Boarding Planks, Ladders, and Other Ideas

Sea Wolf":15a9kpg4 said:
The PV pipes on the trailer have holes drilled every 20" or so from front to back. There are 20 numbered ribs from front to back made up of 1/2" diameter smaller PVC pipes with 1/2" dowels inserted into the ends that fit into the holes in the bigger pipes. They form a "covered wagon" like structure over the boat to hold a cover for storage that is above all the sharp points and won't tear from the wind, rain, etc. The ones in the front are shorter than the ones in the middle, etc. Bungees hold the cover ends down over the ribs to the trailer frame.

Joe, do you happen to have a photo of your boat cover in action?
 
Pandion":2ff44etz said:
Sea Wolf":2ff44etz said:
The PV pipes on the trailer have holes drilled every 20" or so from front to back. There are 20 numbered ribs from front to back made up of 1/2" diameter smaller PVC pipes with 1/2" dowels inserted into the ends that fit into the holes in the bigger pipes. They form a "covered wagon" like structure over the boat to hold a cover for storage that is above all the sharp points and won't tear from the wind, rain, etc. The ones in the front are shorter than the ones in the middle, etc. Bungees hold the cover ends down over the ribs to the trailer frame.

Joe, do you happen to have a photo of your boat cover in action?

No, sorry, I've never photographed it.

Only a year or so after I built it, we retired and moved from the Bay Area to Redding, and our new home has a 25 x 40' RV barn in the back yard which eliminates the need for the shelter.

I may be able to put it together later this winter when I pull the CD out to clean it and start fishing in the new year.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
ospreysails":2x5qdxza said:
Has anyone considered using a loading ramp such as this one sold at tractor supply for a boarding ramp?
http://www.tractorsupply.com//ProductDi ... _vc=-10005

It folds, is light, and is reasonable at $40. Should be easy to strap on the cabin roof.

It certainly strong enough (500 lb capacity), light enough (16 lb.), and inexpensive ($40).

I'm sure you'd have great difficulty building one yourself for that cost, or that strong, or within that weight equivalent.

The only difficulty I see is how it would be used.

Two difficulties to deal with:

1. Seems to me you'd have to first go ashore yourself somehow in order to place it in position with one end on the shore and the other on the boat, and

2. The next question is how to attach it to the bow or stern of the boat securely.

The stern/transom is generally a little easier, but tying it down to either will have to be done with considerable thought to security and safety.

It would be nice to have the ramp securely and permanently attached to the boat in a manner that allows you to just swing it down from the stored position on the boat without going ashore first or having to subsequently tie it down, like a hinged drop ramp on a riverboat, but that might prove very difficult on a boat the size of a C-Dory. Plus you might to want to use it on the bow sometimes, and the stern at others.

If i were going to use it, I'd go to a machine shop and have them make 2 anchoring brackets that would fit the ramp; one for the bow, and another for the stern. The ramp would fit into either with a couple of clevis pins, and could be attached from its stored position on the roof to either of the brackets, then lowed (swung) down with the help of a rope to the shore without going ashore first.

One other problem: are you going to use this like a ladder or a walking ramp?
If the latter, do you need a handrail to be safe? Non-skid? Tight-rope walker's balancing rod? :lol:

Lots to think about! :smiled

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Sea Wolf: Your comments Are all valid ones. Let me explain how and why I plan to use the ramp. It's not so much for me to use as it is my crew. I did join the old geezers club ( turned 70 ) last month. But I don't have any trouble yet, jumping off the boat to secure the ramp for the crew. The wife doesn't mind getting her feet wet, either. My biggest reason for the ramp is getting my 60# dog ashore.

I'm thinking that by using a buddy line off the front and securing a stern anchor. I should be able to get to shore and secure the ramp by mounting one end on the swim platform with quick pins and the other end on shore. Now I should be able to assist the crew on ' walking the plank '. If it doesn't work maybe I'll just use the ramp to load the dog into my John Deere Gator.
 
ospreysails":1eujq2e6 said:
Sea Wolf: Your comments Are all valid ones. Let me explain how and why I plan to use the ramp. It's not so much for me to use as it is my crew. I did join the old geezers club ( turned 70 ) last month. But I don't have any trouble yet, jumping off the boat to secure the ramp for the crew. The wife doesn't mind getting her feet wet, either. My biggest reason for the ramp is getting my 60# dog ashore.

I'm thinking that by using a buddy line off the front and securing a stern anchor. I should be able to get to shore and secure the ramp by mounting one end on the swim platform with quick pins and the other end on shore. Now I should be able to assist the crew on ' walking the plank '. If it doesn't work maybe I'll just use the ramp to load the dog into my John Deere Gator.

I understand! I used to have to go to floating docks to be able to get my 155 lb Great Dane on and off the boat, using a cooler inside next to the gunnel for an inside stepping block. Never did get a system to get her on and off a beach/shore.

