Single Handing Safety Tips and Considerations

[hardee]

I am curious to know from those who single hand, or have, what are some of the safety practices that you use, or know of, to enhance the single hand experience and increase the safety issues.

I have been doing a fair amount of single handing and even though I think I am a pretty safety conscious boater, I am thinking there are things I could learn, and/or do that could improve my chances of avoiding an unintentional dunking….. or worse.

Here are some of my practices that have worked so far:

 PFD, ON always. PFD has a strobe and a handheld VHF attached.
 Radio Check when leaving the harbor. (Fortunately we have a robot radio in the area. VHF28, for a recorded check.) Done with both fixed mount VHF’s.
 Weather check prior to launch or leaving dock.
 Float plan, filed by phone with leaving from where and destination with an ETA.
 Fuel availability prior to leaving and in route and battery monitoring in route.
 Chart Plotter and stand-alone GPS for backup, on always.
 Radar, on always.
 AIS on always.
 With Auto Pilot running, stay out of the cockpit at anything above an idle, (for retrieving or deploying fenders.)
 Stay in the cabin or cockpit, out of the V-birth and off the bow deck or cabin side gunnels.
 Maintain station awareness, scan gauges and screens regularly and frequently, BUT maintain an eye out for floaters, (forward), and traffic, (all around).
 Do not be shy about using the VHF if there is a concern or confusion regarding other traffic.
 Rest when weary.

I would be happy to hear from any one regarding improvements or additions to this that could be helpful.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[westward]

Those are great suggestions, indicating you are a very safe boater. Prior to a potentially rough crossing: start and warm up the kicker (for those of us with main/kicker setup), and do not leave without adequate fuel reserves.

 

[jkidd]

All of those are good anything that requires me to go forward and I'm in neutral and stopped. I think all the time about being in the water and the boat drifting away.

 

[Wigeon]

A great post that makes one think. A possible suggestion could be, ensure anchor is ready and able to be deployed and dinghy can be launched quickly and easily. Larry

 

[Robert H. Wilkinson]

Harvey, excellent post and all good tips! Thanks, its been slow here the last few days!

Jody, another good tip. We were told when we rented the houseboat that under the right conditions(any wind) it could drift faster than an Olympic swimmer could swim. Wouldn't be much hope of me catching it!!

Westward, also a great tip. Seven years ago(on bass opening day) I was fishing 20 miles from home(Lake Erie). Got rough heading home. First 12 miles into a head sea took 3 hours. After crossing the sand bar into the inner bay I was able to get up on plane for the last 8 miles. Learned a lot on that trip. I was in my 16' Thundercraft - other than a few sailboats farther offshore I was the only boat around. I knew I was on my own so one thing I did was put your tip into action. I was carrying 3 portable tanks and 2 separate fuel lines and primer bulbs so I connected 1 to my kicker and had it already to go at a moments notice.

A few more good ideas;

Keep your flare gun close to hand.

Keep a life ring or extra life jacket in the cockpit. Holding onto a second life jacket keeps more of your body out of the water, perhaps holding hyperthermia at bay for a bit longer. Also making you a little more visible.

Another good thing to attach to your life jacket is a Fox 40 whistle.

Never stand on a seat to pee over the side. Unfortunately a lot of boaters singlehanding(no pun intended) have died with their pants down - literally.

If you have to go forward or onto the swim platform during rough weather don't be shy about securing a tether. Sailors use a safety harness - power boaters should be no different when operating under the same conditions.

Regards, Rob

 

['o cino]

Anytime it's a solo venture, the EPIRB is on my person attached to the PFD which is a CO2 type, and is not bulky. A Fox Storm Whistle and AA strobe as others have mentioned is also attached. Personally, I like the ResQFix over the Spot, but any brand will take the "search" out of SAR. I also keep the deck clear of the usual stuff like scuba tanks, weight belts, etc, and go through what's going to happen on the trip in my head before leaving dock. The pre-thinking really works In San Diego, the water's cold, so I keep a large trashbag folded up in a pocket to use as a water sack if MOB for a while. I also keep the hotel showercaps that are free, as it'll cover your head, and save a lot of heat for a half-dollar sized piece of plastic in the pocket. My wife is trained to worry about the call you get, not the one you don't get...and plans usually build-in a 2 hour give-take.

