No house electronics--weird problem

Tom is correct, one of the problems was that the "load test" voltage was tested at the windlass--not at the battery, when using the windlass as a load. If the voltage had been tested at the battery, it would have shown no drop in voltage. (and the windlass would not have engaged). The high resistance (not enough conductivity) was from the wiring from the battery to the ground (as I read the results)

That $20 battery load tester either from Amazon or Harbor freight would have saved a lot of trips to Wallyworld, and a sore back!

Incidentally CCA (cold cranking amps) does not relate directly to Amp hours. The Amp hours is what we want to follow in our house batteries.
 
thataway":3koc2100 said:
Tom is correct, one of the problems was that the "load test" voltage was tested at the windlass--not at the battery, when using the windlass as a load. If the voltage had been tested at the battery, it would have shown no drop in voltage. (and the windlass would not have engaged). The high resistance (not enough conductivity) was from the wiring from the battery to the ground (as I read the results)

That $20 battery load tester either from Amazon or Harbor freight would have saved a lot of trips to Wallyworld, and a sore back!

Incidentally CCA (cold cranking amps) does not relate directly to Amp hours. The Amp hours is what we want to follow in our house batteries.
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I did order the load tester as recommended, and received it yesterday about four hours after Wally World. :) It is shocking how heavy a group 31 is, especially when trying to thread it into a battery compartment and not break your fingers! Glad to have this tool for next time.
 
starcrafttom":3ffgushz said:
Glad you have it figured out. I just want to point out something to every one. You did a load test with the battery hooked up to the boat and using just a volt meter to see if the load dropped when you closed that circuit. voltage dropped to 0 but when you tested just the battery it was ok. This is why a $20 dollar tester is such a great tool. if you had tested as you did and then took off the cables and tested again with just the load tester you would have know right then that is was a connection, wire or ground. Dont get fooled with doing a load test with just a meter. Stating this for everyone reading .
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Thanks Tom! Sage advice, still learning...
bmc
 
thataway":38q3857y said:
Glad to see you got the issues solved! Be sure and adhesive heat shrink every swaged joint. (Which means every joint--especially with your history of corrosion).

That much corrosion suggests one of two items--either the wire was not tinned properly in the first place (Always use marine grade tinned wire), or the wire was submerged in salt water at some time (could have wicked the salt water up the wire). Some folks use welding cable for the heavy wire in boat--it's cheaper. I have seen that fail due to corrosion.

Whenever I run a wire, I put a 1/8" piece of nylon or dacron cord along that "run" then it is easy to pull the next wire you put in that "run"--when pulling a wire with that cord, have another cord in place, and then re-use the first "string" or cord.
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I like the dacron idea, and will use that. Unfortunately the old wires are well ziptied into a large bundle, and won't easily come out, or I'd use them to pull the new ones.

I did in fact use adhesive shrink tubing on all cables, about 2" each, and marine wire. In my case, what happened was the boot where control cables pass through the transom to the motors had failed, and I became aware (much too late) how much spray was getting into the starboard battery compartment (which is where all of my electrical connections live also). I do believe the wicking/capillary action is what happened, in spite of the old cables being pretty well sealed.

For now, I'm using a sponge in a plastic bag to seal the control hole against water intrusion, and I'm looking to make a long boot from PVC cloth or similar, such that this won't be able to happen again. The old rubber boots are such junk, and never seem to last more than a couple of years. I've also not ever found one that has a split side (like a replacement CV boot) such that it can be installed without removing control cables. Open to suggestions here, as always!

Thanks,
bmc
 
bmacpiper":350gyrzd said:
I like the dacron idea, and will use that. Unfortunately the old wires are well ziptied into a large bundle, and won't easily come out, or I'd use them to pull the new ones.

In my case, what happened was the boot where control cables pass through the transom to the motors had failed, and I became aware (much too late) how much spray was getting into the starboard battery compartment (which is where all of my electrical connections live also). I do believe the wicking/capillary action is what happened, in spite of the old cables being pretty well sealed.

I've also not ever found one that has a split side (like a replacement CV boot) such that it can be installed without removing control cables. Open to suggestions here, as always!