Good Luck!

fp_2005_09_21_2.jpg
Shadow, my Great Dane, 1995-2005 (2nd of 3 Danes)

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
One of the great things about the C Dory is the you can bring the stern until it is almost ashore--only a few inches of water. Our limit is hitting the depth sounder. The 83" should be more than enough length to get the dog ashore. We have used a "pet step" which is 14" wide and 70 lunches long. (folds to about 36" and fits easily in the cockpit. Being made of plastic, it is less likely to harm the gel coat on the boat. We just put ours on the plastic lip on the top of the transom, and The inboard end on the beach to get the larger dogs, we have owned in the past (Labs and boarder collies). The 18 lb poodle is no problem to carry, but she often jumps ashore from the swim step.
 
Sea Wolf: Shadow was a great looking dog.

Thataway: I've also looked at the pet steps. I like the ramp idea better because we humans can also use it. I also like the ladder off the bow. May end up with both sometime in the future.
 
ospreysails-

If you get a bow ladder and set it up as I did (photo on page one of this thread), consider a 4 or even a 5 step ladder instead of a 3. I think with an extra step or two, instead of just serving to climb up and down from the beach, that you could board the boat from the water when anchored or adrift. If you have a transom ladder, of course, this might not be desirable or necessary.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Pandion":2re0iztf said:
Haven't found a 5-step bow ladder, but the 3- and 4-step models are here:

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/windline ... 35133.html

Thanks!

Nice prices!

As for a 5-stepladder, I added an extra step to the ladder on the swim step on my Sea Ray to make it easier to climb aboard. Made it out of standard 3/4" stainless rail tubing and fittings.

As we get older, heavier, and less strong and agile, it helps to have a ladder with more rungs setting deeper into the water to get our weight centered over and climb upon.

A ladder that is barely under the surface requires a very young and agile person to pull themselves up to, then up upon, and then to climb on further up. (It can be like trying to pull yourself up to reverse climb a fire escape ladder whose first rung is chest high!) Additional handles nearby (like on the transom) are also very useful as one gets higher on the ladder.

This is a very serious consideration! If your ladder is too short, you may not be able to re-board the boat at all!

Everyone with a ladder and/or swim platform should yearly perform a self-check to see if they can actually re-board the boat in the manner planned.

This goes for your crew as well. And any others routinely aboard.

Is your safety back up boarding system actually functional or will you have to hold on until help arrives. or ……………..?

And while we're at it, rope ladders and rope extensions are largely useless as they swing away from you and don't allow you to get your weight over and onto them!

Something worth considering/more food for thought!


(Sorry for the rant!)

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Hey there Joe,

I am about to install the same ladder as yours on Big Blue. I am thinking about moving it about 1" to stern, so it overlaps just a hair with the bow rail stanchion. Given your experience with yours, do you like that it floats under the bow rail, or do you wish you could strap it hard to the stanchion/railing?

Best and talk soon,
Ben
 
bmacpiper":1wxa6axo said:
Hey there Joe,

I am about to install the same ladder as yours on Big Blue. I am thinking about moving it about 1" to stern, so it overlaps just a hair with the bow rail stanchion. Given your experience with yours, do you like that it floats under the bow rail, or do you wish you could strap it hard to the stanchion/railing?

Best and talk soon,
Ben

Ben-

If I interpret your question correctly, I'd just put it where it is on mine.

Yes, it doesn't come up against the bow rail stanchion, but because of that, there's no vibration and noise from their contact while motoring in waves, either.

Where it is, it does have to be strapped up with bungee cords, but that seems to work fine.

OTOH, if you could design a pressure operated snap fitting that would securely hold it to the stanchion, it might make access to the ladder available to a swimmer in the water in the event that the ladder was needed, but not already deployed, as during an emergency.

A bungee cord that held it firmly up between the stanchions but was long enough to let the ladder be pulled down and used to board the boat, would be great, but you'd have to add a pulley / turning block and run the bungee cord's tail forward or somewhere else out of the way. Additionally, a "tail" would have to be added to the ladder to trail down toward the water's surface to allow a swimmer to pull the ladder down to the water, as I don't think a swimmer, particularly a tired swimmer, could reach up and initially deploy a stowed ladder in the upright position.

Still thinking…………..

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Hey there Joe,
Yes, you interpreted my question correctly. In a much earlier post on the thread, you had mentioned that you'd like to switch from the bungee/ball cords to a single at some point, for deploying and retrieving, etc. So I had just wondered if part of that desire was to eliminate the floating nature of the ladder.

Like you said, I'm thinking about vibration, and would probably just put a bit of rubber at the contact or something. But mainly, keying off your old comment, I was thinking about the simplicity of strapping the ladder to the stanchion, i.e. with a diagonal wrap or so.

I gotta tell you, I accidentally ordered the exact ladder you have (before reading your model number, etc.) and so am happy to hear how much you like it. When I first saw it, I was thinking the flex would be too much for the deck with no standoffs, and then I read your comments about it riding against the rub rail and said, "duh". You guys going on about the old geezers club--there are a few of us out here that don't belong yet and that do appreciate your experience and occasionally learn something from you without making the mistakes ourselves first! :)

Anyway, I'll keep you posted, let me know if you have that latest greatest idea.

bmc
 
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