photos of how others with 25's have had their regular biminis set up. I have a local guy that does great canvas work and will have him custom make it. My wife wants something that is high enough to stand under without stooping. (We're both 6'). I prefer something that can fold forward against the cabin for trailering, but then fold aft for storage on the boat when not in use. Interested also specifically in how the tops are mounted with the gunnel railings that the 25's have. Colby
 
We just bought Emma Mae and it had a flat cockpit cover like a Florida fishing boat.

The PO had fabricated a multi-piece cover that attached with velcro. We have decided to not use it. Nancy will make some sun shades that we can move from side to side when necessary.

The advantage of our current top is 2 fold. It could be used to carry a dinghy and it allows full standing headroom.

See photo in our album
 
I just finished a "canvas" project on my trawler that didn't involve any canvas. The PO had a complex set of 7 panels that enclosed the aft cockpit. They were large windows in Sunbrella that hung from an awning track, zipped together, and attached by bungee to the gunnel. The design was okay,* but the Sunbrella was moldy and torn, the clear panels were cracked and no longer clear, and the zippers were shot.

I bought clear vinyl, tan PVC, and a quart of HH 66 glue and used the old panels as patterns. I reused the awning track that had been sewed onto the Sunbrella. I glued it to the PVC (inside and out) and its holding fine.

But my biggest change was getting rid of the zippers. I have zippers on my camperback on the CD 16. They are the most fiddly part of dealing with the panels. So for my new project, I used Dot Twist fasteners to hold the panels together. Each panel has a three inch overlap. In theory, the wind can come through the panels more than a zipper, but it hasn't been noticeable so far.

The up side is that I can fasten 5 Dot fasteners quicker than just getting a zipper started. Zippers are usually the weak link after a few years, either losing teeth, tearing out, or corroded zipper pulls. The SS Dot fasteners are fool proof and, if something changes, I can move one by punching a hole and putting in another fastener. So far, all is good.

http://www.c-brats.com/albums/album3149 ... 114139.jpg

* Lots of shops can do a good job of sewing using the best materials. As this thread points out, design is what makes an okay camperback a great camperback.
 
When we do install it, I usually only use the four side panels. Keeps the cockpit dry from splashing. Although we have used all of them in really crappy, windy weather, it's rare. I had a large bag made to store them all inside when not in use. It didn't come with anything to store them in.

Only other disadvantage is when I crab or shrimp, the S/S frame is utterly in the way. When I crab/shrimp, I remove the entire Bimini to open up the working room required for the puller/pots etc.
 
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