 

[thataway]

Along with the PLB on one's vest, the strobe, and whistle--you want a waterproof VHF radio--these days with DSC! You often can summon help much faster with a radio. PLB (EPRIB--not spot or InReach), initiation of SAR will be at least 30 minutes in most areas. In the PNW--where water is much colder than even San Diego--you can die from hypothermia in that length of time. Why not Spot type? Depends on private company to relay the message to authorities, and there have been breakdowns in the chain with private companies--with loss of lives.

I also wore a float coat. Not only buoyancy, but many have a "crotch strap" where you can keep the coat from riding up and preserve more heat.

 

[Foggy]

Along with a PLB, I would add a safety harness and tether so you
can "clip on'' moving around outside bow to stern.

Also, even at anchor, it's always good to have a boarding ladder,
or similar, in reach to assist getting back aboard if you ever end
up in the water.

Aye.

 

[Sunbeam]

I don't do all the same things you do, but of course there is quite a bit of overlap. I do add a couple. Also, some of my practices depend on the body of water and conditions; others are for everywhere and or are consistent habits. I guess I'd say I subscribe to the "black box theory," wherein if you do things properly even when it's not necessary, it puts points into the box for when things hit the fan.

A few things on my list:

--Always, always have one or more anchors ready to let go (brakes ).

Before getting underway:

--Check the engine(s) in forward and reverse before getting underway, plus run the steering stop to stop.
--Turn on depth sounder (I imagine that is included in chartplotter for you - I also have a separate one).
--Make sure my paper charts or paper chartbooks are to hand.
--Water and snack to hand in case I can't get away from the helm.
--Sunglasses on or nearby.
--Even if I don't have to go before getting underway, "at least try," as Mom used to say before bundling us into our snowsuits, boots, mittens and hats

Harvey, you say you don't go out on the foredeck. I'm curious, how do you anchor or get away from an anchorage then? I take the opposite tack and go forward to do things whenever necessary, which hopefully also develops my motor memory for handholds, etc. (typically this is letting go the anchor and then getting away from an anchorage). That's not to say there mightn't be conditions in which I would NOT go forward, but I can't imagine running the boat without that ability/practice (most of the time).

I'm also interested that you run the autopilot when deploying fenders -- I guess you mean you set it to circle around or something while you do it out in the harbor? I just idle and drift, myself, or if I've just been anchored a short way away put them out before getting underway.

****
This fall on Powell was my first time truly single-handing a "big" boat (i.e. not a kayak, rowboat, daysailor, runabout, or dinghy just out for a day trip). I had long-distance sailed double-handed - which is kind of like single-handing for eight hours a day, but still not quite the same. Of course I was hyper aware of the type of things that might happen as a result. I was careful and had routines underway, didn't leave the cabin unless in neutral, worked the foredeck carefully, always one hand for the boat when moving around. I transferred to dinghy carefully, tried not to turn an ankle when hiking in the canyons, watched for snakes, brought plenty of water, etc. etc.

Then I gave myself a nasty cut while slicing a lime during dinner prep :amgry Those darned mundane tasks! That was interesting, since I was bleeding like crazy, it was nearly dark, and I had no VHF reception, nor any cellular/Internet signal. I was far enough out that there was no way I was going in ... guess I have to take care of this one on my own! I was able to get it to stop bleeding and made it through the night (although it hurt like crazy but I didn't want to take any pain meds since I'd be heading back in solo). The next morning was TRUE single-handing, LOL. Got the anchors up with one hand and a foot, brought dinghy aboard, got underway, and headed back in. "Cut" my trip a bit short, but I did still get a couple weeks out, and it was great except for the "lime incident."

I learned that I needed to bolster my first-aid kit - could have used some butterfly bandages. It's ironic, as I had put together a major, major medical kit for sailing offshore.... obviously way too large and comprehensive to bring aboard the C-Dory... but.... what I did have was slightly lacking, although I made it work. Since it was too late to stitch by the time I was able to get back to "land" and to a doctor, the butterfly bandages (aka steri-strips) might have helped (OTOH the doctor said sometimes it's better to leave things "open," so I'm not completely sure). At any rate, the C-Dory medical kit is getting a look over.

