Engine problem and question

Correction; they crack not burst . They are under vacuum .
A helpful engineer clarified that for me . We sell hundreds a year .
Marc
 
Hi Tom,

I don't know how other "big" motors are, but my Yamaha 80 doesn't even have a place for the "quick connect" type of clip like my Honda 8 (and smaller motors of my youth) have. On the 80, the fuel line goes from the bulb, in through a sort of round disc with a number of holes in it (each hole has a wire or a hose running through it, to separate and protect them), and then on to the internal/Yamaha fuel filter. I know the exact route because I replaced that line (it was cracked out near the bulb, but since it is all one length of hose, I replaced the whole thing).

So, I can't just "unclip" it to run it dry. It is carbureted.

I was thinking that when I get off the lake I would run both engines dry and then drain the carbs, but I don't know that I have an easy way to run the Yamaha dry (that is if I can't cut the fuel supply). True, I could turn the C-Dory selector to "off," but then I still have the Racor after that. Just thought someone might know a certain type of valve that was suited to in line "floppy section of hose" use, and/or have another trick. It's new territory to me.

I will stop in Page and put some "pure" gas in the tanks, but then I don't have an easy way to run the engines after that. Maybe I'll have to dunk in a pond somewhere....

Actually, I have not decided yet whether to tow the boat southeast for the winter, or perhaps leave it in Page and come back for it. Either way, it would be at least weeks before I used it again, if not months. I had all of my carbs totally rebuilt when I bought the boat (it had been sitting, so I knew I was going to be doing that) and I'm not eager to have that done again anytime soon if I can help it.

Sunbeam
 
You can pull the line off the racor, and get it to drain that way, or you can pull the line loose at the fuel pump, or you can cut the line and put in a female and male matching quick connect before the fuel line enters the motor. Even when you run the motor dry, I would open all of the carb drains, and leave them open until you are ready to use again. When you get ready to use the engine, i would pump the primer a couple of times and allow a bit of gas to wash through the drains in case sediment has settled in the hoses or carb bowls. Then close the drains in the carbs, and you should be ready. Make sure you use gas treatment in the fuel (stabil or equivalent) before you stop using the boat -- I use it all the time.
 
digger,

Thanks for the tips! I was thinking that I would drain the carb bowls, but I didn't know about leaving the drain screws open and/or flushing them prior to using again - your reasoning sounds good on that.

I think ultimately I'll install some sort of valve or something. Not that I have tried it, but I imagine removing a line from the Racor as being a pain (I never have good luck getting hoses off barbed fittings - at least without destroying them). But you know, as I typed that I got an idea: For my Honda kicker line into the Racor, on the Racor end I used a 1/4" male threaded to Honda quick disconnect fitting, and then hooked the Honda hose up to that. My reasoning was that I could then quick disconnect the Honda line from the Racor and move it to the Honda portable tank (so an independent fuel source). So, maybe I could get the equivalent Yamaha fitting for where the Yamaha fits into the Racor, and use that as my "line removal" for running the Yamaha dry (will have to look at how Yamaha does their "clips" - the Honda one is sort of like an air hose where you pull back a collar and it comes off).

I have been running Ring Free in each tank (now that I am using the fuel up quickly), and I have some fuel stabilizer along and figured I'd add it to the tank I finish the trip with. But thanks for mentioning it. I'm going to try to run nearly dry with the ethanol fuel (all you can get on the lake) and then go into Page and put in some "pure" gas. If I can maybe I'll stop somewhere and run the engines enough to get that fuel into them (I should get one of those fabric flushing bags).

Sunbeam
 
If you shut off the C-Dory fuel selector valve and your system is tight it should just stop the gas flow and not empty the fuel filter.

I had somebody do that to me last weekend by thinking the handle was the pointer. ( engine just stopped )

Bill Kelleher
 
Bill K":3pe81zhq said:
If you shut off the C-Dory fuel selector valve and your system is tight it should just stop the gas flow and not empty the fuel filter.

I had somebody do that to me last weekend by thinking the handle was the pointer. ( engine just stopped )

Aha, thanks! I'm not up enough on hoses/vacuums/what-have-you to have figured that out. Good to know.

I agree with your "somebody" on the fuel selector handle. To me the handle end seems much more definitive than the tiny pointer. But of course now that I know I just remember to use the pointer, even if it feels slightly counterintuitive. (After reading some other threads here I checked the valve and the one I have does actually point accurately to all the selections, provided the pointer is used.)
 
anchorout":1b0k5ebr said:
BUT AGAIN, I NEVER RUN ETHANOL.

That's fine, but you are lucky you don't live in the Northeast, because WE NEVER CAN BUY GAS IN A MARINA THAT IS NOT E10. I heavily stabilize my fuel at storage levels, and avoid getting gasoline from infrequently used suppliers. There have been no issues thus far.
 
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