Our favorite cruising mods, 2026

Gulfcoast John

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Joined
Dec 14, 2012
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C Dory Year
2010
C Dory Model
255 Tomcat
Vessel Name
CAT 'O MINE
The 15K BTU Coleman AC croaked because I never cleaned the coils, which required removing the radar mast, dome, hailer, anchor light and pole plus wiring. We replaced it with a Dometic which is lighter (65 vs 100#) and a Dometic Soft Start module designed specifically for that compressor, which makes load management easier.

I’m leaving radar off because the next Adventure is back up to do the Triangle Loop into Canada. That requires a under 8 foot air draft to cruise the historic Lachine Canal right through downtown Montreal, rather than the awful Seaway Locks. Thanks to Pat Clause for that tip so many years ago. I like to think I helped convince at least six C-Dory crew to try that alternative over the past three years. And we can do it counterclockwise despite the 8 MPH current at Montreal, which the trawlers can’t fight. That allows doing both the Triangle Loop (Albany to Lake Champlain, take a left at Sorel onto the St L to Montreal, to Ottawa and come out at Kingston on Lake Ontario. From there you’re only 70 miles from the start of the Trent-Severn to Georgian Bay to Lake Michigan). For many cruisers the best parts are those Canadian segments.
our 10 yr loop.jpg



We still advocate our all-Phifertex 9 panel camper back for total privacy without clear vinyl while allowing ventilation.
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Folks over 70 (us) who are admitted after a fall have a 70% chance of being dead in 12 months. DON'T FALL! I added grab rails over the aft, galley, and fridge cabinets (doubles as a grab rail for Eileen in rough seas). Outside, over the cabin door and over both deck fills. Bolt those over the overhang, not through the roof. Deckadence carpet is better in a fall than teak/other hard surfaces. We wash both sections in a commercial washer with Clorox and hot water. Bob has described less expensive alternatives.

Ditto Bob, get a Kill-O-watt to measure the amp draw for every 110v appliance, and label each for easier load management. You only have 30 amps to play with.
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A SmartPlug shore power inlet conversion is much better designed and safer than the 70 year old standard twist lock design. Per code, boat wiring must be tinned stranded wire. The orange SmartPlug cable is the only one that meets that standard (and expensive). An inlet thermostat shuts off power if it overheats.

https://smartplug.com/ smartplug cable.jpg

We added a 10yr smoke detector and fire extinguisher to the door inside the shore power inlet cabinet, which is where our fire started before we switched. You can reach an (added) grab handle from anywhere on the cabin floor. The Kidde Model 210 holds 4# (vs 2.5#) if you fit it in. MFGR date is stamped on the bottom. It's good practice to weigh and record each season, tip it (so chemicals don't get caked), and replace it every 12 years or sooner.
20260224_084218 - Copy.jpgkidde 210.jpg

Although there are much more elegant choices, we like Velcro wrapping tape to hold up the sunbrella window coverings, which are washable and last 10 years or more. 20260224_084529 - Copy.jpg


We like a 3inch closed cell foam topper for the berth and replace it every 3 seasons. There's plenty of room to add clear plastic stackable containers (with lables).
This continuous-on LED clock runs for a year on four AA batteries (longer if you take them out between Adventures).

This 10 year berth CO detector also shows the temperature when you press the bar (we like 62 degrees).

We're very glad we chose to repower with the same (Yamaha F150's with Helmsman EX Group 2...no AP or joystick. If you choose the AP, it's all 100% made and warranted by Yamaha so you don't have different makers pointing fingers at each other for each component in an autopilot.

We like to Velcro cards at the helm for the phonetic alphabet, anchor rode color tie marker depth tags, MMSI and Registration numbers, Sea TowTow Boat US, insurance and the Red-Green Popsicle Stick Nav Aid reminder (it really does help). helm cards 1.jpghelm cards 2.jpg

We spent ten years resisting replacing the blackwater system with an Airhead until we did last year. Now we'd never go back! Absolutely zero smell, ever and no more pump outs ever again!

More to come on days it's too cold to be at the pool.
John
 

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Question regarding your Phifertex panels, if you’d be so kind: I looked at some photos of inside vs outside, but they were during the daytime. In our home we have linen sheer drapes to block sunlight in certain rooms, which makes it almost impossible to see inside from outside while only minimally reducing visibility to the outside. However at night time, when the light source is on the interior, it flips and we cannot see out but everyone out can see inside with great clarity. Do those panels work similarly? If you’re at a marina in the cockpit, all zipped up with a light on, unable to see out, does everyone around you have a clear shot in, like the sheer linens?

Thank you!
 
Question regarding your Phifertex panels, if you’d be so kind: I looked at some photos of inside vs outside, but they were during the daytime. In our home we have linen sheer drapes to block sunlight in certain rooms, which makes it almost impossible to see inside from outside while only minimally reducing visibility to the outside. However at night time, when the light source is on the interior, it flips and we cannot see out but everyone out can see inside with great clarity. Do those panels work similarly? If you’re at a marina in the cockpit, all zipped up with a light on, unable to see out, does everyone around you have a clear shot in, like the sheer linens?

Thank you!
I found this page with an embedded window showing day/night on Phifertex Plus (92.5% shade vs 70% for regular Phifertex), so can take some guesses as to the 70%. Pros and Cons for blow-through ventilation and the ability to tight-roll-- and I certainly understand the appeal.

 
Excellent post; Thank you John.
I wonder about the outside person being able to see inside the Phifertex plus at night when it is dark outside and you have a light on in the cockpit? Do you have a cloth or some blocking material in case this happens?

The alternate to the DECKadence carpet is viny spegitti poll mat from American Floor Mats. The major difference, is the DECKadence seems to be a less stiff or pliabe material (softer), and the backing is like silicon floor 'non skid' mat. I have used the Deckadence in the cockpit, since it comes in wider widths. I used the vinyl pool mat below decks.

I have put an extra 18" long hand hold on both sides of the cabin house and on the front eyebrow, right at the turn to athwarts ships, on most of the C Dorys I have owned. Always, "one hand for the ship, and one hand for yourself". Below decks, there is a cheaper and effective way to add overhead hand holds on both sides of the cabin: I used SS clips which went around 1/2" back 3 strand Dacron line with a short eye splice on each end, and the tight support in the middle. The clips were put under the nut and over the bolt which holds the cabin SS railing which is just outside of the "hat" of the raised part of the Cabin House. (Sorry, my most of my photos are being held hostage by the old C Brat web site.) I 'll see if I can find them when I have more time.

John makes an excellent point--I have had several "less cordination" evens in my my to late 80's years of age. One sustained a bad solft tissue injury in my leg, the I hit my head on solid concrete (not C Dory related) and ended up with a subdural hematoma. I went to the ER, and was followed by a neuro surgeon until the blood clot on the outside of the brain resolved--which took several months. Subdural hematomas can be fatal, and falls often lead to premature deaths.
 
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