 

[gulfcoast john]

Use/clip on your engines kill lanyard. Engines off if away from helm for any reason whatsoever, including removing fenders. Even in neutral the thru-prop exhaust thrust of 2 Yami F150's will move my boat much faster than I could swim if unconscious.
No Exceptions for me.
Of course, YMMD.

To echo Foggy, every solo skipper needs a way to re-board without assistance when she finds herself in the water. For those with Armstrong/Windline 'dive ladders' just mount it upside down with a bungey to keep it from jumping out of place while crossing your local inlet/ bar.

Unlike Sunbeam, I fear an accidental windlass/anchor 'down' deployment from my knee hitting the 'down' toggle in rough conditions. I 'disable' the thermal breaker before getting underway and when trailering and 'enable' it on arrival to prevent that remote possibility.

SOLAS approval is much tougher than USCG; look and pay for it for Type 1 offshore life jackets, strobes, whistles, flares, and all other Safety Of Life At Sea issues. I replaced my ACR C-strobe and ACR Firefly 2 with Revere SOLAS See-Me strobes, they are on Ebay for 1 more day.

Add a Clot Pack or 4 to your Medical Kit... this is modern war wound technology brought to the masses cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/Quikclot-Advanced ... =CLOT+PACK

Sunbeam is right.
Free advice from a doc over 60 this year...Guys, ALWAYS sit down to pee...it straightens out the path from your bladder to your Special Purpose Gear. And lessens the temptation to write your name in the water, which leads to more overboard deaths than any other, bar none, like Sunbeam says.

Print out and post your Float Plan with a picture of your boat and tape it to the inside driver side window of your tow truck at launch site.

Get a free local Vessel Safety inspection and apply the decal to both sides. My CG buds say they have many other fish to fry than those who take the trouble to be safety conscious and then display the decal.

Cheers!
John

 

[Sunbeam]

Unlike Sunbeam, I fear an accidental windlass/anchor 'down' deployment from my knee hitting the 'down' toggle in rough conditions. I 'disable' the thermal breaker before getting underway and when trailering and 'enable' it on arrival to prevent that remote possibility.

I think you might be confusing me with someone else. I don't have a windlass mounted to my C-Dory at present. I do have one in a box that I have considered installing, and putting the switch in an "unlikely to be bumped" area is something I was looking at for the reason you mention.

I DO secure the anchor to the roller/boat (both when trailering and when underway) with two different (independent) lines; however they are quick to remove, so I consider that "ready to let go."

 

[williwaw]

I've often thought about this when sitting on anchor on the Columbia River. It's very cold most the year and if you fall overboard the current is so strong there is no chance you'll make it back to the boat.

Fortunately the technology seems to have arrived (at the right price points) so this year it's a PLB and hand-held VHF with DSC/GPS. I like the DSC angle as it's possible some other boat may be in the area and get the alert WAY before any official response. Time of of the essence in cold water. I also like Bob's idea of the float coat to retain heat. That seems like a reasonable trade-off of safety and comfort.

 

[Robert H. Wilkinson]

--Always, always have one or more anchors ready to let go (brakes ).

If I may add to this - whether or not you ever plan to anchor - practise, and become familiar with the equipment and procedure. Emergency situations are breeding grounds for panic - this leads to mistakes being made. I have had to drop anchor(very quickly) twice after loosing power. The first time I would have been blown into heavy weeds, the second time onto a rock shoal.

--Water and snack to hand in case I can't get away from the helm.

Might sound like a "comfort" suggestion but believe me it does belong in the "safety" list. 3 years ago on Lake Erie my white knuckles were glued to the helm for 7 hours. In this situation a hydrating drink like Gatorade or Water is very important. Of coarse alcohol is a no no, but any drink with caffeine(like pop) and a lot of fruit juices can be diuretic which can cause "other" problems if you cannot leave the helm.

Another idea is to have a second anchor and rode that can be deployed from the cockpit. After being deployed and set it can be secured to a mid cleat while you go forward line in hand and secure it to the bow cleat. This method can be useful singlehanding on a pilothouse boat where a quick dash to the bow is difficult. It is also easier on the back. Another option if you are nervous going forward is to run a line(before leaving port) from the cockpit through the bow eye and back to the cockpit. After setting the anchor and securing it to a mid cleat this line can be used to pull the rode forward to the bow eye. This line can then be secured to the opposite mid cleat.

