Need trailer for C-Dory 25

B

bcleme

New member
Hi,
I'm looking to purchase a C-Dory 25. If the boat doesn't come with a trailer, suggestions on how to obtain a reasonably priced trailer. I'm in Washington state but willing to travel to pick up a used one if need be. New ones seem a bit pricey and buying used sounds good - would any trailer able to handle a 25' boat - 8000# work, if it had for-aft bunks?

Thanks
 
Our 22 is on an EZ loader trailer and we are very happy with it. EZ Loader in Arlington has been very easy to work with so you might try them directly. Otherwise try EQ Harbor Services in Oak Harbor, or Kitsap Marine in Port Orchard.
 
Trailers for C-Dory's are quite different than for the typical V-bottom boat. I would think it would be difficult to find a suitable used one without substantial modifications.

Mine is from Pacific Trailers, they have two factories, one in Newark, CA (near San Jose), the other in Chino, SoCal. A couple of years ago a new one was approx $6K. I'd go aluminum instead of galvanized steel next time to save some weight. Mine is really for a 27ft boat, they had too many issues trying to adapt their 25ft model (in 2002). Another issue was getting the hull low enough on the trailer (for CG and ease of floating off/on the trailer during launch). They had to go to a 102" axle to allow it to sit between the fenders, 1/2" clearance on each side to the boat. I've been happy with the trailer.
 
Steve gives you some great advice. You want the boat as low on the trailer as possible--we also had about an inch between the fenders and hull--so you want side bunk boards. The bottoms are very flat, and you want long bunks or many rollers, not any significant "V" aft.

I have had mostly Aluminum trailers and good service out of them, with less weight. A dealer might save on transport for a new trailer.

I looked for a good used trailer for my 25--could not find one, so I bought a new one, built for the boat....There is a lot of junk out there! Beware.
 
EQ sold me a King Marine, which has been excellent. They also occasionally have a used one in stock. Might try them. They do a great job of setting the trailers up for the boat.
 
First of all, for a C-25 you need a trailer with a net carrying capacity of 7500#. And if you buy a new trailer, I strongly recommend electric over hydraulic brakes. They only cost me a~200 over the surge brakes when I ordered the trailer (with the boat.) They make a huge difference in controlling the trailer with boat.

Journey On rides on an E-Z Loader trailer and I've been happy. They now come in aluminum, and anything that reduces the weight and corrosion seems good. The support where the bow is fastened is really sturdy, so the boat can't slide forward in a sudden/unplanned stop. I like roller bunks, others don't. Rollers make loading and unloading easy, especially at some of the unusual launch ramps we've seen. They also have oil filled hubs.

Here is a post on King trailers: King Trailer Service.

I don't use an equalizer hitch, but then I tow with a 3/4 ton truck. for a lighter duty truck, ask about an equalizer hitch.

Boris
 
My king came with an owners manual which had the part numbers. I haven't checked online to see if the manual is there in their website but wouldn't be surprised.
 
K and EZ loader use adjustable bunk brackets, which makes adjusting teh trailer very easy. On the Kings the brackets that are usually on the outboard side for a V-Hull are moved inboard, and the shorter inboard brackets moved out. This sets the boat low on the frame and gives good support.

King has the fit sheet for the C-Dory 25, so any dealer can order one to fit. Their KBT6000 is the model we used on the 25's.

As far as aluminum- and this is personal preference- but we find that there are an awful lof of galvanized components on aluminum trailers so longevity isn't going to be any different than a galvanized trailer. We've also seen a lot of aluminum trailers where the bunks are 4x6 material on edge, and this is what gives significant structural support to the trailer. We've seen some aluminum trailers with side load guides that if you pull on the top of the guide it will flex the entire frame. So not all aluminum trailers are created equal, and cheaper is probably just that- cheaper.

In six years we've sold one EZ Loader aluminum trailer versus hundreds of galvanized. We do see more aluminum trailers sold in the southern atlantic and gulf areas. We have heard reports of fasteners pulling through aluminum frames in Alaska from the harsh roads. Again- a better built trailer will hold up longer.

So in the end- saving a couple hundred pounds probably isn't worth the added expense of aluminum at least on a boat as big as the 25 Cruiser.

As always, my 2 cents, your milage may vary and the advice is worth what you paid for it. :wink:
 
Matt Gurnsey":370jdxls said:
King has the fit sheet for the C-Dory 25, so any dealer can order one to fit. Their KBT6000 is the model we used on the 25's.
Click to expand...

Matt - I'm curious about the trailers that the dealers seem to be using for the 25. I bought my 2008 CD25 earlier this year and after spending some time on trailer maintenance, I realized that my EZ Loader trailer was rated for 5700lb capacity, total combined weight of about 7,500lbs. That's very similar in spec to the King KBT6000 you mention.

