A specific answer to Marco Flaminco's question about belts and suspenders. This is a quote from a poster on Trawler Forum, which Marco also frequents.
One of the Major functions of the Battery Management System (BMS) is that it monitors temperatures in the battery (both hot and cold cutoffs). For many the low temp cutoff could be an issue, and a heated battery (which detracts from its full capacity) would be a good choice in AK, or even any latitudes where there is frequent freezing weather.
The below is quoted from Eco-worthy.com:
When we had the Chinese "500 amp" rated switch blow up, the current draw was 300 amps. I was watching the Victron monitor. BMS didn't shut down the batteries, and the 500 amp fuse didn't blow. On the other hand 300 amps is a significant amount of current and other than starting the engine, it is rarely achieved. In this case I had both the microwave and induction burner on "Hi", as a test of the components, as well as preparing to fix dinner. I was using two different 120 volt outlets, each on a 15 amp breaker on the 120 V AC panel (under the aft dinette seat.). I have never done a high current analysis of the starter on the Honda 150 outboard, But the engine start battery was a group 24 FLA battery, My engine was a 2007 and should have the same specs as later Honda 150 battery requirements: 64Ah/5HR 80Ah/20HR. CCA 622. MCA 809. Generally the Honda 150s take somewhere in the 200 to 300 amps to start the 150 outboards. So that is not an unusual load. However if one monitor's the voltage on starting the FLA will often drop to 9 to 11 Volts during this high current draw period. There are some LiFePO4 batteries rated to start engines, but many that application is to be avoided. That is why good policy to have FLA as starting battery, and then the DC to DC charger is running off that FLA start battery.
One of the Major functions of the Battery Management System (BMS) is that it monitors temperatures in the battery (both hot and cold cutoffs). For many the low temp cutoff could be an issue, and a heated battery (which detracts from its full capacity) would be a good choice in AK, or even any latitudes where there is frequent freezing weather.
The below is quoted from Eco-worthy.com:
When we had the Chinese "500 amp" rated switch blow up, the current draw was 300 amps. I was watching the Victron monitor. BMS didn't shut down the batteries, and the 500 amp fuse didn't blow. On the other hand 300 amps is a significant amount of current and other than starting the engine, it is rarely achieved. In this case I had both the microwave and induction burner on "Hi", as a test of the components, as well as preparing to fix dinner. I was using two different 120 volt outlets, each on a 15 amp breaker on the 120 V AC panel (under the aft dinette seat.). I have never done a high current analysis of the starter on the Honda 150 outboard, But the engine start battery was a group 24 FLA battery, My engine was a 2007 and should have the same specs as later Honda 150 battery requirements: 64Ah/5HR 80Ah/20HR. CCA 622. MCA 809. Generally the Honda 150s take somewhere in the 200 to 300 amps to start the 150 outboards. So that is not an unusual load. However if one monitor's the voltage on starting the FLA will often drop to 9 to 11 Volts during this high current draw period. There are some LiFePO4 batteries rated to start engines, but many that application is to be avoided. That is why good policy to have FLA as starting battery, and then the DC to DC charger is running off that FLA start battery.