Regards, Rob

 

[Sunbeam]

Add a Clot Pack or 4 to your Medical Kit... this is modern war wound technology brought to the masses cheap.

I missed this on my first reading of your post. These are something I had not heard of and they look useful (could have used one in the "lime incident"). Thanks for the tip.

 

[JPL]

+ one for clotting medicine. I end up using it often with kids in the house, neighborhood dogs that get attacked by random dogs and other random things. The newest generation available to consumers is Celox. I like the kind that comes in a bag and you can dump out on what ever is bleeding. It comes in 2G bags for cuts and scratches and 35g bags for serious things.


http://www.amazon.com/Celox-V12090-35-B ... ox+30+gram

 

[Casey]

There are a number of good solo-safety suggetions here.

I'll throw in two suggestions. They're not in the safety realm, but they add to to the convenience factor.

We always keep "fixed" bow and stern lines in place for both port and starboard. The four bitter ends of the lines are secured in cam-cleats mounted on the gunnel near midship location (where you generally get on/off the boat). Having the lines fixed in those locations make line handling at the dock much easier.

We cruise with only three fenders (less stuff to store). One round (Norwegian?) fender that is deployed through the cabin window and secured to the port/starboard midship cleat. Each conventional fender is kept tied to the outside handholds on the aft side of the cabin. If properly tied off, it's simple to merely flop the appropriate fender over the gunnel prior to making your approach to the dock.

If conditions at the dock are rough you still have a third fender to use when necessary. ...and don't forget your Type IV PFD (flotation cushion). In rare conditions it can also serve as a fender.

These simple practices can simplify boat handling in a busy marina.

Best,
Casey&Mary

 

[Robert H. Wilkinson]

I also wore a float coat. Not only buoyancy, but many have a "crotch strap" where you can keep the coat from riding up and preserve more heat.

My son and I fish late Oct. in northern Ontario. I wear a float coat as a overcoat. It is a good windbreak keeps you fairly warm and doubles duty as raingear.

Casey's idea re. dock lines is good. My wife would usually start removing fenders and lines as we left the ramp. 2 years ago we were half way up the first fairway and our overheating alarm sounded. We tucked into a vacant slip and fixed the problem(flush port cap not on tight). We still remove lines and fenders on Lake Erie but we now idle out into the lake first. On the return we power off before entering and re attach everything. I had a guy in a small fishing boat pass me on the fairway coming into the marina one day. When I got to the ramp he was still fumbling with his dock lines trying to tie up.

A dock hook is a good thing to keep handy when singlehanding.

Regards, Rob

 

[NewMoon]

Lots of great ideas!

I do a lot of single-handing, mostly in some pretty out-there parts of BC and SE Alaska - crossing the Dixon Entrance, for instance.

Though I'm generally pretty conservative about weather and sea state, one thing I do quite consciously when single-handing is to be even more conservative. For instance, I don't set out on a major crossing when the forecast is for more than 15 knots, or existing conditions are wind waves greater than 3 feet. Most especially when the wind and tidal currents are going to be opposed.

 

[Casey]

I guess one of the items I failed to mention should also be in your cruising practices.

It goes along with the old saying: "A place for everything, and everything in its place."

When you're boating (alone or with a crew) know where certain items are stored can be Very helpful. Routinely keeping your lines and fenders in a certain place (and secured in a consistent way) can be helpful. The same goes for items like your binoculars, a flashlight, your search light, fire extinguisher & flares, tow line and bridle, tool box, knife, etc. etc. You many not realize how handy being organized is until that dark-and-stormy night when you desperately need something.

Best,
C&M

 

[Foggy]

Let's get real.

Everyone isn't always going to have everything they need aboard to remedy the
mirad of emergency situations that can occur while single handling their style
of sea going vessel.

Murphy's Law predicts that you will need the one thing you don't have when you
need it most.

So, what to do?

I've found, over the past 50 years afloat, using more common sense (compared to
stuffing every available space full of things someone else said you might need) works
very well indeed.

And, if you have to put emphasis somewhere, put it in studying weather.

Aye.