Considering Changing the transom on 1982 22 Angler

D

dcortazzo@sbcglobal.net

New member
I have a 1982 Angler that I am replacing the transom. I have read all the posts available and am doing the work myself. The newer models appear to be able to accommodate a kicker without any plates. I am considering modifying the transom of the 198 2model to the newer style to make the trolling more integrated. Any suggestions? Are there any schematics showing the dimensions of the newer setup (real basic diagram). I don't know of any newer 22' Anglers in my area to take the measurements in Santa Cruz.
 
I think trying to change the design of the transom will be way more work the its worth. I would go with a kicker bracket mounted to outside of transom.


Also the post 86 models have a different hull design so templating that would not produced a fitting transfer.
 
Newer boats have a built in splash well. All you need to do to allow a kicker on the transom, is to make the notch wider (maybe on one side only). But that makes the boat more susceptible to waves coming over the stern.

If I was doing a transom on a 1982 boat, I would add a small splash well, full height, and put a kicker bracket on as suggested by A Fishing C.
 
Thanks for the advice. I will probably stick with the original design. I will let you know how it turns out. This site is great since there is so much information sharing. I hope my experience will help someone else in the future.
Thanks again
Danny
 
Thanks for the advice. I will probably stick with the original design. I will let you know how it turns out. This site is great since there is so much information sharing. I hope my experience will help someone else in the future.
Thanks again
Danny
 
The pre 1987 dorys are flat bottom and are a lot narower at the transom. When you look at a clasic the width of the boat narrows from the back of the cabin to the back. On the 87 and newer they changed the boat considerably and there is minor change in width from the back of the cabin rearward thus you end up wit a wider transom

I believe that you would have to widen the boat from the cabin back to occomodate a wider transome. There is a C-Brat in kentucky, i cannot remember his name at the moment, but he widened the boat and extended it making it 25 if memory is right. It was a big project. More than i would ever think about doing
 
Another thought... is a power hull extension. If your stern is solid. If your stern is rotten... you do have a large job on your hand but do-able.
I worked with Rosborough RF246 hulls when they were built in Halifax by Bob Rosborough. He designed a brilliant power hull extension that added buoyancy that was about 10" narrower than the original stern of the boat. 5" each side providing help in following seas as like the ol rounded tumblehome sterns. May be pics of mine under FreeByrd photo album but not sure. I can get pics in a bit if not.
It was as I said about 5" narrower than original stern, went aft about 23" providing a wonderful platform for loading or getting in and out of the boat particularly when the boat is floating in the water. The back section of that extension "kicked up" higher than the flat 23" portion as to form a "clamping/mounting location" for single, twin or main and kicker motor. Also allows for a place for cooler or just a landing spot for muddy/sandy/funky fishy stuff to drain off and/or to be washed before bringing the "stuff" into your cockpit area. Still allowed plenty of room for twin motors and trim tabs too.
 
I like Byrdman’s suggestion regarding a hull extension. That’s what I’ll be doing once I get back to the project - hopefully very soon now as I'm not getting any younger. Mine will be of cored fiberglass integrated with the hull. I purchased three rectangular 10x20 deck plates from Armstrong who makes a bolt-on bracket. http://stores.armstrongnauticalstore.com/deck-plate-10x20-rectangular-white/ Those plates will provide access into the built-on bracket.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
 
another reason to stick to original design...

The more you change the more dollars/time involved. There is a chance the new architecture will not perform as anticipated (your not employing a naval architect)

There is likely limited resale market for a franken-dory
 
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