Kicker question

S

SeaSpray

Active member
I have a friend always lets the kicker run dry on fuel at the end of an outing. I think the reason is that he believes that if the fuel is left in the carb it can cause problems if the motor is not used for some time.

What do other think? If you are not going to use your kicker for a few weeks or more do you pull the fuel line and let it run dry? Is there a reason to not do this?

Steve
 
I normally drain the carbs, but on a 4 stroke you can let it run dry. On a 2 stroke with a mixed gas/oil I would be reluctant to let it run dry because it can starve the lubrication. An oil injected 2 stroke probably would be ok to do it, but still it is safest to drain the fuel. Also, when you pull the fuel connection there is no guarantee that it is going to fully drain the system...it can pull negative pressure on the system and just quit running due to temporary fuel starvation. Once the engine quits and the fuel line looses the negative pressure, residual fuel can fill the carb bowl, and cause problems. My 2 cents. Ron
 
I always disconnect and run it dry,no varnish in carb then always starts first try after bulb pump up.

Simple safe easy to do.

Regards Doug
 
I always run it dry after disconnecting the fuel line or shutting off the fuel at the valve. Pull the choke out after it starts to sputter to get it all the way clear of fuel.

I figure that since you're running the engine at idle or slightly above with no load on the engine, the 2 cycle oil keeps it lubricated well during the process.

Varnish from dried fuel/oil mixture is the ever-present evil that screws up most small motors, whether they are outboards, lawn and garden tools,, or whatever.

Get it out one way or another!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I may be doing it wrong but I never run my engines dry. Knock on wood I have avoided carb. trouble with my motors. I do splash the fuel tanks every once in a wile with sea foam. Not religious about it but I go heavy in the fall. To prep for winter. I am able to get the motors running 3-4 times a week in the summer that may be helpful to prevent varnish...I really don't know for sure. I would disconnect the fuel lines on my smaller 2 strokes as heat will force fuel into the motors from an the tanks from time to time. Never had trouble with the C-Dory doing that.

Chris
 
If you're not going to use the boat for a couple weeks, do people run the big motor (with carbs) dry, also? When people had older cars with carbs, did they run the motors dry before going on vacation for a couple weeks?

Just wonderin'.
 
The issue is the ethonal.

If left in the carb, the ethonal will absorb moisture from the air, and this ethonal / water combination is very corrosive. We've seen aluminum carb bowls seriously damaged by the corrosive action of the ethonal.

Run the small engine dry if you won't be running it for a few days or more, and run Sta-Bil marine formula all the time (1 oz in 10 gallons for normal use, 1 in 5 for winterization). Our customers doing this have had fewer problems.
 
Is Honda still the only mfg. whose carb bowls have a drain screw? Sure seems like a simple and inexpensive way to avoid this problem. Unfortunately from what I understand Honda's smaller portables under 8 hp aren't the strongest players in their outboard lineup. Best, Mike.
 
Matt Gurnsey":a4xe02bc said:
Run the small engine dry if you won't be running it for a few days or more, and run Sta-Bil marine formula all the time (1 oz in 10 gallons for normal use, 1 in 5 for winterization). Our customers doing this have had fewer problems.
Click to expand...

Matt ~ Any issues with using too much Sta-Bil? I picked some up today and plan to add it to my tanks. Hard to say exactly how many gallons are in each tank though.

IIRC my 2006 22 Cruiser has 20 gallon tanks. Does that sound right?

Al
 
Thanks for the responses. Sounds like the majority either run it dry or drain the carb. I have the Tohatsu 6hp and will start doing the same.
 
Note just for clarity that the discussion here is about older motors, with actual carburetors. Newer motors all have fuel injection and AFAIK running dry is never necessary with FI.

Warren
 
I just spent ~1.5 hr removing the carb from my 5hp honda it has some dried up fuel deposit in the float bowl that came loose and plugged the jet.

Some compressed air fixed it mighty quickly, and I scrapped out the hardened fuel deposit from the float bowl.

this thread is perfect timing - I usually out of habit run my Carb motors dry at the wash out station, however there are a few launch ramps in California that do not allow you to run the motor at the cleaning station (going greener I guess) . Last trip out I used one of them then tow 8 hrs' home so I never got to run them dry and guess what had to clean the carb on the kicker my main motor was fine :) :)

RUN THE CARB/FLOAT BOWL DRY if it's allowed at the wash out station every time.....it's a good habit.
 
Doryman":11hjrn5e said:
Note just for clarity that the discussion here is about older motors, with actual carburetors. Newer motors all have fuel injection and AFAIK running dry is never necessary with FI.

Warren
Click to expand...

Good point, Warren!

And I guess the fuel injection systems are petty much alcohol tolerant, at leas they seem to be so.

This is another good reason to use a fuel additive that acts both as a gas stabilizer/preservative and increases the alcohol tolerance of the engine and fuel system.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
C-Gypsy":3m30dyq5 said:
Matt ~ Any issues with using too much Sta-Bil?
Click to expand...

From the Sta-bil website FAQs.

Q: How much MARINE Formula STA-BIL® should I add to fuel?
A: For everyday in-season engine performance improvement and protection, use 1 ounce (30mL) in every 10 gallons (37.9 L). For seasonal storage and for fuel system clean-up, use 1 ounce (30mL) of MARINE Formula STA-BIL in 5 gallons (18.9 L). Again, over treatment is safe and will not harm engine.
Click to expand...
 
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