Kicker bracket

Maybe one of the other classic owners will kick in soon. I have an 84 classic but it is an 18' boat. It had one of the OMC motor mounts for the kicker.

Roger/SENSEI?

Byrdman
 
I used the kicker bracket made by OMC on my Arima with a 15 kicker. It looks like the mounting point would be roughly the same as on your boat and it has a hydraulic cylinder which eases in raising and lowering and worked for over 10 years prior to failing.
 
There is a 9.9 Honda mounted on the back of Journey On, using a Garelick adjustable mount. Just be careful as to the mount, because the lightest Honda 9.9 weighs 100 lbs. Even a Tohatsu 9.9 weighs 80 lbs.

Boris
 
I have a 9hp nissan on the leftrear corner of my 22' classic. I have a stainless mount with the dense PVC hanger plate. I upgraded from the wood lamiate type when the wood laminate literally exploded at 5mph, catapulting the running kicker head-over-screw into Sitka Sound. Luckily, the fuel tank acted as a bouy, and the fuel line was strong enough to yard up the sunken motor.

The new mount feels cheezy, but it works good. If you're interested, I'll go find the make and model. It looks almost identical to the West Marine model pictured in the post above, except it's got the stainless finish.
 
I have been actually dealing with the same issue, but for a 18HP which weights 118lbs.

This is what i found:

The first one i heard is now recommended by C-Dory and i have seen it on other boats. Http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/M ... lates.html

The next one is somewhat different, but looks like it could work.
http://www.panthermarineproducts.com/pm ... sku=550027

This one seems overkill, but maybe it could also work.
http://www.adventuremarine.net/motor-brackets.cfm

All are very simple, but with all the stories about the bracket failing and dropping the motor on the road or in the water, these seem the safest. My dealer is now trying to fit the first on on the boat to see if it clears the tabs and sounder. I'll let you know how it works out.

Jim
 
On our CD 16, our Yamaha 4HP O/B was mounted on a Garelick "STAINLESS STEEL AUXILIARY OUTBOARD MOTOR BRACKETS FOR 2-STROKE MOTORS" (models 71033, 71056, 71039). While it was difficult to operate and was anything but smooth in operation -- particularly for raising it back up, when we lowered the bracket from its up position, it positioned the Yamaha at such a shallow angle that it was possible to run the CD 16 in as little as 9 or 10 inches of water. On our Marinaut, MBC installed for our 9.9 HP kicker a Garelick "ALUMINUM AUXILIARY MOTOR BRACKET FOR 4-STROKE MOTORS" (MODEL NUMBERS 71091, 71090). This is a very robust bracket, which is very smooth and easy to operate. What's nice is that when the bracket is in the up position, the motor is positioned in a rather upright fashion. However, when it is lowered, it can maintain that shallow angle we were looking for. One might ask why it is important to run the kicker motor at such a shallow angle. The answer for me is that I occasionally, we operate our boat in very shallow water -- so shallow that we can not operate the main engine. In one case, I was with my brother-in-law, and helping him to find a spot for a mooring at very slow speed. We ran slightly aground. He offered to get out of the boat to push us to deeper water, but instead, I started the kicker and off we went toward deeper water. He exclaimed with surprise, "We're only in 9 inches of water!"

http://garelick.com/product.php?pnumber=71091
 
I did mean the Garelick 71091. I like this one because it has 15+ inches of travel. This allows the motor to sit up high, gives access and also drops far enough to get a good bite on the water. I don't see any real alternatives as the transom is so high. My 9" of travel on the current bracket does not seem like enough. The 71091 seem like it would not have enough travel either. I suppose I could also extend the shaft to an extra long shaft. I must be missing something here. This problem does not exist on the lower transom-later models
Chris
 
I am also interested in different kicker mounting bracket options for my 1985 Angler. I am always worried that the kicker will somehow slip off these types of brackets. It would be more secure if you could drill holes thru the bracket where the motor tightening bolts go than tighten it down with nuts. Tug
 
hi tug
I see that you have one of the extra long shaft motors. Some folks drill shallow holes where the motor attaches to the bracket. this way even if the motor slips a bit the the point of contact is recessed and the motor does not come off.
Chris
 
I made a very sturdy one out of 4 pieces of aluminum angle welded together,
and a mounting plate of several pieces of plywood bonded together with epoxy and epoxy coated. used some scrap aluminum and scrap plywood I had laying around. Total cost about 5 bucks for epoxy and some mounting bolts.

This mount is simple, cheap and very solid. So far about 1000 water miles and 8000 highway miles with no issues.

It would be easy enough to through bolt the motor mount to the wood if you did not trust the mounting clamps on your kicker.

I was able to play with mounting height before making the final attachment of the wood block to the aluminum. There is plenty of road clearance for me to leave it in the down position for highway travel. On the water I travel with it tilted up unless we are using it. There is just enough room between the generator and the lazerette wall for the motor to tilt up.

See it on photos #5, 6 and 8 in the Bixby's Cub album.

No remote throttle or shifting but I do have a snap on steering rod that connects to the main motor. I get 4-5 mph in calm water.
 
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