Cockpit and deck paint

S

Sheepshead

New member
Just received my 22 Angler the other day.

I was wondering what type of paint could be used to re paint the cockpit and deck....the non gel coat areas?

Thanks.
 
I don't remember what year your boat is--but most of the boats had rolled on gel coat for the floors of both the cockpit and cabin. You can roll on more gel coat--using a high nap roller house can re-gelcoat the floor. That can give a non skid surface if you thicken it with Cabosil (fumed silica). The gel coat has to have wax in it, and of course you add the catalyst.

Another option is either a single part paint, such as "Brightside". You can also use two part Interlux "Perfection". The problem with many urethane paints is that they do not do well under water, if your boat is kept outside without cover, and does not drain well..."Bilge coat" is a bilge paint which is formulated to do well when under water and exposed to various oils. Two part epoxies, such as for driveways or garage floors are very durable. But some epoxies are not UV rated, for sun exposure, so be sure that any paint is going to stand up.

Kiwigrip is a deck paint with non skid. A final option is truck bed liner, formulated for boat decks, such as: Line X.

Many of us put the Dri Deck or Duragrid or similar interlocking plastic tiles on the deck surface--and may cover with an indoor/outdoor carpet, which is easily washed. There are a number of industrial foam mats which can be placed over the deck. (I had some interlocking ones, purchased at Sam's club.)

There are any number of plastic "fake teak" or other patterns which can be applied and last a long time. If you are really flush with cash there is "Deckadece" A high end mesh--only about $32 a lineal foot 4' wide! (figure at least $300 for the angler).

If you are going to paint, clean the deck well, with soap and water, and then TSP, rinse well, and dry. If there is material loose and flaking, consider a pressure washer. You can also use a degreaser and then etching primer to assure better adhesion.
 
My Angler is a 2008'.
I wasn't sure if it was gel coat or just a regular paint used on the deck and lower gunwhales.
I guess I will need to learn all about gel coat soon enough.
Thanks Bob.

These same areas (lower gunwhale and deck).....do you ever spray them with bleach? Or does that damage gel coat?
My other boat is an older carolina skiff. I was never concerned with it about looks, just keeping her tidy. So I'd just rinse and spray with some bleach.

My Angler cockpit deck has cedar planking over stringers from previous owner creating a nice flat surface and would keep feet dry. I like the idea, but I will either refinish it or re do it altogether to make it look a little nicer.
If I re do it, I am thinking of using the composite "treks" wood from Home depot.
I will probably get the dry dek type mat for the cabin deck for sure.

That is beautiful work on the faux teak "South of Heaven."
Thanks for sharing.
 
South of Heaven":1bxzb8qy said:
Ordutch1975":1bxzb8qy said:
At one point I thought this might be cool - https://m.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/art/90234226/
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Bro, that looks way too thick to work!
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The Ikea stuff is about 5/8 thick. It is wood on a plastic backing to allow interlocking of the tiles. It will allow water to flow through the slats and under the tiles.

I am probably going to put this in the cockpit of my 22 Cruiser this spring. Should be around $100.

I was using "plush" utility mats from HD, but they tended to hold water both in top of the mat and underneath between the mat and the deck.
 
That's awesome you finally got your Angler. We're neighbors sort of. I'll be looking out for you when were out and about. We saw another c-dory near St Catherines island the other day, that was the first time I'd spotted another c-dory in this area other than our own.

Bleach works great as you've discovered with your skiff. I've used it to get discoloration from the awful live oak debris that stains the gel coat in the fall. The problem with it is it strips any wax you have completely off. Its hard to beat though if you have some staining that is stubborn. Just reapply the wax if you don't want that chalky oxidized look. Lower gunnel and deck isn't a big deal anyway for wax.
 
Most of the "cleaners" like barkeepers friend, have mild abrasives, and oxalic acid. Oxalic acid is a mild acid (still need to wear eye protection and gloves), and you can buy powder at paint stores and big box like Home Depot. A lifetime supply for $30 (or less). Stronger acids are not good for the gel coat. There are also specific products for mold--but Chlorox can be used.

If you are referring to the side decks and swim platform, etc--all of these surfaces are gel coat. Our Cal 46 was over 20 years old, and had seen charter service in the Caribbean. Most of the hull and topsides were painted with Awlgrip. I rolled on Awlgrip to all of the decks. I found best was first coast with fine grit glass beads, and second coat, no additive. This gave an attractive surface was better grip than the original "Diamond" molded pattern.

If these areas you want to paint are the molded diamond non skid, then I suggest paint with some non skid substance. Beach sand is often too aggressive. The KiwiGrip is a good alternative.
 
ssobol":8d4i682u said:
The Ikea stuff is about 5/8 thick. It is wood on a plastic backing to allow interlocking of the tiles. It will allow water to flow through the slats and under the tiles.

I am probably going to put this in the cockpit of my 22 Cruiser this spring. Should be around $100.
Click to expand...

I believe the stuff is also actually teak - and should hold up ok. I am pondering it on the back deck of my boat - What is great is that you can pull it up pretty easily for cleaning underneath..
 
Ikea says it is "Solid acacia wood".
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My people call it "Koa".

The KiwiGrip is a good alternative.
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Dr Bob, the stuff has held up great! I am impressed, to say the least. Plus, it's water-based. My two brothers have used it on their boats (36' sailboat & 22' aluminum fishing boat) with the same positive results. Application was a snap and it can be touched up should it need to be.
 
Here is a piece of Koa I found on a beach someplace on Kauai. No laminate here, just one big piece of Koa.
IMGP0325.sized.jpg


Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Wow, a Koa dugout! What a find!

If I was to guess about the flooring, I would suspect not Hawaiian Koa--which is getting scarce. It is a beautiful wood, but can be hard to work...

Often "Australia Blackwood" is also called the poor man's Koa--and it is one of the same species as the Koa Acacia. (Many mass produced bowls, and figurines are from this.)

However, Locust, is a far more prevalent wood, and is called "False Acacia".

To even confuse it more--there area number of "asian Acacia's" There is a huge amount of "acacia" flooring made in China...and my guess is that is what this is.

It is like "Mahogany" There are only 3 which are true mahogany, one which is close enough that it is generally accepted, then outliers, who are of other Orders, and such as "Philippine Mahogany (Luan) has no characteristics of true mahogany....All of these have subgenus which give many different woods, which are at times called "Mahogany"...
 
My post was tongue in cheek. Hawai’ian Koa wood is extremely rare and expensive now. Dr Bob is correct, as usual. While it is a species of Acacia, I guarantee the ikea item is NOT Koa wood. That canoe is beautiful too, Harvey. I have my parent’s Koa wood living room furniture; hand built in 1952 by a local Japanese (Nesei) craftsman in Honolulu.
 
There are over a thousand species of Acacia, some hard, some soft, some durable, some not, many utilized commercially, and varying in wood properties about as much as any tree. Saying "solid Acacia" is like saying "solid wood". What is really important is the specific Acacia species and its properties. For instance, Koa (Acacia koa) would be highly desirable, whereas Mangium (Acacia mangium) is a very fast growing species and would be less so. There are many species in between. A lot can be determined by looking at the wood before you buy it, but little can be determined by a simple description of "Acacia wood".
 
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