Thanks,
bmc
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Here is split boot and ring from Attwood. sometimes this is a place to use a silicone or LifeSeal/Life caulk to completely seal the top and middle of the boot after pulled tight with a Zip Tie, and to seal the edge of the split (which is kept facing down).

Sometimes liquid tape is necessary for complete seal. Generally the "Adhesive" shrink wrap is the key--this prevents wicking and corrosion.

I often run the first line for a pull with an electrician's fishing tape. I use more zip ties to hold the new cables in place. Don't know how many cables are being abandoned, but if a significant number, you may want to pull them out, and then replace the zip ties.

Sounds like all is under control.
 
thataway":hdinhh6a said:
Here is split boot and ring from Attwood. sometimes this is a place to use a silicone or LifeSeal/Life caulk to completely seal the top and middle of the boot after pulled tight with a Zip Tie, and to seal the edge of the split (which is kept facing down).

Sometimes liquid tape is necessary for complete seal. Generally the "Adhesive" shrink wrap is the key--this prevents wicking and corrosion.

I often run the first line for a pull with an electrician's fishing tape. I use more zip ties to hold the new cables in place. Don't know how many cables are being abandoned, but if a significant number, you may want to pull them out, and then replace the zip ties.

Sounds like all is under control.
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Thanks again Bob. I will get one of those on order, and see how it goes.

I went to run the new red/black wires up to the cabin yesterday and found an interesting configuration (conflagration?) with the old one. There is a small bundle that includes positive and I think negative (all covered in braid so hard to tell), and that bundle goes down to just above the starboard fuel tank, and is bent 180 back on itself and taped on the bend. At the actual bend, a smaller bundle emerges and goes to the bilge pump. I'm guessing, here, but since bilge pumps usually come with short wires in my experience, I'm thinking maybe the original rigger ran the wires to the dash switch for the bilge pump, and tapped into the main positive wire so the pump can run when all batteries are off. There are two small ground wires on the rear block that I haven't traced yet, one of those could be bilge or it may be tapped into the main ground going forward also. This all wouldn't have been my first choice.

So I held off on running the new wires, for fear that when I disconnected the old positive and/or ground leads, I'd lose my bilge pump. Went out and caught a few crab (including a monster dungeness, just under 8") and will ruminate on this and consider how much I don't want to disassemble the bundle of wires I mentioned! :) I may have to bite the bullet and remove the starboard pocket, and have at it.

Also found my hydraulic steering to be "bumpy", i.e. like air bubbles, but that's another thread. Probably just needs to be topped up and bled, another skill to learn on this boat!

Best,
bmc
 
Pretty good chance you can just top the fluid off at the helm pump. I do this as inspection at least once a month. Mine had been leaking at the helm pump for some time. The seal kit is not that expensive, and resolves any leaking there. Back aft, isa bit more to replace the seals, but a DIY project. Fine grit/sand and dog hair can slowly damage the seals. Inspection of the rod, at each outing is a good idea--both to wipe clean, and look for any leak. Takes a second--make it part of checking the oil in the engines routine.
 
bmacpiper":28asb2hk said:
smckean (Tosca)":28asb2hk said:
bmacpiper,
All lugs and cables are clean and installed with dielectric grease.
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Was the grease put on before the connections were established, or after?
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Both! :)
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Obviously dielectric grease was NOT your problem, nor do I think that grease would ever cause such problems, but I've often wondered how exactly to use this grease.

Dielectric grease is JUST that: a dielectric....which means it does not conduct electricity, but is instead, it is an insulator. So it has puzzled me why I would put it on before I made a connection. I've done some research on this, and sure enough the "experts" seem to say to put it on after the connection has been made (which makes sense). The dielectric grease is there to stop any spurious or accidental electric flows and to protect against corrosion.

Even though dielectric grease could increase the resistance of a connection, I've read that the pressure of the nut on the post and connectors squeezes out the grease between the metal connectors, and does not harm the conductivity of the connection, but I have no proof of that.

I try to put on the grease after I make the tight connection since I want the best connection possible, but it sure is easier to put the grease on first. I continue to wonder if it matters???????
 
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