Given that people are seeing cruising-loaded CD25s on the trailer coming in at 8,500lbs, aren't we at risk here? I don't know what safety factors are built in to the capacity ratings or how conservative they are, but I have to admit....I now have an uneasy feeling when I trailer my boat.
 
The King KBT 6000 is rated at 6000 lbs load capacity--and that is too low for a C Dory 25! I would go at least 6500, and better 7500 load capacity. You may get away with the 6000 lb capacity with a light boat--no gear, no fuel or water etc...but when you are ready to cruise then the weight will be significantly more.

As for the Aluminum trailers--the good ones do NOT use galvanized bolts and most fittings, instead use SS. You are best served with gasket material between the aluminum and galvanized metals.

If you can find a electric over hydraulic for $200, jump on it! We see them going $600 to $1200 more. Also get Kodiak brakes, not Tie Down. Also research the hubs.

We had tire problems the first year. After that we went to an equalizing hitch and made sure that the trailer was exactly level. With those adjustments, no more tire problems noted in 10,000 miles of towing.
 
It was interesting when we became a dealer that the factory offered the 25 Cruiser on a 5400 pound capacity trailer, which seemed to light. I would agree stepping up to the 7000 pound capacity trailer might be prudent.

Part of the problem is that the 25 can carry a lot of gear, and when loaded up can get pretty heavy. Depends on how you plan to use the boat. If your trailer package with boat on it is coming in at 8500 pounds, then the 7000 pound capacity trailer would be a better fit.

I just double checked, and the last 25 we sold went out on a KBT7000 trailer, 7000 pound capacity.

Bob's right- good aluminum trailers will use SS and spacers, but we've seen a lot that didn't. We saw one dealer at a show with very low cost "Aluminum" trailers that other than the side rails were all galvanized. And those side rails were very flexable.
 
I have magic tilt with side boards electric over hydraulic aluminum Approx 3 yrs old with spare tire.trailer was set up for CD 25. Approx 6K new. Make an offer.
 
A couple of questions.

First, why is stainless better than galvanized on an aluminum trailer? If you mix stainless and aluminum on a salt water boat, that's instant corrosion. I had to install spacers to stop that corrosion on Our Journey, our last sailboat. And, BTW, stainless on stainless tends to gall, so use good lubricant. I would guess that galvanized and aluminum don't corrode.

Second, since I have a galvanized trailer, where can you find stainless U-bolts? The trailer suppliers have smaller ones, but not the size E-Z Loader uses.

Also, UCLA 38, USC 28.

Boris
 
I have been trolling this site for a couple of years and just became a happy owner of a 2006 Cdory 25. Does anyone have any suggestions on a trailer? I am on the East Coast near Richmond, VA.

Thanks!
 
Hi there,
We also have been thinking of buying a trailer for our C-Dory. Venture trailers are fairly inexpensive and of good quality. We are about to buy a slightly used one, model 7225, here in Michigan. But Venture trailers are out of Baltimore, so very close to you!
Before we finalize our Venture trailer purchase, do any of you C-Brats have an opinion on Venture trailers?
Good luck!
 
stclairgal":2u0komwl said:
Hi there,
We also have been thinking of buying a trailer for our C-Dory. Venture trailers are fairly inexpensive and of good quality. We are about to buy a slightly used one, model 7225, here in Michigan. But Venture trailers are out of Baltimore, so very close to you!
Before we finalize our Venture trailer purchase, do any of you C-Brats have an opinion on Venture trailers?
Good luck!
Click to expand...

I have a Venture trailer, VATB 8025 I believe, for my C-Dory 26 Venture
(coincidental naming by others).

It is an aluminum tandem trailer with rear bunks slotted for lifting straps. The
dealer added forward bunks to it before delivery (5/14) to support the mid and
forward sections of the boat better than the stock unit. There are surge brakes
which seem adequate and, when loaded, it tows just fine. No complaints. Cost
about $3600.

I had a triple axle Eagle painted steel trailer for a 28' powerboat previously.
Since I wanted to launch the C-Dory in salt water, I went aluminum for it.
The tandem trailer turns better at slow speed compared to the triple axle one
which also was difficult to launch with a fork lift (when a ramp wet launch was
not wanted or not available) due to no slotted bunks for lifting straps.

Happy towing.

Aye.
 
mclaughlinrk":34leam3x said:
I was just quoted $3999 for a 8700lb trailer, is that overkill for the 25'?
Click to expand...

I don't think so, weight-wise.

Triple or tandem axle?

Aluminum or steel?

Galvanized or painted, if steel?

Bunk or roller?

Surge brakes?

Discs or drums?

And on how many axles?

I bought a Venture aluminum 8600 lb triple axle bunk trailer with disc brakes on the front two axles for a little over $4000 back about 5-7 years ago.
Paid $600 to have it transported from Pennsylvania to Barstow, Ca where I picked it up.
Good trailer! (For my Sea Ray 265 Sedan Bridge.)

Sounds like you're in the ballpark!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
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